terminal repair, crimp pins

[Malleus]

These are the male terminals of the size you're looking for. You'll have to a) search the catalog for the females, or b) call Ballenger. They're really helpful.

Photo of the crimper sucks, but the catalog page shows you what you need.

Highly recommend Ballenger.

HTH

 

[suprarx7nut]

Great information. So for the tyco crimper, what kind of die is good for this application? I tried to look but overwhelmed with the variety of dies available for so many application.

Will this crimper work? If not, can I use the appropriate die for it? Thanks.

58448-2 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Tools | DigiKey

That's the style crimper I was referring to, yes. For the dies, I don't know. They are VERY specific per terminal. If you can get a hold of the TE datasheet for that style terminal, it should list the die somewhere. It's a goose chase though, for sure. They provide a ton of info on those datasheets.

The die that works for the 040III terminals may not work for any other style. The real TE dies are very specific. They have features to set the wire insulation location, terminal shape, etc...

I was able to find a Pro-Crimper at one point that came with the 090III die bundled together, but that was years ago. Not sure if they have a similar offering for the 040III or any other relevant dies to the Cruiser.

Try Ballenger motorsports. They carry the OEM Sumitomo terminals and some of the connector housings too.
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics
Home » Shop » Tools » Crimp & Strip » Standard » Crimper for Weather-Pack ( Weatherpack ) and Metri-Pack ( Metripack ) 150, 280, 480 and 630 for 24-14AWG

I just bought a bag of 100 terminals and this crimper. Worked like in the movies!

These are the male terminals of the size you're looking for. You'll have to a) search the catalog for the females, or b) call Ballenger. They're really helpful.View attachment 1609017

Photo of the crimper sucks, but the catalog page shows you what you need.

Highly recommend Ballenger.

HTH

Let us know how that goes! That looks similar to my tool and it's a non-TE style one (although that Ballenger one is parallel, which is good). When I used mine it worked, but did not crimp the terminal into the exact right shape, forcing some post-crimp rework on all the ECU terminals I did. It got real old after the first dozen or so.

I should post some pics to show what I mean. The TE crimper with the right die results in a perfect, rounded-square terminal base and slides perfectly into the connectors. The generic crimpers like mine (and I assume the Ballenger one) leave the base of the terminal oval and potentially too wide to fit in the connector easily. Additionally, the TE dies have a stop blade built into the tool so your insulation is perfectly located on every crimp. It's also ratcheted so you get the perfect crimp force every time if setup properly.

 

[Malleus]

I used this setup to make a harness connector for the Pioneer AVIC 5201NEX I installed in my '94 last week. No problems at all.

 

[Malleus]

found other toyota people that say this crimp is good for 82998-1260 I'm going to find out.
TE Connectivity terminals 316837-1 (gold tipped, for medium size 1.0III terminals)

edit, so the same crimp is 316837 -1 without the gold, lol, like we need that, my bad.


Terminal Size 0.64III
Toyota Pigtail Part No. 82998-12870
TE Connectivity Terminals 1674311-2


Terminal Size 1.0III
Toyota Pigtail Part No. 82998-12690
TE Connectivity terminal 316837-1



Toyota Pigtail Part No. 82998-12870 (for small 0.64III terminals)
Toyota Pigtail Part No. 82998-12690 (for medium size 1.0III terminals)
TE Connectivity terminals 1674311-2 (for small 0.64III terminals)
TE Connectivity terminals 316837-1 ( for medium size 1.0III terminals)


Terminal Size 0.64III
Toyota Pigtail Part No. 82998-12870 (gold tipped)
TE Connectivity terminal 1674311-1 (gold tipped)

The (male) terminal you want is the "A" dimension, from the harness repair manual, which is the 6.3 (II) terminal. These are Sumitomo 16-22 gauge brass, Ballenger part number CONN-00115. They fit exactly into the housing (the rear crimp is in an open area, so it's not a problem; it's the front crimp that locates and locks the terminal in the housing). You can use a pick or small precision screwdriver to remove the old terminal (I've used both) but the correct tool is the way to go, especially if you're doing more than a couple.

Joey has the tool:
Connector Pin Tool-basic

The crimper I got from Ballenger doesn't completely grab the insulation flat, but the terminal is crimped in two locations, one at the bare conductors and one at the back on the insulation. You have to crimp twice, once for the conductors (which the crimper does well) and once at the back for the insulation and conductors. There are three formed dies on the crimper and two of them are for this terminal.

The crimper does an acceptable job, but uses a generic formed die, instead of the replaceable ones the expensive models use. The difference is $300 and about 15 seconds of your time with a pair of precision pliers. I don't know about you, but 15 seconds of my time isn't worth $300. As I said, I would have left the terminals as crimped, but my OCD wouldn't let me. I was also using 22 gauge wire with really thin insulation. A larger gauge wire or a wire with just a touch more insulation would have resulted in a perfect fit, I think.

HTH

 

[jerryb]

these are correct for the 82998-1260. worked like a charm, even if I only had 20gauge wire. I wish i would have had 22.
I also wish I would have just ordered the repair pigtail wires. Way less time and effort. Took an entire day to take apart and make up three connectors.