I've swapped in the 1.5" OME springs, new factory shocks and bought the PFRAN CV Boot kit. My LC has that stink bug look. The LC has 142k, original CV's with minor leaks due to failing seal bands. My questions are: can I get away with just replacing the bands, adding some grease, and twisting the T-Bars to level it out a bit? Or, should I do all the previous and add a Slee dif drop? When I crank the T-Bars, should I have the old bands removed, then re-band when I get it to the desired height?
T-Bar Crank and CV Re-Band
- Thread starter Emcd
- Start date
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duggy
SILVER Star
I would remove the old bands and buy the kit to re-band the CVs.
If you are on a stock front bumper without weight you should be able to get away with just cranking the TBars to level out your ride. Once you add weight is when you really need to get aftermarket TBars to help with the load.
If you are on a stock front bumper without weight you should be able to get away with just cranking the TBars to level out your ride. Once you add weight is when you really need to get aftermarket TBars to help with the load.
I would go ahead and replace the boots and grease (toyota sells a kit) but then use the Pfran or same hose clamps to prevent future leaks on a lifted truck. It's worth rebuilding the 140kmi Toyota units if the splines and internals are decent, aftermarket axles can be problematic, Toyota axles can be spendy.
Don't crank too much, keep some stink for proper handling (-flat truck will wander), save for a future swap to T-bars and a diff drop but this should work great for awhile.
Don't crank too much, keep some stink for proper handling (-flat truck will wander), save for a future swap to T-bars and a diff drop but this should work great for awhile.
- Thread starter
- #4
I was planning on keeping appropriate rake to maintain the proper handling characteristics. I was hoping to just keep the existing boots for the time being and just shoot some grease in to get me by for a 2-3k miles. For the rebuild kit, do I send them out? Or, is it a DIY. My thoughts are to eventually pull the front axles and replace with Toyota parts, keeping the old ones as spares. They are about $450/side, right?
Slee did my OME lift with diff drop. Also leveled the truck, no stink bug. Mine does not wonder, straight and true at 70mph+. I'd add the diff drop.
I try to keep my shaft clean too. 
The OEM clamps come off very easily if you carefully pry up and snip the thin part of the band (Dont try to cut where it is joined together) just be gentle on the boot as not to cut it. Replace with the rounded edge euro style screw clamps like Pfran sells.
If the boots are in good shape, clean everything, slide the boot back clear the grease out thoroughly, clean everything again, refill & re-band. Many good threads here on the process and what grease is being used.
If the boots are in good shape, clean everything, slide the boot back clear the grease out thoroughly, clean everything again, refill & re-band. Many good threads here on the process and what grease is being used.
- Thread starter
- #12
All I did was the pfran clamps. I don't want to stress the original boots and CVs, so I'll wait to crank the TBs until I get the diff drop. That way I can loosen the clamps, drop the diff, Ned then crank the TBs, and hopefully end up at or near the stock CV angles. I didn't add any grease to the booted section. I had minimal loss and I felt the risk of tearing a boot was greater then the CV running dry.
You're still running stock TB's right? Take a front measurement from center of axle to the fender lip (sitting on level ground). You will "probably" be ok leveling up to 20" ( prob. close to that already) with out affecting the boots (or whats inside), and if you can get 21" still maybe no need for diff drop. But over 21" might accelerate wear on the high mileage CV's with out the diff drop. As others have said 1" rake from back to front will help steering.
I'm at 170k now on orig. cvs and boots and no diff drop. Installed suspension about 3000 miles ago. Started at close to stock height with the plan to crank my TB's up a little every few thousand miles with the thought process that slowly changing the angles may extend the life a little longer. I may be disallusioned but it makes me feel better
- Thread starter
- #14
All stock up front. So, remove the wheel center cap and measure from the center of the grease cap to the fender lip? I think you are smart to slowly lift it over time. It will allow for the rubber boots to adjust slowly over time instead of one big jump. My front end is really low. I'll messer end report back on the height.
Maybe- Depends on how much thread you have left on the adjusting bolts, you may need to clock the TBs to get more height. Also measure your rear height before you adjust anything up front. Try and keep at least 1" rake.
On my TBs 5 complete turns prouced about 1" rise- and expect that to settle a little after driving.
On my TBs 5 complete turns prouced about 1" rise- and expect that to settle a little after driving.
- Thread starter
- #19
I bagged on the fireworks. I removed the clamps and pushed back the boots. Peanut butter poured out of the boots... Yuck! After it drained, I cleaned out as much as I could. Then I pumped in moly axle grease, cleaned the lip, and pushed the boot back into place, I tightend the clamps more than last time to make sure it sealed. I have short drives all week that should be a good test. We'll see.
