I had a buddy pass through ABQ two days ago. He went to Chaco yesterday and took a pic of this sign along the road. I'm linking instead of inserting the image because we are a family show.
I've driven that road once from Counselor to the Chaco site. I recall thinking how great it was that you had to drive 30 miles on a washboard road because it might turn some of the pansies around and keep the site from getting too crowded.
My one and only attempt to get to Chaco was from the south after several days of steady rain. The road was molases with foot deep ruts. We attempted the first mile, with the Subaru slipping and sliding on it's undercarriage the whole way. Called the Chaco visitor center and they said the northern route was just as bad. One route or the other really does need to be paved for emergency access/egress at the very least.
FWIW, there actually is a project in place to pave the nrothern route, although it has met with some controversey...
A few months after we moved to New Mexico, Connie and I took a road from Grants to Chaco. Thankfully, it had not rained but it was still an adventure, primarily because we were in a 300ZX. We passed a few herds of cows in the "road" and a couple of pickups headed the other way. I think they were laughing at us.
We spent the day at Chaco and went out the Northern route which was recently graded so the road was in pretty good shape. I was wondering at that time how there could be a National park without paved access knowing that there were many tour buses and out of state visitors.
Now... several visits later, I think leaving the roads unpaved is best. As Marc said, it will keep out the weenies (no offense Greg )