Stupid Question - Likely.... (1 Viewer)

[reaton]

My under seat heater does not work and I am guessing it is due to it being all seized up inside. The heat level selection level will not move and the components inside the heater looked oxidized and corroded. I want to remove it and break it down to see if its possible to repair it. So my question is this. The hoses underneath that feed the heater - are they filled with some sort of fluid that circulates from the engine?

In taking them off and capping them, am I going to mess something up?

Is there a DIY video on this some place?

I am becoming more comfortable with stuff as I watch videos and ask questions on here. I have now completed my OME lift. And have a knuckle rebuild kit en route. Trying to save some cash by knocking out some of these non-engine related projects on my own.

 

[franklin40]

yes they are filled with the coolant that goes through the engine. instead of capping them i’d suggest hooking them together to allow the coolant to flow as flows from the engine through the heater core and back to the engine. just take them off the heater core and hook them together temporarily to allow the coolant to keep flowing while you fix your heater

 

[reaton]

yes they are filled with the coolant that goes through the engine. instead of calling them i’d suggest hooking them together to allow the coolant to flow. as it is it flows from the engine through the heater core and back to the engine. just take them off the heater core and hook them together temporarily to allow the coolant to keep flowing while you fix your heater

Is it under any sort of pressure when the engine is off?

 

[franklin40]

no pressure but it will drain out from gravity. i’ve used a vice grip on the rubber hose to clamp them before taking them off and that minimizes coolant loss until you can connect them

 

[Spike Strip]

Be VERY careful removing the hoses from the soft, thin, brittle, brass tubes that come down from the floor. VERY easy to twist or kink them. Best to slice the old hose with a fresh single edge razor and peal them off.

 

[reaton]

no pressure but it will drain out from gravity. i’ve used a vice grip on the rubber hose to clamp them before taking them off and that minimizes coolant loss until you can connect them

I am guessing I can just find a male to male adapter and some hose clamps that will complete the circuit?

 

[Spike Strip]

If you want to keep the rear heater (when you fix it) just use a U shaped 5/8 hose and some new clamps and cap the Heater core tubes to keep crap out of them.

Not sure if this one is 5/8 but you get the idea

Amazon product ASIN B000C2U8Q2

 

[reaton]

If you want to keep the rear heater (when you fix it) just use a U shaped 5/8 hose and some new clamps and cap the Heater core tubes to keep crap out of them.

Not sure if this one is 5/8 but you get the idea

Amazon product ASIN B000C2U8Q2

If you want to keep the rear heater (when you fix it) just use a U shaped 5/8 hose and some new clamps and cap the Heater core tubes to keep crap out of them.

Not sure if this one is 5/8 but you get the idea

Amazon product ASIN B000C2U8Q2

View attachment 3187994

When I first in bolted the heater I wasn’t aware of the lines. Was confused on how it wouldn’t come up until I looked under and saw the hoses. So I am assuming the connections holding the hoses in place are completely outside the rig since there would be no way to get a wrench under the heater.

So under the rig is where I detach the hoses and insert this pipe to connect the lines? Zip tie her in place and plug the holes in the floorboard some how?

 

[Spike Strip]

Remove all the worm clamps on both hoses 80 and slice the hose with a razor and peal it off the tubes coming down from the rear heater and also off the two hard lines (71).

Then use something like a U - tube above or loop a piece of heater hose to connect both lines 71 together, bypassing the rear heater.

Remove and repair or replace the rear heater as necessary. There are only 2 or 3 bolts holing to the floor. Remove those and pull up (after removing the pass seat)

You can also delete the rear heater (there are threads on that) if you don't need it.

 

[John McVicker]

^^\
This. It is as simple/straightforward as @Spike Strip is making it out to be.

 

[reaton]

View attachment 3188008

Remove all the worm clamps on both hoses 80 and slice the hose with a razor and peal it off the tubes coming down from the rear heater and also off the two hard lines (71).

Then use something like a U - tube above or loop a piece of heater hose to connect both lines 71 together, bypassing the rear heater.

Remove and repair or replace the rear heater as necessary. There are only 2 or 3 bolts holing to the floor. Remove those and pull up (after removing the pass seat)

You can also delete the rear heater (there are threads on that) if you don't need it.

If the heater is done for do I loop 72 and 64 together in the engine bay to delete it completely. I found one thread on the delete and it was way confusing and didn’t use the diagram you just sent. Looks straight forward based on this graphic.

 

[Spike Strip]

No, there's better way to delete the rear heater and there's a very good thread on it. Search sucks, you'll have to dig a bit. But easiest would be to just do that bypass of the rear heater with a U-tube, but not the cleanest way.

I deleted mine using the hose in this thread:

Current solution: Rear Heater Bypass?

A cleaner solution is a generic molded 90* 5/8 heater hose. Available from FLAPS.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[reaton]

No, there's better way to delete the rear heater and there's a very good thread on it. Search sucks, you'll have to dig a bit. But easiest would be to just do that bypass of the rear heater with a U-tube, but not the cleanest way.

I deleted mine using the hose in this thread:

Current solution: Rear Heater Bypass?

A cleaner solution is a generic molded 90* 5/8 heater hose. Available from FLAPS.

forum.ih8mud.com

Roger that. Thanks for all the help

 

[Spike Strip]

When you get into it, if you have questions, post up a new thread and people will walk you through it, if you get stuck. In South American markets Toyota offered the 60 without a rear heater, and that's all we're copying, is that So Am set up. I'll post a diagram tomorrow or so. It's a really easy switch with the hose in the above linked thread

 

[2mbb]

If you want to delete the rear heater, this post has another take on it.

Help - FJ62 - Coolant leaking from Rear heater core

Not sure but just a theory...when you have a bubble of air in the engine could it run down to the thermostat and the T stat not opening because the air is cooler than the water and doesn't melt the wax in the t stat to actuate it? But if that were true, wouldn't you need to park the vehicle...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[60Works]

Is it under any sort of pressure when the engine is off?

Yes, if the engine is hot!

No, if the engine is cool.

Do this after the truck has been sitting for several hours. If the big hose to the radiator is squishy, the pressure should be low.

 

[reaton]

Last question on this one, what did you all use to plug the hole in the floorboard after the heater delete?

 

[Spike Strip]

Metal Duct Tape, but Imma cheap bastid.

There are proper chassis plugs someone showed in one of the threads

FJ60 rear heater delete

So in the middle of my new carpet install and had looked at taking the heater our to make it easier. Ordered new hoses, etc... and then I ran across some threads that mentioned deleting the rear heater altogether. I am in Texas and in the winter we drop down into the 60s for a couple weeks so I...

forum.ih8mud.com