Tech Questions Here (2 Viewers)

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Volunteer said:
Looks fun, good writeups. :) Keeping the 4-Runner you decided against trying to find an older solid axle?
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The one I have is pretty good, its hard to start all over and lose what I have invested so far. Have some money saved up for the SAS, just trying to find an axle now.
 
John S. said:
The one I have is pretty good, its hard to start all over and lose what I have invested so far. Have some money saved up for the SAS, just trying to find an axle now.
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Gotcha, its a really nice one and one of the nicer ones I've seen in sometime. The addition of the SAS will put it over the top. Add in the locker while you're at it :D
 
moomtazz said:
Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.

Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.

1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad??

x2 on not cutting the hump. Keeping it original is my first reason and secondly 40s are hot enough as it is. Don't need anymore hot air in the cab. It would probably start to leak even with weather stripping. Also the tool box is a great idea. You can use a 3M product called Dual Lock to secure it to the floor. It is like Velcro but super, super strong. I use it a lot in the marine industry and you can hang upside down by the stuff. That way you don't have to put holes in your rig. I know they sell it at West Marine but that place is very expensive. Shop around and I bet you can find it a lot cheaper. I wish I had room under my seats for storage.
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ahh, thanks for the heads up on the Dual lock. I'll look into it. I'm going to put a bench seat in the back also, and possible have storage under it also. Depends on how high/safe having the bench sit on the wheel wells would be.
 
I'm about to start work on my front bumper and sliders. Couple of questions.

I am going to use 2" steel tubes for the front bumper and sliders.
What kind of steel (how think) should the plates that attach the sliders/ bumper to the truck be?
What size steel should be on the skid plates?
For bending the steel i was thinking my ol vise and a rubber hammer. maybe a plow torch too.

i have no experience but i would like to do everything but the welds. Have a cousin that is really experienced and he's gonna help me but he wants me to have a lot of it done. and tips, advice or any ol comments?? thanks
 
Jamco6000 said:
I'm about to start work on my front bumper and sliders. Couple of questions.

I am going to use 2" steel tubes for the front bumper and sliders.
What kind of steel (how think) should the plates that attach the sliders/ bumper to the truck be?
What size steel should be on the skid plates?
For bending the steel i was thinking my ol vise and a rubber hammer. maybe a plow torch too.

i have no experience but i would like to do everything but the welds. Have a cousin that is really experienced and he's gonna help me but he wants me to have a lot of it done. and tips, advice or any ol comments?? thanks
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2 things. Forget the thought of a vise and a rubber hammer. I'm no metal magician but any bumper and slider forged with those tools is not going to protect much bud. This is a question for Albert he does some nice work. I would say go 3/16 and 1/4 for the frame base but don't follow my lead I broke mine :doh:
 
haha i wasn't going to actually use the vise and hammer. but i have no idea how to bend the metal. I would think a machine would have to do it. this next week i am going to make the bumper and skids out of card board and foam so i can see what I'm going. then i will move on to metal.
 
do you have acorn nut ----{lug nut} that is now? if so should be the same.
 
these are the lugs i have now, dont know what kind they are, i think they are acorn

imgp0417qv3.jpg
 
Jamco6000 said:
these are the lugs i have now, dont know what kind they are, i think they are acorn
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Those will work however if I were you I'd order some new acorn lugnuts that are meant for those wheels. I ordered a bag of them to replace the rusty ones I had and were cheap. Just my .2 :)
 
Jamco6000 said:
how i know which nuts are made for the wheels? the nuts i have now are in excellent shape, a quarter + 4 are new. none are rusty
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The shop you are buying the rims from will know. Its not that yours may be rusty they are made to work with the factory rims. Can you use them yes but just like those are made for the factory rims most AMR are made to work with the standard acorn style nuts.
 
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in not a good hagler, how should i go about it, im already getting the best deal out there, didnt plan on hagling but that can never hurt. Im already getting 1 rim free 100 dollars off and free road hazard waranty. what should i say to hagle them
 
I am just saying that you get a better price on the phone then what they advertise in catalogs or magazines. Always ask for the "good guy discount", just a figure of speech not an actual discount.:grinpimp:
 
This has been a very productive week for the 40. I got the twin sticks in, changed out the slave cylinder today, and finally confirmed, the 4WD WORKS! It's a little balky to engage, requiring some forward/back rocking, but it does work.

The clutch slave is a little problematic. It seems the clutch fork pivot was being held on by about 2 threads of the bolt through the bellhousing. I tightened it up when I was changing the slave, but now the slave shaft is a bit too long. I have the nut screwed down as short as it will go, but I can tell the clutch isn't being fully engaged. I think tomorrow I will take off the big cone nut and put a washer in front of the capture nut. This should give another 1/4" or so of room. Hopefully it will be enough.


EDIT: The new slave shaft is much longer than the old one. I put the old shaft in the new cylinder and everything seems to be working!
 
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Has anyone ordered switches from these guys Rocker Switches - Offroad Rockers ?

I've tried emailing them for a week and have not gotten a reply yet. The switches look like they would work nice for me cleaning up the wiring in my truck.
 
Doable said:
Has anyone ordered switches from these guys Rocker Switches - Offroad Rockers ?

I've tried emailing them for a week and have not gotten a reply yet. The switches look like they would work nice for me cleaning up the wiring in my truck.
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Yep, I have WHOLE BOX FULL of them in the closet. I ordered EVERYTHING I thought I could use when I had the 40 (I tihink I could build a 40 from what's in my closet). You're welcome to look at em etc.. I spoke w/ them on the phone and they emailed me once as well. Nice folks.

I have this thing for Mary on Sunday so I dont' know if I can make the meeting but I'll throw em in my truck in case I can. If not, just call me and I can meet up w/ you. They seem to be well made and I ordered some for Landry for winch power.

:beer:

me
 
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