Stupid thrust block question (rear diff) (1 Viewer)

[R.E.M.]

I'm typing this laying under my truck

Installing an Aussie locker back here and ran into an issue. Since I've never had the diff apart on this truck before this is new to me. I got the pinion shaft to slide out, but I can't get the thrust/spacer block out to get to the c clips. What the heck am I missing??

 

[R.E.M.]

These aren't limited slip parts are they?

 

[klinetime574]

These aren't limited slip parts are they?

Whoa. That does not look OEM. What the heck is that I wonder

 

[R.E.M.]

I wish I knew! Those two photos are the different sides of the same diff.

 

[klinetime574]

I wish I had a picture of the diff before I installed my lockright. But here it is installed.

Note the lockright. Everything else is original. That was a while ago now I did it. Just wanted to share.

Someone has been back there for sure. The "housing" around all that stuff is odd looking. One of these guys will know what that is I bet.

 

[R.E.M.]

Yeah, my carrier does NOT look like that. Ugh. This was supposed to be simple

 

[Matt16]

Doesn't look like even an OEM carrier, the block is wrong too. Is it some kind of limited slip carrier replacement? Here's OEM.

 

[klinetime574]

Matt16 ftw. Thanks for the picture.

R.E.M- Did you test the rear end with both tires off the ground? One person on each tire and see if it "locks"?

 

[R.E.M.]

R.E.M- Did you test the rear end with both tires off the ground? One person on each tire and see if it "locks"?

I haven't tested it quite like you suggested, but it acts like an open diff. Tires spin opposite.

I'm not going to take it apart any further unless I get some good direction because at this point I can still put it back together and drive to work on Monday.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

These aren't limited slip parts are they?

That does not look like a Toyota part. Any chance someone swapped in some GM gear? That almost looks like the infamous "gov-lock" also called the "gov-bomb" due to it's tendency to....well you know.

 

[R.E.M.]

The history on this truck is somewhat unknown.

Perhaps I could put it in the front and hope the diff out of the front is legit.

 

[inkpot]

The history on this truck is somewhat unknown.

Perhaps I could put it in the front and hope the diff out of the front is legit.

I would highly recommend you search "front lockers' before you install. Not necessarily a bad thing, but they are a bit different. I have installed them twice. John

 

[R.E.M.]

I would highly recommend you search "front lockers' before you install. Not necessarily a bad thing, but they are a bit different. I have installed them twice. John

I guess I was typing slower than I was thinking. I meant swap front and rear thirds so I can use the locker in the back. I don't want a mech locked front and open rear.

 

[Dynosoar]

You already have a locker! (Edit: You have a gov-lock LSD Limited slip Diff - the clutches are probably shot it is made by Eaton)

Dyno

 

[inkpot]

I guess I was typing slower than I was thinking. I meant swap front and rear thirds so I can use the locker in the back. I don't want a mech locked front and open rear.

THIS is a good idea. Front diffs are usually really low miles, so it is a cheap Refresh at the same time. Be aware that the front diff does not have a thrust block or C clips to re use in the rear. You don't need the block, but you do need the clips. John

 

[inkpot]

You already have a locker!

Dyno

If he can't tell that from driving it, then it is probably not working right. I think it is a limited slip anyway. John

 

[klinetime574]

If he can't tell that from driving it, then it is probably not working right. I think it is a limited slip anyway. John

I thought limited slips were for cars that can actually break their rear tires loose on pavement?

Joking aside I would get that thing out of there and install the Aussie locker in a factory set-up.

 

[R.E.M.]

You already have a locker!

Dyno

How can you tell? If it is, it does NOT work. Nothing appears to be broken in there.

Well, if I am to change anything I first have to remove the axle shafts from the diff. Doing so has alluded me so far. That's from post #1, remember?

At this point I'll probably put everything back together the way it was. Time is against me because I need to drive this to work on Monday, and I don't want to run into a problem that a trip to the local auto parts store can't fix.

 

[R.E.M.]

Oh, and in full disclosure I have reason to believe that the front diff might be a similar bastard, perhaps swapping diffs wont help.

 

[inkpot]

How can you tell? If it is, it does NOT work. Nothing appears to be broken in there.

Well, if I am to change anything I first have to remove the axle shafts from the diff. Doing so has alluded me so far. That's from post #1, remember?

At this point I'll probably put everything back together the way it was. Time is against me because I need to drive this to work on Monday, and I don't want to run into a problem that a trip to the local auto parts store can't fix.

Good decision. Front may take more work/time to ID since you cannot just pop the diff cover to look at it. You might try a bore scope thru the fill plug to see what it looks like in there. Blue gasket sealer is a clue that the rear has been opened/worked on? before. LS units usually operate as a normal open unit until there is a predetermined about of difference in rpm between left and right sides. Then it activates a clutch pack to bring each side to equal speeds. You will need a carrier housing, pinion shaft, C clips, and maybe side gear shims. You will have to transfer this ring gear to the new OEM carrier and then reset ring and pinion adjustments to acquire proper tooth contact patterns. This can be challenging with a non matching ring and pinion gear that both have unknown amounts of wear on them.