The 80's 1FZJ...rebuild or swap out

[TOY350]

I'm sure beaten to death in the 80's forum but want work on the decision making here. The ideas or concerns:

1. Burning at least a quart every 1K miles now. Very small leak, not enough to touch the garage floor in between oil changes. Change oil every 2K or so and wipe it all down. Runs great, no problems and have 163K on the odometer.
2. Do NOT want to change out trans and transfer, too much work and not needed for what I do with it.
3. Want to spool the center diff and add hubs, slight mileage increase maybe and prolong birf life. (not really related but throwing in here anyways!)
4. My options that I am considering: Rebuild, swap in Toyota V8 or Chevy V8 (nothing late model).
5. I don't tow with it other than my military soon to be tent trailer, long trips we use the 4Runner and I average about 5K miles a year on the 80. It's my around town daily and wheeling/camping rig. I've got about $20K in it and if lucky could pull $10K out of it but have no desire to ever get rid of it since it does everything I need it to and I know it very well. That being said I don't want to dump much more $$$ in it either.
6. I doubt with my work schedule that I have the time to do it all myself and down time with it is bad since it is my daily and we both need a vehicle.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

A343f? I dont think there is any option for adapter to another engine. Maybe usimg the bellhousing off a newer 2 uz powered yota, but not sure at all. Is it burning oil at all? Or just a leak?

Also I ran around with and without my front drive shaft, and hubs unlocked. Noticed no difference in milage.

 

[CDmpc]

1qt every 1k miles is my normal.
FSM states as acceptable.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Leave it alone.... An engine swap is a labor of love, and will almost never pay for it's self except in cool factor!

You're burning $25 of oil a year.... and burning $1500 worth of gas.... Don't worry about it.

Move on to your hub/center diff project.

 

[TOY350]

Yes A343F. Thought Marks of Australia had adapters.

You guys know my OCD problem so even the slightest leak and the oil consumption bothers me. I have to say I'm burning it because the leak doesn't even drip. So are u guys saying just keep on top of the oil and not worry? Definitely the cheapest and easiest solution haha. Rebuild down the road when it gets worse?

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Yes A343F. Thought Marks of Australia had adapters.

You guys know my OCD problem so even the slightest leak and the oil consumption bothers me. I have to say I'm burning it because the leak doesn't even drip. So are u guys saying just keep on top of the oil and not worry? Definitely the cheapest and easiest solution haha. Rebuild down the road when it gets worse?

Yup! Top it off every now and then and your good to go, I would not worry about it. Heck, they even have the low oil level light on the dash to remind you. That's what I did with my 1fz.

 

[jamister1]

Matt, didn't you give your old engine to Ty? What about throwing that one in it? Unless Ty is gonna put it in his Ghia...

So Garett, how do your plugs look? It seems like you'd see some smoke and fouled plugs with that amount of oil burnage. Any chance its going somewhere else like you have a small swimming pool of engine oil hiding on your skid plate? What about just doing valve seals with the head on and see if that solves it? My redneck buddy swapped valve seals in his Toyota once in the middle of my parents field just because he could. Its not hard, just takes time. I'd be more than happy to drink beer and watch you do it at our next meeting.

I'd say go after the little stuff and if that doesn't work then I'd rebuild it stock or swap in another of the same. Any V8 swap is gonna be a $5k endeavor and for what you do it doesn't seem like you'll get any benefits from it other than a smile on your face when you leave 7-11. You already drive it like a 15 year old girl, I don't think you should be allowed to have more power anyway.

 

[TOY350]

Matt, the oil light is my reminder to top it off and usually between 1/2 and 1 quart low at that point. But the more times I just add it seems like it just consumes it quicker and it gets thinner and thinner. I usually add 1 quart and try to change it by the next time which is changing oil every 1.5 to 2K.

Rainbow Brite's Pony, haven't pulled a plug recently but here's what I have done:

8/9/2005 114760 GMW PURCHASED CRUISER
11/2/2005 116041 ATF FLUSH - COOLING FLUSH - OIL CHANGE
11/12/2005 116067 FRONT END SERVICE ALL NEW BEARINGS - REAR DIFF FLUID
1/16/2006 116781 TRANSFER CASE FLUID - MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC
2/11/2006 116851 POWER STEERING FLUSH - CASTROL ATF DEXRON III - LONGFIELD SWAP
4/21/2006 117338 SPARK PLUGS - ROTOR- CAP
4/25/2006 117347 AIR FILTER WASHABLE
8/16/2006 118250 REAR COILS REPLACED
11/13/2006 118918 A/C COMPRESSOR & DRYER REPLACED RECHARGED SYSTEM
11/14/2006 118926 ADD 1 QT. TOYOTA MOTOR OIL 10-30
1/21/2007 119485 OIL CHANGE CASTROL SYN BLEND 10-30 - AIR FILTER CLEAN 1ST
1/21/2007 119485 LUBE U-JOINTS DRIVESHAFTS - REPLACE INTAKE HOSE
5/6/2007 120000 LANDTANK CASTER CORRECTION PLATES INSTALLED
5/20/2007 120050 TIRE ROTATION
7/10/2007 121000 LANDTANK MAF INSTALLED
9/8/2007 121603 FRONT PADS REPLACED
9/14/2007 121700 STARTER REBUILT
12/22/2007 122000 1 QT. OIL ADDED
1/27/2008 123035 OIL CHANGE CASTROL SYN BLEND 10-30 - WINDOW CHANNELS
3/13/2008 123468 CRANK SEAL - OIL PUMP GASKET - BLUE HUB FAN CLUTCH - BELTS
4/16/2008 123881 4.88s - REAR PADS - REAR BEARINGS
5/8/2008 124282 REAR SPRINGS REPLACED WITH "J" SPRINGS
6/1/2008 124581 GEAR OIL CHANGED W/ SYNTHETIC
6/5/2008 124598 SLEE FRONT DRIVESHAFT
6/19/2008 125350 RUBICON RUN
6/23/2008 125765 ROTATE TIRES BALANCE ALL 4
7/23/2008 126360 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
8/27/2008 127011 AIR FILTER WASHABLE 2ND WASH
10/18/2008 127468 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 SYN BLEND
1/30/2009 128555 FUEL INJECTORS CLEANED - FUEL REGULATOR & FILTER - EGR MODULATOR
2/3/2009 128630 PCV VALVE AND LINES REPLACED
2/10/2009 128791 315/75-16 BFG KM2 TIRES INSTALLED
3/26/2009 130000 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED - TOPPED OFF BRAKE FLUID
5/10/2009 131020 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 MOBIL 1 HIGH MILEAGE
7/6/2009 132353 STOCK MAF PLACED BACK IN
7/7/2009 132366 LUBED DRIVESHAFTS - ADDED 150 PUMPS TO KNUCKLES
8/22/2009 133443 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
11/10/2009 134840 TIRE ROTATION & BALANCE
11/21/2009 135002 FRONT: DBA ROTORS - 100 SERIES PADS - WHEEL BEARING REPACK
11/23/2009 135026 BRAKE FLUID FLUSH
11/27/2009 135066 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 MOBIL 1
12/2/2009 135155 ALTERNATOR SWAP TO SEQUOIA
12/4/2009 135182 DUAL BATTERY SETUP
3/13/2010 137146 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
4/8/2010 137937 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
4/30/2010 138383 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
6/20/2010 139579 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 MOBIL 1 HIGH MILEAGE
8/6/2010 141970 1.5 QUARTS OIL ADDED
9/5/2010 143120 1 QT. OIL ADDED
10/16/2010 144354 1 QT. OIL ADDED
12/14/2010 144897 1.5 QT. OIL ADDED
4/14/2011 145149 LONGS/FRONT DRIVELINE REBUILT - FRONT DIFF FLUID - REAR DRIVELINE LUBED
6/1/2011 145227 A/C BELT REPLACED
7/29/2011 145626 .75 QT. OIL ADDED
10/9/2011 146912 1.25 QT. OIL ADDED
10/31/2011 147198 VALVE COVER GASKET & SPARK PLUG SEALS - CLEANED AIR FILTER - 1" FT SPACERS
11/8/2011 147198 RADITOR REPLACED - NEW COOLANT - OIL & FILTER 5W-30 MOBILE 1 HIGH MILEAGE
3/11/2012 148200 NEW REAR ROTORS AND PADS
3/21/2012 148448 1 QT. OIL ADDED
6/24/2012 150140 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 CASTROL SYN BLEND HIGH MILEAGE
9/1/2012 151647 1 QT. OIL ADDED
11/1/2012 152597 1.5 QT. OIL ADDED
12/11/2012 154049 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 MOBIL SUPER HIGH MILEAGE
2/18/2013 155786 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 MOBIL SUPER HIGH MILEAGE
4/29/2013 157182 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 MOBIL SUPER HIGH MILEAGE
5/4/2013 157263 ROTATE TIRES
7/1/2013 158650 .5 QT. OIL ADDED
8/1/2013 158837 .5 QT. OIL ADDED
9/4/2013 159142 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 MOBIL
12/25/2013 160339 ADD 1 QT. OIL
3/14/2014 160976 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 MOBIL SUPER HIGH MILEAGE
7/14/2014 162223 OIL & FILTER CHANGE 5W-30 MOBIL SUPER HIGH MILEAGE LUBE DRIVELINES 50 PUMPS BIRFS
7/21/2014 162284 315/75-16 GOODYEAR MTR
7/29/2014 162633 BLACK FAN CLUTCH MOD 20K/30K OIL
7/31/2014 162646 CHANGED RADIATOR CAP
8/22/2014 163256 OIL NO FILTER CHANGE 10W-30 MOBILE SUPER HIGH MILEAGE 7 QTS
9/2/2014 163360 OPTIMA 27F MAIN BATTERY INSTALLED
10/18/2014 163918 ADD 1 QT. OIL 10-30
11/23/2014 164383 ADD 1 QT. OIL 10-30
1/4/2015 165101 OIL & FILTER CHANGE ROTELLA T6 5W-40 SYNTHETIC
6/2/2015 166408 ADD 1 QT. OIL
6/22/2015 166732 OIL & FILTER CHANGE ROTELLA T 15W-40
7/27/2015 166822 TOP OFF BRAKE FLUID
9/15/2015 167856 FRONT ROTORS TURNED/ 1/2 QUART OIL ADDED
11/13/2015 168537 OIL & FILTER CHANGE ROTELLA T 15W-40

Enough reading haha? But ya, I could tackle some small things to try and track it down. I wondering if I'm getting blow by and fuel is thinning the oil.

 

[gnob]

Wordz words words wordZ

Personally i think jared hit the nail on the head.
I qt in 1k is nothing. My black 86 burnt a quart per tank of gas for over 100k miles..
Fix the oil leak.

Gratuitous use of THC does wonders for OCD

And just for the record. Trying to do valve seals over the fender of an Fzj 80 sitting in a field is not going to happen ever. If it does, call me, i need a place to plan my next campout.

 

[Kief]

I would guess valve guide seals, a compression check with good results would narrow it down. I would think all of the rubber seals in that motor are baked crispy, valve guide seals especially, then the spark plug tube seals and so on. I've seen you drive and you don't baby it. I used Rotella T in my diesel and won't again, my oil pressure gauge scared me, Valvoline Blue/Cummins was the best bang for the buck, Chevron Delo HD and rotella synthetic was ranked high in a test I found..

My thought is Repair or refresh, I bet the block and pistons are fine. My oil starved IFZ had 2 cracked pistons but the crank and main bearings were fine and the head was in great shape. I drove it for several years before the piston slap/rod knock was excessive.
Conversion? I'd wait until Cummins sells some of their crate motors but you'd have to like diesels, Keeping the 80 modern with a conversion is tricky and paying someone to do it would be $$$$$.
Now if your tranny was bad too then yeah, I'd be thinking about a drivetrain swap..

I think you've been way to fastidious and there isn't any gunk in that thing to plug up the gaps!

 

[jamister1]

And just for the record. Trying to do valve seals over the fender of an Fzj 80 sitting in a field is not going to happen ever. If it does, call me, i need a place to plan my next campout.

LOL! I wanna see Garett at least try! Maybe Ty can help with his crescent wrench!

Garett, you can slow down on oil changes, its burning it fast enough its always fresh! Some of your oil changes are within 1500 miles of each other, 6-9 months in between isn't gonna make oil go bad.

It looks like it had an oil consumption problem from very low mileage. My 2f in the FJ60 doesn't go through oil as bad and it leaks outta the front and rear of the engine much less what's getting past the rings and valve seals. Hit a momentous occasion on the way to picking up a kid tonight. Granted the engine supposedly has 125k on it, although everything else that guy told me is wrong too so I don't really have much faith in that. Maybe you should sell the 80 and buy a 60! Although then you'd have to use a clutch and I'm not confident your old man body can handle that, might break a hip or something from pressing too hard.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I replaced the valve seals in GB without pulling the head.... it was a total pain, I had to build a tool to compress the valve springs from above. Still not as bad as pulling the head... Plus it worked! (I only did it to pass smog...)

 

[TOY350]

What about it thinning out as I said. Once I add a quart then the next quart needed is sooner and so on and it's thin when I drain it. CamoJ was following me the other day and said when I started it up there was a good puff of blue smoke, I haven't verified but will.

And Jesse, I'm gonna pee in your beer mug.

 

[Kief]

Hmmm, if it is truly thinning I would suspect fuel from an injector leaking which will also cause oil to burn quite nicely and isn't so good for your cylinder walls. I found a dangerous way to test your own injectors- ask me sometime if you're curious- I'm sure there is a better way. You could also send a sample of oil out for testing.

 

[CDmpc]

I replaced the valve seals in GB without pulling the head.... it was a total pain, I had to build a tool to compress the valve springs from above. Still not as bad as pulling the head... Plus it worked! (I only did it to pass smog...)

Dude. Need. This tool!

 

[gnob]

This looks decent.



http://m.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4573

 

[jamister1]

I think I have that tool if anyone needs to borrow it.

 

[CDmpc]

I think I have that tool if anyone needs to borrow it.

Like??? Lol. I need to figure out if this is something I actually want to spend a day doing.

 

[Kief]

Hmmm, get rid of the car and the drive train would be sweet in an 80!