Stuck low range gear.in 100 series.

[UZJ100KRUISA]

FYI, for anyone doing this in the future, when you remove the 12mm bolts on the right of the lever housing from inside the center console, take note of how rusted, and difficult they are to wrench off, if it requires you to use two hands and much force, chances are youre better off just drilling through the body panel in the console to remove the two bolts on the left side. I say this because chances are if the bolts are that stiff, you wont be able to get them from under the vehicle as it is extremely tight and awkward, you wont be able to get leverage on them, if you dont mind drilling 2 1 inch holes like the other photo on here, i would say just do this from the start and save yourself the headache of trying from underneath. Just a recommendation.

 

[UZJ100KRUISA]

 

[wildpaths]

Should be good for another 15 to 20 years!

As a side funny story, I let my acetone/ATF mixture sit for a few days, because I didn't know how to dispose of it. Then I decided I would put what I cold back in the ATF bottle for future soaks, and the excess in an old oil bottle. The entire contents fit into the ATF bottle, but only half should have fit. I thought maybe I had a spill I didn't notice, then realized the acetone half had simply evaporated!

 

[UZJ100KRUISA]

Meant to post yesterday, everything is back in and working like factory, also stretched the diff-locks legs now that low range is free, yeww!

 

[dusty6467]

As Alexholl2015 mentioned earlier in the thread, drilling holes above the left 2 bolts was easiest for me. I got a steel drill bit and 2 compression plugs off Amazon all for under $20. The plugs worked great and will be easy to access if I ever need to repair it again.
Plugs: Amazon product ASIN B000H5WPDI

 

[UZJ100KRUISA]

As Alexholl2015 mentioned earlier in the thread, drilling holes above the left 2 bolts was easiest for me. I got a steel drill bit and 2 compression plugs off Amazon all for under $20. The plugs worked great and will be easy to access if I ever need to repair it again.
Plugs: Amazon product ASIN B000H5WPDI
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Great idea, i never thought of using plugs.

 

[silver02accord]

my t/c is shifting fine, although there is a grind if i go slow, but if i move it fast it makes no sound. anyway, is greasing the t/c shifter advised as pm-im fairly certain its never been done.

 

[IndroCruise]

my t/c is shifting fine, although there is a grind if i go slow, but if i move it fast it makes no sound. anyway, is greasing the t/c shifter advised as pm-im fairly certain its never been done.

My post #19 in this thread carries a diagram. There is no easy way to somehow access and maintain the marked lubrication points without using one or other method described in this thread -- unless you have very thin rubber hands with double joints! My trusty Independent fixed mine in 2016 by placing the vehicle on a hoist and using a jack to support the whole transmission assembly, then unbolting the supporting cross-member, and then lowering the transmission assembly just enough to make some working room between the top of the transfer case and the vehicle body above. This 2006 vehicle was 10 years old at the time and was stuck in High Range. If there is a "next time" (in 2026?), I think I will be cutting the holes described by others in later posts in this thread -- thank you IH8MUD Members! I also will drill, tap and add a small grease nipple or similar at at reachable point in the shaft housing and which can be used to force WD-40, PB Blaster, oil, grease, or whatever, into the housing in the hope of enabling movement thereafter without so much drama! In the meanwhile, my Indy said, "use it or lose it -- frequently break any corrosion which may be building!" So about once a month if not on a trip, I find a soft surface and operate the transfer case functions and the CDL, in both forward and reverse.

So @silver02accord, if you feel you are heading for this problem, it is better to sort it out pre-emptively before travels. It is no fun being stuck in Low Range and wanting to get home quickly, and even less fun being stuck in High Range when going up or down a steep section of trail and needing Low Range. The latter happened to me!

 

[BKCruiser100]

Hey everyone, I'm having this same issue with my '98 100 series and this is extremely helpful. I'm struggling to remove the shift lever assembly and retainer, I can't seem to reach it through the hole in the console or from below, is there something obvious I need to remove in order to reach it easier?

Also trying to replace the retainer gasket but can't seem to find one.

 

[wildpaths]

There are 4 bolts holding the retainer to the top of the case. They are 12mm. Some people drill 1" holes in the sheet metal, just in front of the transmission shift lever to reach the two left (driver side) bolts. The two right ones should be accessible through the transfer case lever when the boot is removed.

I chose not to drill holes. I supported the t-case with a jack, and dropped it about 2 inches by loosening the bolts on the crossbar that supports the transmission. Then I was able to reach over the transmission and get the drivers side bolts. It was useful to have a ratcheting box end 12mm wrench. And I have long skinny monkey arms and long skinny fingers.

But rest assured, you can get the bolts off. Then there's some Tetris to get the seized lever and carrier assembly out... but it is doable.

 

[Black LC]

What i did is just remove the boot and use WD-40 and used a long rod and move back and forth for about 15-20 min i reapeated this process 2-3 times and leave it for a whole day now it is smooth as butter.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Been getting more and more difficult to get my truck into 4Lo, then Saturday on a snowy/icy pass after using four arms to pull it into 4Lo it popped back out while going down a steep hill and wouldnt go back/stay back. So anyways this is my next project. What is the path for taking the linkage assembly out? do you snake it out the bottom of the vehicle or through the hole in the top? It looks like some people could do this with out dropping the diff/case but some couldn't?

 

[dusty6467]

Been getting more and more difficult to get my truck into 4Lo, then Saturday on a snowy/icy pass after using four arms to pull it into 4Lo it popped back out while going down a steep hill and wouldnt go back/stay back. So anyways this is my next project. What is the path for taking the linkage assembly out? do you snake it out the bottom of the vehicle or through the hole in the top? It looks like some people could do this with out dropping the diff/case but some couldn't?

I got some long-reach needlenose pliers and removed the linkage from inside the vehicle through the middle console hole. The hardest part is getting to the left (driverside) 2 bolts on the housing. I ended up drilling out 1" holes out of the console floor and plugged them with compression plugs. This way I can easily access them in the future if needed.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

I got some long-reach needlenose pliers and removed the linkage from inside the vehicle through the middle console hole. The hardest part is getting to the left (driverside) 2 bolts on the housing. I ended up drilling out 1" holes out of the console floor and plugged them with compression plugs. This way I can easily access them in the future if needed.

Yup, thats what I plan to do, ordered them already.

 

[wildpaths]

What is the path for taking the linkage assembly out? do you snake it out the bottom of the vehicle or through the hole in the top? It looks like some people could do this with out dropping the diff/case but some couldn't?

Once you un-clip the linkage as @dusty6467 said, and unbolt it using whatever method works for you (I didn't drill holes, just lowered the tranny 2" and reached up with a ratcheting box wrench) you can get the assembly out the bottom of the truck, on the passenger side of the tranny. It takes a bit of tetris-action, but there is a path to get it out... at least there was for me with the tranny dropped an inch or two.

 

[UGN]

Couple weeks ago I decided to test the low range "L" on a street. Stopped the vehicle, put AT in N, shifted 4WD lever from H to N to L. It worked well and I could feel little vibration when it went into L. Drove around several blocks and when I wanted to put it back into H it was much harder for some reason to move it from L to N as if the lever was stuck in L. Eventually, I was able to put it back into H.

Did the lever stuck in L due to rust and corrosion or was it something else? What baffles me that it went from N to L with no issue but not from L to N.

 

[IndroCruise]

Couple weeks ago I decided to test the low range "L" on a street. Stopped the vehicle, put AT in N, shifted 4WD lever from H to N to L. It worked well and I could feel little vibration when it went into L. Drove around several blocks and when I wanted to put it back into H it was much harder for some reason to move it from L to N as if the lever was stuck in L. Eventually, I was able to put it back into H.

Did the lever stuck in L due to rust and corrosion or was it something else? What baffles me that it went from N to L with no issue but not from L to N.

Not sure whether your test was done on a hard surface?? If so, some “axle wind-up” is possible – meaning that there can be some torsion locked in the driveline which causes internal binding of parts and can make shifting difficult when moving from L to N. Sometimes this can be released by reversing a very short distance.

This short video illustrates the wind-up possibilities -- apologies for the Land Rover example but it explains what happens behind the scenes on 4WD systems including on Land Cruisers:




If the test gives the same behavior on gravel or sand or grass (which allows wheels to move and dissipate any wind-up), then there is another problem. Problems inside the transfer case are possible but stiffness in the external mechanical linkage between the transfer case and the shifter are far more common and best checked out first.

Of these linkage problems, 100 series vehicles with fulltime 4WD are famous for corrosion in that part of the H-N-L linkage which sits on top of the transmission as depicted below. Various solutions are described with pictures in this thread and other threads.

 

[UGN]

Not sure whether your test was done on a hard surface?? If so, some “axle wind-up” is possible – meaning that there can be some torsion locked in the driveline which causes internal binding of parts and can make shifting difficult when moving from L to N. Sometimes this can be released by reversing a very short distance.

This short video illustrates the wind-up possibilities -- apologies for the Land Rover example but it explains what happens behind the scenes on 4WD systems including on Land Cruisers:



If the test gives the same behavior on gravel or sand or grass (which allows wheels to move and dissipate any wind-up), then there is another problem.

I think the video and the axle wind-up does not relate to my case. Use of the lower gear does not lock the central differential in my vehicle. As I know earlier models of Lexus LX from 1998 to 2000 have this feature but no longer on later models (Mine is 2006 model year).

 

[Barns]

Hello,

My 2000 LC100 transferr shift lever stucked in High as well. I have spent 10 hours repairing it this weekend, so I got some hints before anyone else will face the same.

Never go to toyota at the first place. Remove the cover of the Lever so you see Retainer and try to move with lever. It is easy to see that Retainer holds lever soo tight.
From passenger side, remove AT rod to make a space. Remove Clip from transfer shift lever rod assembly, do not lose Plate washer and wave washer and bushing.
Drill two holes to be able access two hidden bolts.
I was able to remove Lever with retainer from the passenger side, where I have created space earlier.
Apply WD-40 and heat, with love, carefully, repeatedly It took 1 hour to me to be able to move with lever in retainer by one finger (Cold Retainer)
Apply a lots of grease and put the things back together.

Most important information here is to drill the holes there is only one person in this thread which was able to fix stuck lever without lowering transmission, or drilling the holes. I spent 2 hours by trying to find the way without drilling the holes and lowering transmission - waste of time.

Thank you all for this thread!

 

[Yash105]

Thank you all for your post and advice on fixing this issue.

Im also stuck and miss crawling up big hills without thrashing my beasty 105 cruiser having it just in 4 Hi has stopped me from taking out the beast on the track.

First time it happened was went on on a new track up in Appin and found awsome track at the end of the track found some cracking hills to go up and down so decided to chuck her in low and wouldn't budge was like wtf so kept trying cause its alwayed worked without issue, but she didn't want to move.

long story short smashed it out of the bush in Hi range and used the handy winch 3 times that only recently put on luckily.

Thank all yous for these post i had a battle getting the shifter out and ready to soak but only go wd40 will be getting some atf tomorrow.

lets see how we go.