I knows dat ---------- U own Toyotas
& besides that i type SOOOOOO FAST get ahead of my train
Tech Questions Here (2 Viewers)
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& besides that i type SOOOOOO FAST get ahead of my train
You can buy all or most of your parts at Northshore Toyota. Just tell them you are a member of the tlca and that you get the discount.
Also I think we still have Muson Patout dealership in New Iberia that gives BSLCA discounts as well. You would be very surprised at what you can still buy from the dealer on these old trucks.
This may be a stupid question but here goes. The front hubs are leaking fluid into the rims. I assume it is gear oil. When I removed one of the hubs, it looked like there was the remnants of a gasket that disintegrated when I removed it. The question is: Is there a specific gasket that goes there that can be had at NAPA (or the like) or can I just use some gasket maker? Also, there are bearings in there, correct? How can you tell if they are good, bad or otherwise?
Here is what I see when I remove the hub:
Here is what the remnants of the gasket look like:
Thanks,
You may want to look at these seals instead of the factory Toyota seals ( I know that sound s crazy but I believe it is a better seal)
HD Inner Axle Seal, FJ40-FJ62 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Not gonna say what i think about leaking seals because my logic is probably not sound.
that b as long as it is leaking got lube--- no more leaking no more lube soooo time to refill
that b as long as it is leaking got lube--- no more leaking no more lube soooo time to refill
Partly.
My other thought is that the gear oil leaking keeps the dust and any grit flushed out, also keeps things from rusting or binding up
Partly.
My other thought is that the gear oil leaking keeps the dust and any grit flushed out, also keeps things from rusting or binding up
those are also valid points.
x2
BUT...order 1 or 2 extra. I have a leaking axle now because I broke a birf and didn't have an extra seal when the birf was chaned. I am ordering 3 now so I can keep 2 in my box.
Have a dead battery in the deisel this morning. Any recommendations on long lasting ones since I have to buy two?
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Thanks for the info. Got my seals in a day or 2 ago. I hope to get them in today or tomorrow.
Wish I had a suggestion for you on the batteries. I know nothing about diesels and what would be best.
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I always had good service with the Diehard Gold but the Walmart version of whatever they are in the Sequoia and 80 seem to be holding up better than I would have thought. Both are a couple years old and have been trouble free.
deka gel battire , da bomb
Oreilly`s battery supplier is east penn same as Deka
hp gell battery for 2007 dodge 65EXT AGM $159.99@ 84 MONTH WARRANTY
got to pay 2 play
Last edited:
Oreilly`s battery supplier is east penn same as Deka
hp gell battery for 2007 dodge 65EXT AGM $159.99@ 84 MONTH WARRANTY
got to pay 2 play
or if want a wet battery 65EXTN $85.00@ 84 month 3yr free
a;so made by east penn
kinda hard to pay almost twice the price for gell
Know that suckin feeling still looking for a RUST FREE tailgate for TUC
even if ya come across one down yonder in Costa Rica let me know
Know that suckin feeling still looking for a RUST FREE tailgate for TUC
even if ya come across one down yonder in Costa Rica let me know
I am down in Costa Rica now. What EXACTLY are you looking for. I have two containers leaving for the States in September so I have some room.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
OK, I am pretty good at installing electrical items but I suck at trying to figure things out I didn't do......and trying to read an electrical schematic is sometimes like trying to read greek, another thing I just can't do. 
I need to get the windshield wipers working. I was trying to just check to make sure the motor is good but I get nothing no matter how I try to connect things. I don't have the oem switch and don't have the washer fluid bottle hooked up. Brian said he had checked it a while back and was able to verify that it was working but I can't. Maybe it needs to be changed out but can any of you that understand this stuff explain how the connections should be made here. If I am reading this correctly (probably not), coming off the wiper motor I should ground the WHT/BLK and go to the battery with the other three BLU/WHT, BLU/RED and BLU/BLK just to test it to see if I have power to the motor and that it works, right? It's driving me nuts! Any help is appreciated. Oh, and the blue wire that runs off the bottom of the page goes to the fuse box. Yes, I checked the fuse and it is good.
I need to get the windshield wipers working. I was trying to just check to make sure the motor is good but I get nothing no matter how I try to connect things. I don't have the oem switch and don't have the washer fluid bottle hooked up. Brian said he had checked it a while back and was able to verify that it was working but I can't. Maybe it needs to be changed out but can any of you that understand this stuff explain how the connections should be made here. If I am reading this correctly (probably not), coming off the wiper motor I should ground the WHT/BLK and go to the battery with the other three BLU/WHT, BLU/RED and BLU/BLK just to test it to see if I have power to the motor and that it works, right? It's driving me nuts! Any help is appreciated. Oh, and the blue wire that runs off the bottom of the page goes to the fuse box. Yes, I checked the fuse and it is good.
Now this schematic does not have a lot of detail, but it seems as if you could at least verify that the motor works by going WHT/BLK to ground and BLU/RED to 12v. However, I think that this motor control may also contain a relay that reverses the motor so hooking all of them up will cause conflicting signals. I am not sure about this, but you may try it. Also, isolate the motor from the rest of the system so that you do not accidentally backfeed into something else.