Tech Questions Here (10 Viewers)

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I washed it today and all 4 are leaking but the passenger side tires are VERY SLOW, but still saw bubbles. I think I will take it back to NDT and talk to them about it. Paid almost 200 for mounting so there should be some type of guarantee.
 
I washed it today and all 4 are leaking but the passenger side tires are VERY SLOW, but still saw bubbles. I think I will take it back to NDT and talk to them about it. Paid almost 200 for mounting so there should be some type of guarantee.


give it a try can`t hurt but they are gona tell ya that :steer: on low psi is not covered:)
 
I know that one for sure was leaking before Gilmer. I thought maybe it had a small hole somewhere but today I could definitely tell that they were all leaking around the bead. Soapy water always tells the truth.
 
I think it was a little over $180. They said they would mount them and then then added a special kind of balancing material that is like sand. The added it and tested to see how it would balance and repeated the process until the had just the right amount. It took them a few hours. The tires ride really nice on the road but that doesn't matter if they don't hold air now does it?
 
Cylinder Head

I called North side engine today in Lafayette and I was quoted at like 500 dollars for a complete head job not including parts. The guy I talked to seemed very versed on the F and 2F engine but does 500 dollars seem a little high and if so does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Lafayette area to go to. I mean for 500 dollars I can buy a reconditioned one from SOR.

Thanks,
Cruzersoul
 
Ran a screw driver around the bead protectors and a bunch of red dirt came out. Even found a pretty good chunk of root in there. I guess I will fix it myself. It had to be from stradling those ditches, the tires looked pretty stressed on the vids and pics.
 
Problem fixed. I took the valve cores out and let it go flat. Ran a pry bar around the bead and cleaned everything out of it. Found a lot of mud, a few small roots, and even a pretty big piece of tree bark. After a good cleaning I aired them out to about 50psi spraying soapy water the whole time. When the bubbles stopped I took them back down to 35 which is max. I don't see any leaks now.
 
Problem fixed. I took the valve cores out and let it go flat. Ran a pry bar around the bead and cleaned everything out of it. Found a lot of mud, a few small roots, and even a pretty big piece of tree bark. After a good cleaning I aired them out to about 50psi spraying soapy water the whole time. When the bubbles stopped I took them back down to 35 which is max. I don't see any leaks now.

Good to hear, how's the air working?
 
Works pretty good. Do you just use regular compressor oil in it?
 
I called North side engine today in Lafayette and I was quoted at like 500 dollars for a complete head job not including parts. The guy I talked to seemed very versed on the F and 2F engine but does 500 dollars seem a little high and if so does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Lafayette area to go to. I mean for 500 dollars I can buy a reconditioned one from SOR.

Thanks,
Cruzersoul

10 years ago I used Mets machine shop to do all my head/bore/flywheel work and they did a great job but I heard they're not what they use to be now. $500 don't seem that far out but I don't remember what I spent its been a while.
 
Been lurking at pirate4x4 to much this week...


How big a tire do you think you would have to run to make rockwells worth running? Been looking at some suspension stuff to do after I fix my wireing and dont know if I want to put the effort into the toyota axles(mostly due to the narrowness), and to get a decent set of 1-ton axles would be almost as much as the 2.5's, and from everything i have read rocks have about the same amount of clearance as 14 bolts.


Just something I have been thinking about. I am thinking 44's at a bare minimum just to keep the clearance at the diff the same as it is now.
 
You're going to get so much into it that you won't want to run with us anymore :(
 
You're going to get so much into it that you won't want to run with us anymore :(


Nah man, I just do alot of pipe dreaming. Even if I did [by some miracle] build something epic I just like hanging out with everyone in the club :)

after the paint job & new starter he prob already has:grinpimp:


Bahhh.... You should know better than that:flipoff2:
 
Who knows...you start getting crazy like that and some of us might not be far behind.
 
Wish they had the Portal attachments for our axles like they have for the Dana 60's, it would add like 8" on the width and 4" more clearance. Rockwells are heavy, larger tires more weight and lost of power you will need a cummins in the 4runner as well. Just get some full size blazer axles (way cheaper and easily found) that your wheels still bolt too and upgrade the axle shafts. When you bend tubes and start snapping shafts or gears sell the used parts and upgrade again. That way the suspension is already set up for full size axles.

But Rockwells are way cooler and would love to see them under a local rig.:cheers:
 
The 3.4 calls for the double electrode sparkplugs what kind should I run?
 

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