Thanks Larry.
I had a friend that was interested in the setup. I see, drive, and maintain Mike's old rig for my dad but can't identify non OEM parts worth a damn.
Tech Questions Here (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Volunteer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks Larry.
I had a friend that was interested in the setup. I see, drive, and maintain Mike's old rig for my dad but can't identify non OEM parts worth a damn.
- Thread starter
- #1,602
Thanks Larry.
Yea especially in Mike's case where he kept swapping things out to try and find the optimal settings for the 2F. He had a thread a few years ago I'lll try to find that may help.
Yea especially in Mike's case where he kept swapping things out to try and find the optimal settings for the 2F. He had a thread a few years ago I'lll try to find that may help.
What ever he did is still working great. The only problem with that truck since my dad bought it was the aftermarket dizzy exploded, can't blame Mr. Toyoda for that one.
Thanks again, I'll look for that thread too.
Buying a welding machine, for the guys that have done much metal work before, what do you think is a better tool for cutting tubing?
The rig I am buying has a torch included but that will just produce rough cuts, and only as straight as I can hold the torch.
I have a Harborfreight abrasive chop saw, but they thing is very underwhelming and am not sure if a better brand chopsaw would do much better. when you break it down it is just a big grinder spinning a disk and I dont know if a 200 dollar spiny disk is any better than my 70 dollar spinny disk.. Plus I fing that it cuts in more of a V than a straight vertical cut, not much, mayby like 1/16 difference from the top of the cut to the bottom to the top. Plus cutting something like square tubing, it barely cuts through horisontal sections, flys through vertical but on flat parts where it has to act on more surface area it is just a dog. just time estimate, it takes about 3 min to get through the top of a 2X2X1/4 in piece of square tubing, 1 min to cut through the sides, and then when I hit the bottom another 3-4 min. I just dont think 8 min for a single cut is reasonable.
last option is a Band saw, I dont own one, I have used some of the smaller hand held ones at work and it seemed to do VERY well. I am thinking a bench mounted one would be the da s***. But even a harborfreight chineese bandsaw is like 300 dollars. and the nicer ones that can turn like a mitersaw seem to start around the 700 dollar mark.
More or less I just want to hear what yall have used, and what works best for yall. is the precision and speed of the bandsaw worth it?
The rig I am buying has a torch included but that will just produce rough cuts, and only as straight as I can hold the torch.
I have a Harborfreight abrasive chop saw, but they thing is very underwhelming and am not sure if a better brand chopsaw would do much better. when you break it down it is just a big grinder spinning a disk and I dont know if a 200 dollar spiny disk is any better than my 70 dollar spinny disk.. Plus I fing that it cuts in more of a V than a straight vertical cut, not much, mayby like 1/16 difference from the top of the cut to the bottom to the top. Plus cutting something like square tubing, it barely cuts through horisontal sections, flys through vertical but on flat parts where it has to act on more surface area it is just a dog. just time estimate, it takes about 3 min to get through the top of a 2X2X1/4 in piece of square tubing, 1 min to cut through the sides, and then when I hit the bottom another 3-4 min. I just dont think 8 min for a single cut is reasonable.
last option is a Band saw, I dont own one, I have used some of the smaller hand held ones at work and it seemed to do VERY well. I am thinking a bench mounted one would be the da s***. But even a harborfreight chineese bandsaw is like 300 dollars. and the nicer ones that can turn like a mitersaw seem to start around the 700 dollar mark.
More or less I just want to hear what yall have used, and what works best for yall. is the precision and speed of the bandsaw worth it?
Last edited:
My dad has a bandsaw in his shop. It is an el-cheapo and he has had it for at least 10 years. It isn't the fastest thing, but the blade is way past due for a change. The nice thing about it is, it is pretty automated. Just inserted cuttee, and the weight of the saw pushes the blade through. Once through, it kills the power. So, all you have to do is clamp your stock in place, flip a switch and go work on something else. It will be cut when you come back.
On a side note, WE GOT A MILL! We just have to do a little work to it, but imagine the possibilities!
On a side note, WE GOT A MILL! We just have to do a little work to it, but imagine the possibilities!
porta band saw ! like the hand held milwalke , and and other working with ryan w have done lota metal work thats the fastest i think , what kinda rig ya buying lincon big 300 ? are miller bobcat ? oh yean and the chop saw is good but messy , u an get some good norton disk made just for cutting steel , but u loose that little bit ,
An older Miller Big 40 diesel.
![IMG_0420[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/data/attachments/319/319987-3e3ca195a38b03254faa28349a0033ff.jpg "IMG_0420[1].jpg")
way more machine than I need, but it is part of my uncles estate and I will never have a shot at having one again. I figure for what I am buying it for I am getting a decent 15kw generator if nothing else. (edit, make that 5500 watts. the 15 KW is the deluxe modle that I am not thinking this is)
I have thought about a portaband but I like the set it and forget it nature of the bench mounted units.
![IMG_0420[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='800' height='600' viewBox%3D'0 0 800 600'%2F%3E "IMG_0420[1].jpg")
Awesome set up Josh, if they have some extra bottles I could use a set have everthing else except the two fuel bottles. I have used a Habor freight grinder and sawzall for along time, I think I could handle the rough edges of torch if it saves me some grinder time.
yea good rig , seen em alot when i worked for tnt weldng suply , u can get a wire feeder suit case set u to run off it also ,
In need of some help getting the 4Runner titled and put in my name in Louisiana. It was bought out of state in Texas with the title signed over to me but that is not enough for DMV because it is not notarized. I am unable to get in touch with the original owner If anyone can assist please email,pm or call me for the details ,I could really use some help in getting this cleaned up. Thanks everybody.
Ok so my my clutch is going out again, still driveable but will need to be replace soon. I'm on the hunt for one that is withstand the abuse i put it through because stock just isnt cutting it for me. I gave Marlin Crawler a call and they said theirs only meets OEM specs so i would burn it just as fast. Now I'm looking at Centerforce but ive read mixed reviews about them, i saw ACT has a pretty strong clutch but i can find any reviews on them. I'm kinda lost now does anyone know something about these two or of any others i could go with?
- Thread starter
- #1,613
I had the centerforce II in my Taco and had the centerforce I in my 86 and they lasted the time I owned them. ACT makes good clutches as well I used them in my turbo car I raced lasted 8 - 10,000 miles but no where near the same application didn't go with a stronger clutch because I broke the transmission and it was cheaper to replace the clutches than tranny rebuilds
Centerforce Clutches
I was lookin at the CF Dual friction, holds 430ft-lbs of torque thats plenty but like you said it could be to much and ill end up breaking something more expensive, i would rather have the clutch as my weak link but not too weak, i dont want to be changing it every 6 months like ive been doing
- Thread starter
- #1,615
IMO the II is the way to go my 95 was supercharged as well and it held up for 3 years until I sold it
sounds good enough for me
i have the marlin 1200# clutch in mine, i couldnt see how you would be more abusive than i am.
edit: unless you repeatedly drop the hammer at high revs. i dont do that, but do have a habit of "resting" my left foot on the pedal around town.
edit: unless you repeatedly drop the hammer at high revs. i dont do that, but do have a habit of "resting" my left foot on the pedal around town.
looking for a link to the mini truck Bible . any one ? cant seem to find it ?!
got it wheeeewww was starting to freak ! **********Toyota Bible/FAQ 2.0********** - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
How close is Toyota mini's brakeline to 1/4" tubing?
Thinking of using a block valve as line lock. I can get some 1/4" tubing and fittings, but its the tapping into the existing lines that I am unsure of.
Thinking of using a block valve as line lock. I can get some 1/4" tubing and fittings, but its the tapping into the existing lines that I am unsure of.