Does any one have a trick or cleaner/abrasive combination that works best for prepping a block for a head gasket?
Tech Questions Here (2 Viewers)
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elbow grease air scraper elbow grease razor blades elbow grease carb cleaner careful use of a powered wire brush elbow grease compressed air clean lint free rags not sure I mentioned a lot of elbow grease
Oh! lube for elbow
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Paul is always to the rescue......
Boy that's not what I wanted to here. I spent 4 hours yesterday using a razor blade, scotch brite, brake clean and a lot of elbow grease and it's no where near where it needs to be! Thanks Paul I think I need more lube!
Boy I need more lube!
sorry bout dat
truth hurts
everyone conveniently forget bout all the clean up work that is required to do it right. ya hear OH! I did that in5 hr 
it`s like the PHH can do that in less that an hour---------- yea that just tells me U as the person makin the statement are delusional,full of it, can`t tell time or ain`t ever done one.
soldier through the mind numbing chore when ya done the finished product always pays the dividend many times over for dong it right
yes it takes a lot of lube
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Boy that's not what I wanted to here. I spent 4 hours yesterday using a razor blade, scotch brite, brake clean and a lot of elbow grease and it's no where near where it needs to be! Thanks Paul I think I need more lube!
Air grinder turned down with the 3M circular scuffing discs and some carb cleaner worked well for me, not the sanding discs they scratch the surface to much
Anyone tried that airline stripper? I have heard that stuff works wonders, but have never seen it in action.
no prop would but how ya gona clean it up
don`t think would like that stuff in the cylinders & on the rings
Good point. Just wondered if it could be used. I didn't know how easy it would be to manage.
That works great used my buddies serveral times and it works. Just throws debris around a bit more than a razor.
Yet, when you use a razor, it is the razor that gets thrown around a lot more!
i know snap on makes a pad for that it works great its a green disk, i can get the name and pic today
Quote:
Originally Posted by raevenzero
Here you go my friend.
Long story short.....
Don't worry about camber with a solid axle (unless it is bent, lol)
Tow in will give you better tracking and help with tire wear
Caster will keep your wheels tracking forward. On a toyota, your knuckles need to be (don't quote me) 1-3 degrees positive (toward the cab). If you go too far negative your positive, your wheels will wobble like a shopping cart.
I have a question. Where do you measure for caster at? I mean where could I put my angle finder on what part of my front axle to find this measurment? Thanks
Got an update.Got it worked out. With big bias ply tires that will not balance, worn spring bushings , and no type of track bar I have been having some trouble with “death wobble” for a while. I swapped out to some street friendly radial tires and have no trouble with the truck, but put on the 34” LBT’s or the 36” IROKS and everything starts shaking at 25 mph (not fun and scary as hell).
Well made some time to address this and changed out all the old bushings ( only five years old ) on the springs front and rear along with the frame bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings with some four degrees steel shims (single hole that bolts to the spring pack, not the slotted type) Difficult to find a place to check the degree of the knuckles but for the time it’s cured. About to put the 34” on because in just a little time you can see the IROKS are wearing down.
Originally Posted by raevenzero
Here you go my friend.
Long story short.....
Don't worry about camber with a solid axle (unless it is bent, lol)
Tow in will give you better tracking and help with tire wear
Caster will keep your wheels tracking forward. On a toyota, your knuckles need to be (don't quote me) 1-3 degrees positive (toward the cab). If you go too far negative your positive, your wheels will wobble like a shopping cart.
I have a question. Where do you measure for caster at? I mean where could I put my angle finder on what part of my front axle to find this measurment? Thanks
Got an update.Got it worked out. With big bias ply tires that will not balance, worn spring bushings , and no type of track bar I have been having some trouble with “death wobble” for a while. I swapped out to some street friendly radial tires and have no trouble with the truck, but put on the 34” LBT’s or the 36” IROKS and everything starts shaking at 25 mph (not fun and scary as hell).
Well made some time to address this and changed out all the old bushings ( only five years old ) on the springs front and rear along with the frame bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings with some four degrees steel shims (single hole that bolts to the spring pack, not the slotted type) Difficult to find a place to check the degree of the knuckles but for the time it’s cured. About to put the 34” on because in just a little time you can see the IROKS are wearing down.
Having too much play in those bushings can definitely set the wobble in motion. I found that the caster shims helped me a lot. I still get a tiny bit of vibration that smooths out quickly. However, the tiny vibration I get at lower speeds is nothing compared to the death wobble I used to get and may be due to the balancing beads in the tires not working at lower speeds or possibly due to differences in tire pressure (still haven't changed that pesky valve stem).
Any chance you know what helped the most bushings or shims?
Got that motor built yet?
Got that motor built yet?
I would have to say the shims. The bushings I had in there were not chewed up , yet I replace all of them while I was at it so I would not have to disassemble the truck a week later.
But I can say the biggest contributing factor is the tires. Those balloons tires .
Motor nope not yet haven't touched it, Hope to my next week off call . It was in my best interest to work on the honey do list at home instead of the 4Runner :whoops: this time
Good luck bud, hope things work out and we can ride in Feb.
any body got a link to show the fluid levels on the buggy, like tcase and tranny , i pored 2 qrts in the tcase but cant get the plug off to check it , i know more than that came out when itook it off , ( from the tcase and tranny )
4qts trans, 2qts Tcase
rgr thanks !