Stuck /Jammed Sunroof

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Jun 4, 2023
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Location
texas
I have a 2003 LX470 and the sunroof has jammed open. The seal on the outside of the sunroof appears to have hung up on the roof of the vehicle while going backwards. Now it will not move at all.

The switches will make a faint click but I cannot hear any other motor sound and there is no movement at all. I checked the fuse but see no issue there.

I cannot manually move it. I removed the mid dome light to pull the headliner down enough to look for any obvious issue but I can't see anything obvious, and it's not really providing much access.

For the moment I just need to get it closed but can't get any traction. I am not sure what to try next here.

Is there a way test the motor to see if that is my immediate issue?

I attached some photos of the seal. Anyone ever had a similar issue?

My mechanical knowledge is not extensive but, I am willing to try learn! Any feedback or assistance is greatly appreciated.



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Drop the overhead console, then you’ll see the motor. If you drop the motor, you can then grab and move the glass. Try not to move the gears on the motor, and after you sort out the seal put the glass back to the same spot when you reinstall the motor. Otherwise you’ll need to resync the motor and glass. There is a thread on rebuilding the sunroof with the procedure.

It’s hard to tell how far open it is. If only an inch or so, you could probably pull down the black trim on the glass and remove the four nuts that hold the glass to the cable mechanism. You could then pull out the glass, sort out the seal, and put it all back together.
 
Thank you for the motor removal tip. Exactly what I needed to break the snafu!

The seal is going to need further attention but once it got free of the bind, the power functions work. I was able to get the glass closed.

Now, it looks like I’ll be seeking a replacement for the seal around the glass.

The help is greatly appreciated.
 
My LC sunroof chose the same day as yours to seize up.
Some good news!

I took the motor apart to look at the circuit board for blown anything. It looked perfect. That said, I came across a post about the motor gear assembly. That post spoke about indexing the system. So, I made sure the gear was pointing properly then I closed it up. Making sure the motor was hanging loose, I went back up and removed the glass to index the side lift cable lift. Miraculously, it appears all of the PB Blaster I shot into the cable guide overnight made its way down the cables. The driver side was fairly loose so I put the lift sled into the indexed front position. The passenger side was still pretty stiff but when I hammered it forward, it released and gave me enough play to index it into the same position as the other side.

I tightened the motor down and turned on power. It dropped rack down and it tracked back into the open position. I pressed the close slide button and it slide home into the closed position. I took the chance and slid it all the way open again and sprayed the PB blaster into the slides and wiped out the tracks, then I took my compressor and blew out all the detritus. I took some high heat red grease and coated the tracks. Texas has been excruciatingly hot. I slid the rack closed and seated the glass. A 4” glass suction tool I had for fixing my computer screen came in handy so the glass didn’t slide down the front inadvertently.

I ran the glass back and forth. Then I Tilted and it didn’t work just right. I took the PB Blaster and sprayed the seam around the glass and wiped up the extra. The seal is really dry. I may get some better suited lubricant. I may also need to loosen the four gold glass screws to let the slide rails adjust.

In the end, the combination of pretreating with serious penetrant and leaving overnight probably saved me. Then putting both cable drive sliders in indexed sync made sure there was relative accuracy to the geometry. If I did it again, I would get a piece of nylon to hammer on the cable slide because scarred the really sticky side. I had to go back with fine sandpaper and smooth out the damage and beg forgiveness with ample grease.

I get the sense there is still some binding when the window drops down to slide back. I don’t know if it’s inside the lift support that rides along the track. I’d like to make sure that area is properly greased. Anyway, just wanted to offer some resolution should you need to share. Pretty much the cables and a lack of track maintenance wrecked me.

So I’d say, if it seizes up, pop the glass out, clean the rails, spray PB Blaster onto the cable runs in the sliders, detach the motor, make sure the slides index window notches matches left and right then clean and grease things, check the glass trim and the perimeter of the body opening for grime. See how it runs without the glass and if it is smooth, put the glass back on loosely and fully close it to tighten the glass bolts and bob’s your uncle. Hopefully.
 
Mine has started to close funky, I suspect just like this. I haven't looked into mine much, but my fast guess is that my cables are a little sloppy and the seal is dry/sticking.

I think a new seal is a great first step. Perhaps the only step needed.
I took off the air deflector btw, A lot of grime building up on those front corners. Going to pop open the front windshield support covers and check the drain tubes to be sure there’s adequate drainage. Have had some occasional water buildup in there. Someone said no need to grease the runners but it needs at least a dry lubricant. I cannot imagine how hot it’s getting near the roof.

Does anyone have a picture of a Side Cable Drive with the internal track that the track sled that allows Tilt? There’s a screw that is the axis for the lifting arm but I feel like it needs some lubricant in there too.
 

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