Tech: Fuel Filter (1 Viewer)

[warpdriv]

I recently pulled my engine out of my 80 and thought I would post up some picks of the fuel filter so y'all would have a better idea what your getting into.

The fuel filter is under the intake manifold. It is a classic example of why engineers should spend time on the line repairing what they have designed, so they would learn not to do stupid things.

When R&R'n a fuel filter there are 2 17mm banjo bolts on each end of the fuel filter that hold the fuel lines in. Between the banjo bolt is a aluminum washer. So the sequence of assembly is banjo bolt, washer, fuel line, washer, and then fuel filter. The dis/assembly of the lines off the fuel filter has to be done while the fuel filter is on the engine. Before starting this, crimp the inlet fuel line with a vise grip. It will keep fuel from going all over the place.

When pulling the filter off the engine, you will need a 12mm socket and a long extension. From under vehicle, or in your favorite yoga position, you can remove the bolts.

After getting everything out, put the back mounting bolt in about half way. Then take the fuel filter and cut open the back mount hole so that you can slip the fuel filter onto the back bolt. Then put in the front bolt and tighten both mount bolts.

When putting the banjo bolts back in, take care that you do not loose the washers.

If anyone else has any tips, please post up.

HTH.

 

[tblume]

picture of the cut out in the mounting ear would help- I used a set of tin snips IIRC. maybe even cut out both mount tabs so that next time around it's a matter of just loosening the bolts and the appropriate twist? would make the fuel filter lots less pesky.

 

[Layonnn]

thanks warpdriv

This explains what i have read in the changing the fuel filter thread soooooooo much better.

What in the world is a banjo bolt??? I have a new fuel filter in my garage waiting to be installed.

 

[tblume]

both ends of the filter are attached to their hard lines using a banjo bolt- look at the second picture of the bolt for the end of the filter, kinda looks like a banjo?

It's hollow and has a passageway machined through at 90* from the shaft axis, which allows the fluid to pass through when it's all snugged up in the fitting on the end of the hard line.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i found that getting the banjo bolts started before i bolted the filter in worked better. then firmly bolt in filter and do final tightening of the banjo bolts

 

[cool breeze]

i thought it was easier than expected...a ratcheting wrench def. helped

 

[lt1fire]

The 3FE one is easier


The one on the 22RE is the same thing and the engint bay is more cramped to get to it. I hated doing that thing.

 

[96r50]

There is more info on this topic in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/41898-how-do-you-change-fuel-filter-2.html

 

[GeoRoss]

An extra set of hands was super helpful too.

 

[lispeej]

warpdriv,
Do you have a 1fz or 3fe?

 

[MoJ]

This really isn't that tough of a job. Remove the driver's side wheel, plastic splash skirt, and then replace the thing. I didn't see any reason to notch the mounting tabs.

 

[cool breeze]

Warpdrive HAD a 1fz, recently died from PHH neglect.

Moj that's because you have dainty smallish woman-hands

 

[MoJ]

Nah, I think everyone just reads about it being tough and gets psyched out.

 

[Valden]

Hello all. First post here.

I replaced the fuel filter on my 1FZ-FE petrol engined 80 series Landcruiser yesterday. First time by me. It really wasn’t that difficult so I thought I’d describe the straightforward method I used. No tricks or special moves involved. No wheels or plastic removed. No jack stands needed.

Parts needed: OEM replacement filter, which comes with four crush washers. You’ll need those, so check they’re in the box. I didn’t order new banjo bolts and didn’t need them.

Removal:

Move the car into the garage. No need to remove the front left wheel, nor to put the car on jack stands if you can fit under with a creeper. Can’t fit under? Reduce your beer ration.

Engine off. Open the fuel filler cap to relieve pressure.

Tuck a towel under the fuel filter to catch drips. There’ll be about half a cup. Try not to let the cigarette fall out of your mouth during the next step. Don’t smoke? Congratulations. You might last longer than your Landcruiser.

Use a 17mm spanner to crack the two banjo bolts at each end of the fuel filter. Fuel will leak. Don’t remove these bolts yet.

From under the car, reach up with long extensions and a wobble joint to the two 12mm bolts that mount the filter to the manifold. Crack and loosen them so there’s some movement of the filter but don’t remove them yet.

Remove the banjo bolt at the front-of-car end of the filter. More fuel will leak. The rubber fuel line will flop around. When the leaking stopped I put a small, clean plastic bag around the end of the fuel line, secured with a rubber band, to keep dirt out. There are two crush washers on the banjo bolt, either side of the fuel line. Make sure they’re removed. Put the banjo bolt aside and keep it clean.

The little bit of movement of the filter will now make it easier to remove the banjo bolt at its rear end. Remove the two crush washers. The fuel line here runs straight to the injectors, post filter, so keeping dirt out is imperative. The fuel line is metal so won’t flop. There wasn’t much dirt around this metal fuel line so I just let it hang there without covering it. The less disturbance the better.

Get under the car with the long extensions and remove the inner 12mm filter mounting bolt; the one closest to the engine block.

From up top, support the filter and remove the outer 12mm mounting bolt. Try to keep the filter level to reduce fuel spillage as it’s manoeuvred out. If you’re still smoking, turn your head away to avoid sparks landing on your hands. They’ll be wet with fuel.

Inspect and clean the banjo bolts. Mine were in excellent condition, after 160,000kms of use. I blew them out with shop air before re-using them.

Installation:

With minimal disturbance, clean the end of the metal fuel line that is hanging from the inlet manifold with a clean, lint-free cloth soaked with shellite. Clean the inner part of the fuel line end ring with a cotton-bud soaked with shellite.

Take the banjo bolt you’ll use for the rear end of the filter, ensure it’s clean, then fit a new crush washer to it. Fit this through the end ring of the metal fuel line and then place another crush washer on the banjo bolt. The end ring of the fuel line will now have a crush washer on either side of it. Let it rest there.

Hold one of the 12mm filter mounting bolts with your lips, next to your cigarette. Or place it somewhere handy.

Orient the new filter, maneouvre it into place, slide the guide prongs around the metal fuel line and screw the banjo bolt into the threaded end of the filter, but not all the way. Take care that the mounting legs of the filter are not tangled with the mounting stubs of the manifold. If they are, remove the banjo bolt and start again. Clean again if necessary.

Keep supporting the filter with your hand while retrieving the 12mm bolt. Fit it through the outer leg of the filter and into the mounting stub of the manifold, but not tight yet.

Get under the car with the extensions and the other 12mm bolt. Install it through the hole of the filter’s inner leg, but not tight yet.

Up top again, snug up the rear banjo bolt, finger tight.

Clean the front fuel line end ring with the lint free cloth, shellite and cotton buds. Install it to the front end of the filter with its banjo bolt and two new crush washers; one either side of the fuel line end ring. Snug it up, finger tight.

Use two 17mm spanners to put a little tightness onto the two banjo bolts, simultaneously.

Get under the car and put a touch of tightness onto the two mounting bolts. Get up top and put some firmer tightness onto the banjo bolts. Get under and tighten the mounting bolts some more. Take the banjo bolts up to 29Nm / 22 lb-ft. Tighten the filter mounting bolts to 21 Nm / 15 lb-ft.

Start the engine. Check for fuel leaks, i.e. there shouldn’t be any. Job’s done!

 

[madisonr34]

Torque down the front banjo before you bolt the fuel filter to the manifold. Use a wrench (19mm I think) to hold the neck of the fuel filter then use the 17mm wrench to torque down the banjo bolt.

Start threading the rear banjo bolt in then bolt the filter to manifold. Use the same 2 wrench method to torque down the rear.

 

[Valden]

Torque down the front banjo before you bolt the fuel filter to the manifold. Use a wrench (19mm I think) to hold the neck of the fuel filter then use the 17mm wrench to torque down the banjo bolt.

Start threading the rear banjo bolt in then bolt the filter to manifold. Use the same 2 wrench method to torque down the rear.

Hi Madison.

Good points, re using spanners to hold the filter body while torquing the banjo bolts.

Problem is, getting an open end spanner onto those hex surfaces on the filter body can be a problem. None of my metric spanners had thin enough heads to fit on. Further, the tight confines of the engine bay made getting them or my thinner imperial spanners on impossible. :-( For reference, 7/8" and 3/4" spanners fit the filter hex surfaces well. Short, thin spanners will be needed.

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