Tech Questions Here (9 Viewers)

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Bang Bang said:
Thanks for all the responses. And thanks to Larry for clarifying the drive train and diff gears. I was going to ask Brian how he knew the t-case was a 3 speed but now I know. That actually helps as the adapter that Theo (seller) has on the SM465 is for a 3 speed case. After doing a bit more research and speaking with Theo, if he can get it to me for reasonable shipping, I think that is the way I am going to go. I read through a ton of threads last night and for the price (he is only asking $350 for the tranny and adapter) it seems like a good road to take. He rebuilt the 465 and put only 1000 miles on it before swapping to the NV4500. Seems like it should last for quite some time now that it's rebuilt. Also, the only real negative I could find about the 465 is that it's freakin' heavy. Anyone have any actual experience with them good or bad?
As for the front locker, what is a selectable locker? Is that what ARB is? I know it's an air locker but are there any other alternatives? I don't want the Ausie / Lockrite type as I do street drive it some and don't want to be constantly fighting it. What about and LSD like Sean has? What's the difference?
And as for the Orion, I would love to go that routebut I don't want to have to take out a home equity loan to fund my habit..... :bang:
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I have no experience on tranny swaps but read plenty folks doing 420/465/4500 swaps. I did toy with the idea of a H55 for a 5th gear on the HWY and has lower 1st gear but never needed it I never did much HWY riding ;)

Selectable as in you can engage or disengage at will via air/electric source.

ARB is the only other option for selectable locker in the factory diffs that I know of, Heeps have the OX lockers a cable actuated unit that would be cool if they ever offered it for Toyotas. They did have that option in the 70 series we didn't get :( Sean runs an Auburn LSD good manners on the street and added traction on the trail but not a true locker it limits wheel spin opposite the torque wheel when sensing wheel spin. They are good units and work well but not a true 50/50 locker more of a 70/30 ratio on torgue to the wheels. They seem to work well for Sean he likes them.

Leading Manufacturer of Traction Enchancing Differentials & Planetary Drives - Auburn Gear
 
Bang Bang said:
Thanks for all the responses. And thanks to Larry for clarifying the drive train and diff gears. I was going to ask Brian how he knew the t-case was a 3 speed but now I know. That actually helps as the adapter that Theo (seller) has on the SM465 is for a 3 speed case. After doing a bit more research and speaking with Theo, if he can get it to me for reasonable shipping, I think that is the way I am going to go. I read through a ton of threads last night and for the price (he is only asking $350 for the tranny and adapter) it seems like a good road to take. He rebuilt the 465 and put only 1000 miles on it before swapping to the NV4500. Seems like it should last for quite some time now that it's rebuilt. Also, the only real negative I could find about the 465 is that it's freakin' heavy. Anyone have any actual experience with them good or bad?
As for the front locker, what is a selectable locker? Is that what ARB is? I know it's an air locker but are there any other alternatives? I don't want the Ausie / Lockrite type as I do street drive it some and don't want to be constantly fighting it. What about ad LSD like Sean has? What's the difference?
And as for the Orion, I would love to go that route but I don't want to have to take out a home equity loan to fund my habit..... :bang:
Click to expand...

Mike, I think I can offer some insight. I run an sm465 in my rig and love it. The first gear ratio is about 6.5 to 1 and that is considerably lower than your stock gearing. Your crawl ratio in low range first gear would be around 61:1 which is not too bad depending on your tire size. To get any lower (reasonably) the Orion would be your next best choice. (and a good choice if you can raise the coin)

As for the locker... I just don't get why so many people are opposed to the auto-lockers up front? I have run them for years with no problems (one exception was a used unit that I bought on line that was junk). Do you plan to drive your 40 on the street with the front drive engaged? Doubt it here in the south. With your truck in rwd and your front hubs unlocked you won't even know it's there. They do make it a little harder to steer offroad at times but that is a small trade off for the traction advantage, price, and ease of install. Sure, an ARB is much better but it also costs 4-5 time as much. Just my $.02
 
Marlin Transfer Case HELP!!

I broke my input shaft on my transfer case. My transfer case was built by Marlin Crawlers in 1996 (stamped Marlin Crawler #014) using 3.64:1 gears.....I called Marlin today and they no longer make that gear so I :

1. Need to find a input shaft that someone has and is willing to sell

2. Find an alternative input shaft what will work with my transfer case without having to change the gears

3. Change the gearing and get a new input shaft. (any suggestions on what gearing ratio I should go with would be appreciated). I am currently have a SM420 transmission with the Advanced Adapter.


Any info would be greatly appreciated...
shaft 10 inch.jpg
shaft male female.jpg
t case.jpg
 
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What t case?
I like the 4.7 in my mini truck case.
Can the gear be pressed off and just replace the shaft?
 
John Stw said:
What t case?
I like the 4.7 in my mini truck case.
Can the gear be pressed off and just replace the shaft?
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Yes, all I need is the input shaft (clean break). My transfer case was built by Marlin (1996) and when I called them they acted like I was from MARS and that I would have to change all of my gears becuase the 3.64:1 input shaft was no longer available??
 
cruiserfien said:
Yes, all I need is the input shaft (clean break). My transfer case was built by Marlin (1996) and when I called them they acted like I was from MARS and that I would have to change all of my gears becuase the 3.64:1 input shaft was no longer available??
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besides being a MC what model T case is it?
 
lostinafog said:
besides being a MC what model T case is it?
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Not sure, I am heading to the shop in the morning to inspect it. I may have been incorrect as I was looking thru my file and it appears that it may be a Toyota Transfer Case with Marlin Gears and not a Marlin Toybox. I will inspect and take pictures in the morning to upload and see if I can get some help finding what I need--Thanks...
 
wanabecruisen said:
Mike, I think I can offer some insight. I run an sm465 in my rig and love it. The first gear ratio is about 6.5 to 1 and that is considerably lower than your stock gearing. Your crawl ratio in low range first gear would be around 61:1 which is not too bad depending on your tire size. To get any lower (reasonably) the Orion would be your next best choice. (and a good choice if you can raise the coin)

As for the locker... I just don't get why so many people are opposed to the auto-lockers up front? I have run them for years with no problems (one exception was a used unit that I bought on line that was junk). Do you plan to drive your 40 on the street with the front drive engaged? Doubt it here in the south. With your truck in rwd and your front hubs unlocked you won't even know it's there. They do make it a little harder to steer offroad at times but that is a small trade off for the traction advantage, price, and ease of install. Sure, an ARB is much better but it also costs 4-5 time as much. Just my $.02
Click to expand...

Good feedback thanks for sharing Daryl I always heard the auto-lockers were a nightmare to steer when engaged Mike Theriot had put Aussies in the front and rear of his 78 and didn't like it. I'd like to drive a rig with one to see I'm bringing my 74 down from Tennessee in December to start working on it for next year and was going to weld the rear and would consider an Aussie in the front. Would be strictly a trail rig so no need for any street manners :D
 
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Daryl, thanks for the thoughts. I, like Larry, have heard from people that have an auto locker up front and that it's no fun to drive, especially on the street.
As for the sm465, I had to pass on it but I do appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
 
Volunteer said:
Good feedback thanks for sharing Daryl I always heard the auto-lockers were a nightmare to steer when engaged Mike Theriot had put Aussies in the front and rear of his 78 and didn't like it. I'd like to drive a rig with one to see I'm bringing my 74 down from Tennessee in December to start working on it for next year and was going to weld the rear and would consider an Aussie in the front. Would be strictly a trail rig so no need for any street manners :D
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I drove Mikes old 40 and you were lucky if you could even get it to go straight while locked for any distance. It now has ARB's front and rear, fun truck to drive. Mike did a great job building that thing.
 
ARB's are great if you can swing the coin. Auto lockers in the front on the street will only impact driving if your hubs are locked(and why would they be in the South?). Auto lockers do make steering a little harder at times on the trail. It's all a trade off. Several of my buds run 40's with auto lockers up front and I'm sure they would let you take one for a spin. I ran one up front for years but went full Detroit when I went full hydro.
 
Hose to no where... or from no where.

Found hose attached to firewall on passage side going no where. Searched and only place I could find to attach hose was the distributor. Hoping for some help: What is this hose attached to (firewall side)? Depending on answer, what does it do?
Hose_01.jpg

Hose_02.jpg
Hose_01.jpg
Hose_02.jpg
 
FatChance78 said:
Found hose attached to firewall on passage side going no where. Searched and only place I could find to attach hose was the distributor. Hoping for some help: What is this hose attached to (firewall side)? Depending on answer, what does it do?
<img src="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=569799"/>

<img src="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=569800"/>
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Vent drain tube it suppose to be open :)
 
FatChance78 said:
Thanks LL.
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:) sorry I missed the call bud I was on the move and said I'd call when ever I quit running but I never did and just got in from dinner. Will touch base with you tomorrow.
 
It's all that BS draining when you go over that big rock.
 
FatChance78 said:
I did; just took it off for the picture. What is draining? Should I have an opening in the diff cover?
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It drains the cowl vent. I had water leaking on the floor of my 70 model one time and under the dash I was missing the hose that went from the vent drain out through that hose in the firewall.

112-01A-S-big.jpg


You should not have an opening in your diff cover thats not good, it must be at the top or you'd have a messy leaking diff cover.
 
Volunteer said:
It drains the cowl vent. I had water leaking on the floor of my 70 model one time and under the dash I was missing the hose that went from the vent drain out through that hose in the firewall.

112-01A-S-big.jpg


You should not have an opening in your diff cover thats not good, it must be at the top or you'd have a messy leaking diff cover.
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sean`s ain`t got no cow vent:grinpimp:
 
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