Talk to me about wheel spacers

[KLF]

OK, here's the deal. When I first did my SAS over 10 years ago, I bought a kit from Front Range Off Road that let me use the IFS wheel hubs, it was basically a machined aluminum spacer and some hardened bolts that pushed the brake rotor inboard so they fit inside the stock calipers. The advantage is a wider stance that matched the rear axle, plus I was able to use my SR5 alloy wheels on a solid axle. All was good.

Couple of months ago it was time to rebuild the front axle and install new rotors (the old ones were junk), and I found the bolts that hold the rotor to the spacer are essentially fused to the spacer, they will not come out (tried lots of Kroil, impact, heat, etc). The only way to get the rotor off is to drill off the heads. Well, being hardened bolts, it took me over an hour to get 2 bolts drilled off (10 more to go). So I bailed and stuck the solid axle hubs back on for now, fortunately my newer 16" rims fit no problem.

Except that the tires rub on the springs pretty badly at full lock. I thought it would be tolerable until maybe next Spring when I had the time and patience to fight with the frozen bolts, but it's driving me crazy. I know I can adjust the steering stops to keep them from rubbing, but that will kill the turning radius, it'll be like steering a cruise ship.

Should I just order up a set of 1-1/4" spacers and stick them on to push the wheel out some? Anybody have experience with them? Several places sell them, but for some reason spacers are poo-pooed.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

I ran spacers on my 40 and my HZJ75 to expand the wheel selection and had no issues, granted I didn't push them out too far so they didn't beat my wheel bearings. One set I got from Carl at Just Differentials and the other from Slee. Quality on both were fine.

 

[stevezero]

Im curious on what size spacers you end up with. Ive got a set of 2002 4r sport rims that I've thought about putting on my 88 4r, but wasnt sure if I needed spacers or not. I'll be due for tires in the next year or so, and need to make a decision to either stay 15" stock, or go with the 16's.

 

[raevenzero]

I've been running 1.25" spacers for about 5 years with no ill effects. I did this to help with rubbing. I believe that I started using them on a fresh axle build and recently rebuilt and regeared. I'm not sure if having newer bearings saved me from trouble.

 

[MatS]

Only thing about spacers I would stay away from is the one that just slide on and shorten your wheel studs. Any bolt on spacers with new studs properly torqued have never let me down.

 

[TCinVA]

We put spacers on the front of my son's SASed '86 4Runner to clear larger brakes. Properly torqued with locktite. Less than 500 miles later a wheel fell off and hit a parked car in his neighborhood just after being on the highway at 75. We are very leary of them now, he is looking to get 16" wheels soon and checking the spacer nuts obsessively now.

 

[KLF]

Finally got this solved/complete.

Did some looking around, Low Range Off Road has a good selection:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yotamain/4runner/toyota-wheel-spacers.html

I don't want to go more than 1-1/4", as this will put my tires at the very edge of passing annual inspection. I really liked the Spidertrax, but I also knew that my wheels (from 2000 4Runner) were hub centric, so I wasn't sure if I could use them. Emailed LROR, they told me the hub centric models would be the way to go,so that's what I ordered. Well, it's a good thing I saved the email, because there is no way they would work, they won't fit over the wheel hub. The confusing "1980-Up 4 Runner (w/o Locking Hubs)" in the application guide is not correct. Fortunately, LROR made it good (great service, BTW), ate all the shipping costs for me to return them and send me a set of the 1-1/4" Tail Gear spacers.

It was finally above freezing here yesterday, so I got them installed. Fit was perfect. No instructions provided in the box, but they have them on-line. 100 ft-lbs on the spacer nuts, you need a very slim 21mm socket, I found a 13/16" deep socket also worked OK, but it would sometimes get stuck. Had to coax it off with a tap of a rubber mallet.

Took them for a ride to get the first 10 mile re-torque out of the way, I was very surprised to find that the truck really drives much better now. Maybe it's just a placebo effect, but it seems to track straighter, less tendency to wander.

 

[x factor]

Took them for a ride to get the first 10 mile re-torque out of the way, I was very surprised to find that the truck really drives much better now. Maybe it's just a placebo effect, but it seems to track straighter, less tendency to wander.

Having the same width or wider front end definitely make it more stable. Chevy/GMC actually made there front end wider than the rear on the 88-98 pickups for more stable towing.

 

[GRM]

I wish you the best with the wheel spacers. While I have had mixed results with them, I did have them fall off the front of my '85 4runner and 2 years ago fell off the rear of my '86 Mini while driving 70 down the freeway. I still have a significant amount of body damage from it.

Long term, I would look at doing the FROR IFS hub kit with Tacoma/Tundra brakes. I'd hate to see your truck get hit by a tire after how much work you put into cleaning it up.

 

[KLF]

It's remarkable the difference it made in the ride and handling. I really think it's because the center of the tire is now either in line or slightly outboard of the center of the steering pivot.

I wish you the best with the wheel spacers. While I have had mixed results with them, I did have them fall off the front of my '85 4runner and 2 years ago fell off the rear of my '86 Mini while driving 70 down the freeway. I still have a significant amount of body damage from it.

Yes, your story was a big hesitating point for me, but I also talked to several people that have been running them for years with no issues. I plan to check them religiously for the next several hundred miles, maybe every 100 miles or so, which for me is about every 2 weeks.

Long term, I would look at doing the FROR IFS hub kit with Tacoma/Tundra brakes. I'd hate to see your truck get hit by a tire after how much work you put into cleaning it up.

I already have the FROR spacers, installed on a set of IFS hubs. The old rusty rotors are totally stuck, they've been on there since I did the SAS. I will probably pull them back out in the summer and fight with them again, see if I can get the old rotors off. FROR no longer makes this kit, BTW.

 

[GRM]

I already have the FROR spacers, installed on a set of IFS hubs. The old rusty rotors are totally stuck, they've been on there since I did the SAS. I will probably pull them back out in the summer and fight with them again, see if I can get the old rotors off. FROR no longer makes this kit, BTW.

That's the old kit, which uses an IFS rotor. Their new kit uses a Tacoma rotor & caliper, that slips over the top of the IFS hub:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/824415-new-toyota-braking-options-front-range.html

 

[KLF]

Oh, sorry I mixed up the kits you meant, I should have been more clear. Ya I saw that setup last fall when I was rushing to get the truck on the road, but I already had new FJ60 rotors painted up and ready to install, and new painted up V6 4Runner calipers, so it was kinda late to change course. Would need new brake lines too. Funny how it flips the caliper to the other side, no big deal though.

I will say that the brakes on this truck are awesome, easily locks up all the wheels. Still tweaking the manual proportioning valve.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Not a fan of spacers, but look at your driving habits, light off road use should be no problem....I would Red Locktite those inner lucks.. Re torque after a few miles..

 

[KLF]

Yup, all the spacer nuts got red Loctite, I'm gonna check them again tomorrow (3rd time).

 

[Toast]

I've been running spacers for the past 20,000 miles. No issues. Checked the torque after a week when I first installed and they didn't budge a hair. Haven't messed with em since. I sometimes forget they are even there. Overall nothin but positive feedback over here. They are spidertrax I do believe

 

[willflow]

Always try to find steel spacers over aluminum. Properly cleaned surfaces go a long way. The one thing people don't realise is something called scrub radius. With spacers you change this radius. Picture your tire from above. From the factory the tire will pivot on a center point in the tread. With spacers and aftermarket wheels you will now pivot toward the inside of the tire tread therefore actually scrubbing the tire tread toward the outside. This isn't a major problem but does put more wear and strain on your parts. I ran steel spacers that were 1.5" with 38's for years and every time I checked the spacers they were tight.