Stuck in Water for 1+ hr...

[084runnerltd]

So I went wheelin' today with some RZR's. I was there so if they got stuck I could easily pluck them from danger and keep the day movin.....

Well, funny thing happened....

So I was stuck like that for about an hour. I kept the engine running and the truck never flinched.

I did install the ARB breather kit to both diffs about a month ago....phew.

Once I was finally out, I had zero issues.

What if anything should I check/do??

As you see water was up to the bottom of the doors with OME lift and 285/75 tires. Water did leak in the passenger floor boards, but nothing bad.

 

[084runnerltd]

Unfortunately....I get saved by a Ford!

Edit: Chevy 2500

 

[CruiseOrlando]

You need to go get a front and rear gasket kit and tear into your hubs. Make sure you didn't get water in there.

I bet you did. And trust me, if you ignore it, your bearings will turn into some odd kind of mud-like paste.

 

[084runnerltd]

Balls! Not what I wanted to hear. Did my front axle service in fall of last year....about 4k miles ago...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

At a minimum, change the oil in the diffs.

But I agree, the bearings are likely contaminated and it would be worth re-greasing them and re-installing with a new seal.

 

[084runnerltd]

At a minimum, change the oil in the diffs.

But I agree, the bearings are likely contaminated and it would be worth re-greasing them and re-installing with a new seal.

Ahhh! Just switched transfer and diffs to 150.00 worth of synthetic a few months back.

Can I just open the drain plugs and see if water comes out?? Won't the water sit beneath the oil?? Drain some and top off...unless obviously contaminated??

 

[CruiseOrlando]

If you have water in the gear oil it'll be a milky-like substance. Think chocolate milk.

Yes, you can drain it into a clean container, examine, and if it still looks like gear oil, put it back in. I doubt you have contamination in there if you have extended breathers with a functional valve. The likely contamination is in the hubs.

 

[084runnerltd]

If you have water in the gear oil it'll be a milky-like substance. Think chocolate milk.

Yes, you can drain it into a clean container, examine, and if it still looks like gear oil, put it back in. I doubt you have contamination in there if you have extended breathers with a functional valve. The likely contamination is in the hubs.

Kind of good news. At least there is a chance to save some money.

Sounds like there will be no getting around the greasy axle jobs. (I never did the rear, so maybe it's due).

Oh well, thanks all for the info.

Any concern for transfer case? Oil pan area? Tranny??

 

[jrmudder92]

Not to pick bones but that was a Chevy 1500.

 

[084runnerltd]

Not to pick bones but that was a Chevy 1500.

2500 actually....
I did edit out the first 15 minutes of failed snatch attempts

But, yes u r right, not a ford, I stand corrected.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is exactly the problem with synthetic differential fluids. They are too damn expensive to drain when you should. Each differential will cost you $1000 to replace-just sayin'.

Just me, but when in big water like that for an extended period, you should just do a quick drain/fill and forget about it. Try using the 5gal bulk buckets of gear oil to save real $$.

 

[trekker9]

Love the pics!

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Yes, 5-gallon buckets of gear oil (if you have the room for them), and a 20% off coupon from Advanced Auto Parts helps.

I actually use an older 1/2 gallon gear oil container as a transport. So I'll pump the gear oil out of the 5-gal bucket, and into the 1/2 gallon container. Then I use a hand pump to get it into the diff or whatever. It usually comes out to the right amount of fluid per diff with enough left in the container to make pumping less frustrating.

If you go this route, make sure you get a quality hand pump. Gear oil is thick, and it'll kill the usual Harbor Freight types quickly.

As for the other fluids, I usually ignore changing them - they're pretty well sealed up compared to the diffs. However, you should re-grease your driveshafts.

I don't know if IH8MUD more or IH8H2O more when it comes to the after-effects and cleanup.

 

[half k cruiser]

At some point you will learn your lesson about driving into water puddles like that Nice seat covers btw, I have the same ones.

 

[scrowley]

Looking on the brite side at least it wasn't about 6" deeper. Your interior would have been wet for a LONG time.

I use napa gear oil in the diffs because its good quality and cheap to replace in this case or for yearly changes. I am sure you have some water in your hubs UNLESS you used sealant on all surfaces as well as the gaskets. Or even just sealant. If I lived out west where there is little water and mud I wouldn't use sealant (FIPG) on the hub gaskets. BUT here in New England I feel its necassary to keep out the nasty stuff.

 

[SNLC]

Agree, check the hubs and change diff fluid. Just open up the hubs and go as deep as the knuckle. If it looks good slap it back together. If you feel the need, ya maybe drain the trans & t-case, save the fluid and put it back in if it is clean. Also agree, grease the drivelines.

cheers

 

[Dave 2000]

Did not read all of the posts but an often forgotten area is the sills, I think you guys call them rocker panels, either way it is the panel that runs under the doors. These have grommets in them to keep water 'splashes' out but there are small gaps in the welds and water can get in when they are submerged.......just like yours! Pull the grommets out and leave them out for a few dry warm days to dry them out, then spray whatever rust proofing treatment you prefer and then re-plug them.

regards

Dave

 

[084runnerltd]

Thanks all...starting cleaning the truck today....more water on the passenger side floor board than I thought.

Ripped up all the carpet, ripped out wet carpet pad...just placed an order for some thermozite. Gonna leave the carpet ripped up for a few days for everything to dry out.

Next weekend I will check all the diffs-quick question....is there anything wrong with removing top plug of diff, inserting a tube to the bottom of the diff and siphoning out a small amount of fluid from the bottom of the diff??? If there is water in there, I am thinking I could tell from the "sample" that comes out of the bottom??

(Not trying to take the lazy way out, just figured if it can save me time (by not draining everything or even having to open the bottom plug) and money (ordering plugs and crush washers) it might be worth it.

For the axle job....It is my daily driver however, that is only about 5 miles a day. I have a large road trip planned for the end of June and will surely have everything done by then.

But if water is in there I am going to have to install new bearings/grease etc...right?? Is there danger in waiting...say a month?? I realize a bearing could seize but guessing there would be some noise before that happened???

Or are you saying that if I hurry my butt up and open up the axles, I can get the water out without having to replace parts other than gaskets??

Thanks

 

[084runnerltd]

Did not read all of the posts but an often forgotten area is the sills, I think you guys call them rocker panels, either way it is the panel that runs under the doors. These have grommets in them to keep water 'splashes' out but there are small gaps in the welds and water can get in when they are submerged.......just like yours! Pull the grommets out and leave them out for a few dry warm days to dry them out, then spray whatever rust proofing treatment you prefer and then re-plug them.

regards

Dave

Thanks I will take a look and remove those as well.

 

[B Point]

I'd do it ASAP. Drain, fill, live and learn. Mud sucks but water is the worst and that's why my pussy mall crusher stays high and dry on the banks. I'm not ashamed to park my truck and go ride shotgun with the dudes that don't mind going amphibious.