Stuck in L4

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RT Cruiser

RT Cruiser

Joined
Jun 28, 2019
Threads
36
Messages
452
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
Website
coachglenndavis.com
I’m in Gunnison, CO for a few days. I put our 2008 Cruiser in L4. Worked great. But it won’t go back into H4.

I’m trying several ways such as setting the parking brake and restarting the engine. Nothing is working.

No codes on the OBD.

Pls help.
 
Does CDL work? I ask because I’ve had the CDL stick on, and that meant it wouldn’t go out of 4lo. In my case, shutting the vehicle off and restarting would resolve it. I’ve also had to turn right and left while going forward and in reverse to get the CDL off.
 
The CDL turns on and off as normal. I disconnected the battery and that didn’t resolve it. I restarted about 15 times. I wonder if there is a bad connection with the L4 H4 turn switch. Any more ideas?
 
So CDL off when you rotate the switch back to 4hi? Are you rolling (slowly) when trying to switch? Have you tried rolling in reverse? Turing lest and right? Sorry, I know I’m repeating myself a bit here. These are just the things I’ve done in this situation.
 
I’m parking it for the night. Maybe it needs a rest. I’m open for all suggestions as we are scheduled to drive back to Denver on Mon.

This will be my focus tomorrow.
 
Is it IN 4Lo, not just a light issue on the dash? If so, try driving around enough to warm everything up and then try switching back. Sometimes the actuator sticks and warming it up gets it loose again.
 
I really appreciate the help. I tried starting in neutral, driving far enough to be sure the gears and such are warm, coasting in neutral, going over bumps, putting pressure on the turn switch while I shift into drive, pulling the hand brake while I shift into drive, etc.

Yes, it’s stuck in 4 low and the light indicates this.

One forum member reached out to me and suggested I go to a car wash and spray hot water underneath in case something from the road is lodged near the components and then drive in reverse very fast. I’ll try this tomorrow.

When I spoke with him, we theorized it’s possible the snowy slush I drove through is the culprit.

Keep the ideas coming. I’ll give an update tomorrow.
 
On my 200 when it was stuck in 4 low, I would put it in neutral and then disconnect the battery for ten minutes. You need to let it reset itself I can’t remember if when you start it back up if the first time it starts and dies or not. I know it does this on my gx470

Start the truck and then immediately switch from 4low to 4 hi.

It worked for me on two different instances when it was stuck in four low. I then pulled the transfer case motor and cleaned it up. And then reeassembled it but didn’t get it aligned quite right and had to do it all over again.

I honestly try not to put it in four low anymore 😂
 
After everything is warmed up down there, jack up one wheel and try to "twist" the frame, maybe relieving some tension on things and then try all the other things, turning off and on, etc, etc...
 
Worked for me on a 200 stuck in 4LO :meh:
 
Can you tell if it is attempting to shift back into 4low? IE after turning the switch to 4H and going from neutral to drive and starting to move will cause an alarm if it’s actually attempting a change. It’s telling you to retry the cycle because it was unsuccessful.

If it’s not even attempting… the switch dial may be broken. This is not terribly uncommon. Try removing the switch and doing the turn gently with a pair on needle nose.

If you verify that it is at least trying, you can check the connectors at the actuator on the back of the T-case as well as the ground strap for corrosion or water intrusion. If there is corrosion or water, hose it out with QD cleaner a few times and plug Un plug the connections a few times. If there’s no corrosion in them. Try tapping On the actuator aggressively with the back of a screw driver while attempting a change from 4L-4H

Do you have a Check engine light on?

Do you have a multimeter?
 
use2bn83 said:
Can you tell if it is attempting to shift back into 4low? IE after turning the switch to 4H and going from neutral to drive and starting to move will cause an alarm if it’s actually attempting a change. It’s telling you to retry the cycle because it was unsuccessful.

If it’s not even attempting… the switch dial may be broken. This is not terribly uncommon. Try removing the switch and doing the turn gently with a pair on needle nose.
Click to expand...


Yes! It was the dash switch! Huge thank you !!!

After I washed under the rig for about 5 mins, I warmed up the gears really well. Took off the switch and it had plenty of tension - but it moved easily. Then, it went into H4 quickly!!! Thank you everyone. I thank the Lord because He helped our family far from home.

I did get a code went I first started the engine this morning:
P0453
Evaporative Emission System Pressure
Sensor/Switch High

Not sure if it’s related or it was caused by the slush on the highway.
 
Glad you’re on the road! FYI, your evap code will likely prevent you from being able to go into low range.

It’s a good idea to have a simple OBDII scanner on board (can be a cheap autozone or amazon one) that is able to clear codes. If one of those emissions codes pops on while on the trail you can temporarily clear it in order to go into 4low.
 
use2bn83 said:
Glad you’re on the road! FYI, your evap code will likely prevent you from being able to go into low range.

It’s a good idea to have a simple OBDII scanner on board (can be a cheap autozone or amazon one) that is able to clear codes. If one of those emissions codes pops on while on the trail you can temporarily clear it in order to go into 4low.
Click to expand...
Thank you. From the general perspective, all of this has some humor because it was just the dash switch. However, there’s 300,000 miles on it and there are a few things on it that need to be toggled a few times to make them work. So this is why I thought the switch was acting as it’s done the past few years.

The code P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure has shown several times today. I have an OBD plugin and cleared it each time. The code continues to show.

So now I have to deal with this new issue. I always use the 1 click to tighten the gas cap. Maybe it’s time for a new cap.

But thankfully we can drive home tomorrow in H4.
 
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I've been getting this on and off for a few years, and it usually accompanies extended descents in the mountains with engine braking. Clearing the codes, or topping it off with gas and it goes away. Interestingly my recent smog test came back with this?

Either way, glad to hear you can get back home in 4H.
 
You all know topping off (meaning repeat filling and filling until fuel is high up to the filling neck) can flood the charcoal evap filter (through a leaking check valve) and cause issues. I used to do this out of habit, no longer now I am aware.
 
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