Synthetic rope and fairlead (1 Viewer)

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lt403

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Hi everyone,
I have a Warn M12000 with wire cable on my ARB bumper and would like to change to synthetic rope.
1- which is the best rope currently on the market that you recommend?
2- should I change to rubber rollers or to a Hawse fairlead?

Thanks for the input
 
Dyneema. Yes, change.
 
12 strand Dyneema, I use Samson Amsteel Blue.

Buy a fid (I like the Factor55 Fast fid), learn to splice loops, terminate it yourself. It is shockingly easy. You can save a ton of money by buying line in bulk and making your own winch lines and extensions. It also lets you do quick field splices if your or a friend's line breaks. For bonus points, learn to whip your lines to prevent creep when not under tension (marine supply stores are a great pace to get waxed line and needles).

Also, make sure your spool is smooth with no burrs before installing the synthetic.

If you want something deluxe, check out the Safe X-Tract lines. It's what I'd run if I wasn't cheap. Safe-Xtract Winch Line - Safe-Xtract® - https://www.safe-xtract.com/product/safe-xtract-winch-line/

If your rollers are COMPLETELY smooth and undamaged, you could continue using them. I know a lot of knowledgeable people advocating roller fairleads for synthetic. I run hawse fairleads, Factor 55 makes nice ones I use on my 200, I use a Slee hawse on my 80.

Any burrs, or damage to your spool, fairlead, or other components the line runs over will damage the synthetic line, other than UV, abrasion is the other synthetic line killer.
 
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I use JM Rigging Supply for synthetic winch line and soft shackles. They support the Crazy Cruiser racing team and manufacture everything on site.
I switched to a hawse fairlead when I went synthetic years ago. Warn has a variety of fairleads.
 
Amsteel blue is on my wife's Sequoia. On my Cruiser is the synthetic that came on the Warn when I bought it. Probably will go to Amsteel on that as well. I run hawse fairleads on both. As @CharlieS mentioned, the biggest thing is making sure there are no burs on the drum or fairlead.
 
I have a Warn hawse fairlead you can have if you want it. I used a F55 so this one has just been on the shelf collecting dust (I had it installed for a few days while waiting for the F55 fairlead, but never winched with it). If you want it, PM me. It came with my M12-S winch.

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How much 1/2" rope can you wind on your winch drum?
 
Here's a good demonstration of the whipping (lock stitch) that I used to learn how to do this.

If you google a brummel lock splice with one end fixed, you can see how to make a loop. It is pretty simple.

Pro tip - Dyneema strands are hard to cut, and wear down blades, you'll dull your knife quick and go through razor blades fast - I now use these shears that are made for cutting fiber optic kevlar (thanks AJ, if you ever see this!), and they work great and don't dull. https://a.co/d/0QIBPYO

This Robline kit with needle included is the easy button to getting waxed twine for whipping/lock stitching: https://www.internationalmarineserv...Yarn-Whipping-Twine-Kit-w-p/fse-ty-kitblu.htm

I carry these shears on trail along with the fast fid, a silver sharpie (for dark line), a black sharpie (for blue/orange line) and both black/yellow electrical tape. Once you start splicing, you see why these are essentials.

I use 3/8" on both the 200 and the 80. YMMV.
 
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:popcorn:
 
I have a lot to learn
 
Rollers for steel cable, hawse for synthetic.

Synthetic can slip between the rollers, causing pinching or cutting.
 

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