NGK or whatever was stock. I used to buy into the high performance plugs but found not benefits. I would just stick with stock or equivalent.
Tech Questions Here (12 Viewers)
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John i will get back with you on this, its to
cold outside.
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So...what's the easiest way to get the inner axle seals out? I'm trying to do it without gouging the inner surface of the tube but I am a little weary. Ideas? I don't have a seal puller 
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always best to use the correct tool.So...what's the easiest way to get the inner axle seals out? I'm trying to do it without gouging the inner surface of the tube but I am a little weary. Ideas? I don't have a seal puller
but
can try using a pair of vice grips on the lip and a small bar across the face then leverage against the bar. it may deform enough to pull
Well, I am using my vise grip supply to cut off brake lines....but I see where you are coming from. I'll give the method a try.
Another ?, I need that front diff shimmed up properly by the end of the week. COR charges $70 but said it wouldn't be done until after my next trip offshore.
Anybody know of a shadetree mechanic around here that might do it quick and cheap? I need to have it back together by this weekend.
Anybody know of a shadetree mechanic around here that might do it quick and cheap? I need to have it back together by this weekend.
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Thats not a bad price when you consider the average shop rate is $65 an hour. They usually charge a 1 hour min at most shops. You can ask Paul if he can fit you in or try T-Pats B&M uses them for shim/aligments you can price them 233-0075.
Yeah, they just charged me 1hr labor last time. I have all of the shims, etc. I just need it done before this weekend so that I can have the axles together before I go back to work. When I come back from offshore, it is being loaded onto a car dolly and heading up north.
Paul, is that something you would be interested in, or have time to do?
I will call T-Pats and see what they say. I have also heard Ridge Road auto or Hoffpower as well. I called B&M, and they are not interested in doing something where I have already done most of the work.
Paul, is that something you would be interested in, or have time to do?
I will call T-Pats and see what they say. I have also heard Ridge Road auto or Hoffpower as well. I called B&M, and they are not interested in doing something where I have already done most of the work.
I do em but this week is already working into next week won`t get out what have in as is
Looks like it is going back in as is and I will hold out for another day. How long should I go between axle rebuilds anyway? I think I put about 7 or 8k on the truck since the last teardown.
I dont think axle rebuilds are part of scheduled maintenance, are they? I mean as long as they hold oil, and the wheel bearings are tight it should be good I would think. Course then again my axle only does one of those things ver well at all 
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I dont think axle rebuilds are part of scheduled maintenance, are they? I mean as long as they hold oil, and the wheel bearings are tight it should be good I would think. Course then again my axle only does one of those things ver well at all
IMO, if you grease the knuckles regularly and your seals are good and don't leak I would consider it good. I usually repack and service mine when I do the brakes since I'm in there anyway.
If I remember Toyota recommends 30,000 miles.
I was just kidding. I know that it isn't a regular maintenance item...but if you are me, then something always starts leaking, or if you are John and you break a birf on every trip, then it becomes pretty regular. Who knows, I might end up with a different gear set if I end up doing my motor swap.
Opps, thought this was the tech section....Caliper rebuild kit is $7 at O'Reilly. I guess you can't trust everything you get at Pull A Part!
Ok guys, got my front axle back together but ran into a couple of problems.
1. Installed the bigger calipers but they were leaking so I went back with my old ones until I could rebuild the big ones. However, I think the leaking ones let air into the system because I have no brakes now. I've bled at front and rear brakes, at the proportioning valve in the back, and at all of the master cylinder connections with no luck. The pedal still drops to the floor. If you pump a few times fast, it builds pressure and you can hold the pressure with no leaks. If you let go of the pressure, it's back to pedal to the floor. I am leaving the MC connections cracked in hopes that air will travel up. It's all new brake fluid and I am out of ideas. They were perfect before the axle rebuild.
2. The passenger side knuckle stripped where the caliper attaches. I think I am just going to get a tap and a size larger set of bolts. I put them in with a ratchet and they just kept turning. I think maybe I pulled the threads out when I loosened them to remove the caliper.
1. Installed the bigger calipers but they were leaking so I went back with my old ones until I could rebuild the big ones. However, I think the leaking ones let air into the system because I have no brakes now. I've bled at front and rear brakes, at the proportioning valve in the back, and at all of the master cylinder connections with no luck. The pedal still drops to the floor. If you pump a few times fast, it builds pressure and you can hold the pressure with no leaks. If you let go of the pressure, it's back to pedal to the floor. I am leaving the MC connections cracked in hopes that air will travel up. It's all new brake fluid and I am out of ideas. They were perfect before the axle rebuild.
2. The passenger side knuckle stripped where the caliper attaches. I think I am just going to get a tap and a size larger set of bolts. I put them in with a ratchet and they just kept turning. I think maybe I pulled the threads out when I loosened them to remove the caliper.
...and that's where they're leaking.....just my luck