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Ordered today. My dome light is VERY dim. Not for long I hope.
 
Do I understand LED are not voltage specific? Somewhere I read that an LED can be run on 12 or 24v? Is this true?
 
In2cruisers said:
Do I understand LED are not voltage specific? Somewhere I read that an LED can be run on 12 or 24v? Is this true?
Click to expand...

LEDs are VERY voltage specific. They need electronics to provide constant current to them. Cheap LED units for cars just use a resistor to provide a very crude current limit - but this only works if you have to drop a couple of volts and at low current.

With a high powered LED, especially a single one in a vehicle you definitely need electronics. The LED modules I make regulate the current and will work with up to 30V at the input, so they will work fine in a 12V or 24V vehicle. The convert the input voltage by DC-DC conversion, so to drive 350mA to the LED, they draw about 100mA from 12.8V or about 50mA from 25.6V.

Oh - on the post above about "... hate when a company doesn't list a phone number..." - um - I'm just a cruiser owner that makes these modules in the back room of my house as a hobby... The LED modules are all hand assembled by yours truly.

cheers,
george.
 
George....How much are 60 series LEDs for 24v?
 
In2cruisers said:
George....How much are 60 series LEDs for 24v?
Click to expand...

Same price as the 12V - since they are the same module :) i.e. they will work from about 5V to 30V with constant output from the LED.

You can find the pricing on www.taskled.com/order.html and email me for payment info.

I've also put 2 of them up as an xmas giveaway (as I've done for a few years now) in the 80 series subforum - so you can try your luck if you want... I'm sure the 80 guys won't mind too much if you visit their forum to win away the leds :)

cheers,
george.
 
Another happy customer here. Although I am really happy with the light, my main reason for getting them was the low power draw. Leave a door ajar or a domelight on overnight? No problem, she'll still fire up.

I do have a voltage question if you're still there George . . .
If a resistor is used to get a voltage drop to power the LED, is it less efficient (use more power) than LEDs powered by your modules?

I ask because I am thinking of making some LED underhood lighting and figured I would add resistors, if needed, to get the appropriate voltage. But if using resistors is going to lose efficiency, I might just go the easy route with a typical incad hood light as they are cheap and plentiful.
 
Marc311 said:
Another happy customer here. Although I am really happy with the light, my main reason for getting them was the low power draw. Leave a door ajar or a domelight on overnight? No problem, she'll still fire up.

I do have a voltage question if you're still there George . . .
If a resistor is used to get a voltage drop to power the LED, is it less efficient (use more power) than LEDs powered by your modules?

I ask because I am thinking of making some LED underhood lighting and figured I would add resistors, if needed, to get the appropriate voltage. But if using resistors is going to lose efficiency, I might just go the easy route with a typical incad hood light as they are cheap and plentiful.
Click to expand...


Glad you like the modules - even if only for the low current draw aspect :)

Resistors burn power. Here's some simple math.

My modules use DC-DC current regulated design. Typical 1W or 3W LEDs have a working voltage of around 3.5V when driven to spec. So, say a 1W as an example, they are 350mA drive.

So 350mA x 3.5V = 1.2Watts to the LED. With a driver like mine, that runs around 90% efficient, that means 1.2 x 1.10 = 1.32Watts input power. So, 12.8V battery needs to supply 1.32W, so 1.32/12.8 = 100mA drawn from a nominal 12.8V system.

Now instead, if we use a resistor, we need to drop 12.8V to 3.5V AND supply 350mA.

So (12.8 - 3.5) / 0.35A = 26 ohm resistor. That 26 ohm resistor will be dissipating (12.8 - 3.5) x 0.35 = 3.25Watts.

So, you have 1.2W going to the LED PLUS 3.25W in heat going to the resistor. A total of 4.45W in overall draw. 4.45 / 12.8 = 350mA i.e. we are drawing 350mA from 12.8V with just a resistor in series with the LED and we're burning more power in the resistor than we're supplying to the LED.

Gets worse in a 24V system. With my drivers the draw is about 50mA (1/2 the 12V current draw). With a resistor the draw would still be 350mA but now we're got more resistor heat (25.6 - 3.5) x 0.35 = 8Watts!!

ALSO - you need to consider spikes and other nasties from the alternator/electrics that a resistor will not dampen/protect from getting to the LED. Given time, the LED will die.

cheers,
george.
 
Put the front light in today. About a 20 minute process. Unbelievable difference! Really happy with this.
 
Would really love to see a before/after comparison pic
 
:beer::popcorn:pics I said...:popcorn::beer:
 
I have had George's dome and rear cargo LEDs in my FJ62 for about 3 years. No problems at all. Great product and best mod under $100.
 
the best dope scope ever...

took longer to open package than to install...
taskcopy.webp
 
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Installed the rear dome today. Only slightly more difficult than the front (very easy) as two small holes needed drilling. Very happy with this.
 
A bump for another happy taskled customer!
Super communication via email ( I'm talking minutes, not days to reply) they arrived quickly, installed easily, and just made a nice difference strapping 3 kids in their car seats tonight. (Yes, I really do have 3 car seats across the rear bench) There was enough difference for my bro-in-law to comment while it was parked directly under a street light in a parking lot. He'd not been told I'd done anything to the lights.
Thanks, George!
 
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