Strut spacer (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Threads
20
Messages
286
A much belabored topic and one of which I have read many threads. That said and taking into consideration that 2 in lifts become the bleeding edge with respect to UCA, since the 10 mm OEM spacer yields an OEM UCA friendly 0.75 in lift, would 20 mm spacer be acceptable or advisable?

Thanks.
 
A much belabored topic and one of which I have read many threads. That said and taking into consideration that 2 in lifts become the bleeding edge with respect to UCA, since the 10 mm OEM spacer yields an OEM UCA friendly 0.75 in lift, would 20 mm spacer be acceptable or advisable?

Thanks.
Not of this type.

Firstly the studs at the top hat won’t be long enough for a 20mm spacer.

Second the 2” guideline is based on maintaining alignment geometry range with the stock UCA. It completely ignores the limitations of strut compression and bump stop position. If you put that spacer on top of the strut you’ll bottom it out before the bump stops, which is extremely bad for the strut and pretty much everything else in the front suspension.
 
IDK about the Land Cruiser, but my measurements on my LX570 suggested that the factory bump stop positioning was fairly aggressive, to the point that you would have to not only blow through the rubber, but also several millimeters of the metal portion of the stop, to actually bottom out the shock.

One issue is that, at least on the LX, a 20mm spacer would cause so much suspension droop that it would be right at the very limits of what the sway bar end links can handle in terms of twist. They may not survive long. When I unbolted the shock from the LCA and let the LCA drop another 20mm, the rubber portion of the end link was screaming for mercy and I think the ball joint on the top side was binding.

To really know how much spacer you can run, you would need to try and flex test the front end without bumps and see what happens and how much uptravel is left in the shocks
 
About 13-14mm is all the stock top hat studs can handle and still have room for the nuts to safely thread on. Wescott is the only company I'm aware of that makes a spacer of that size (although it's sold as part of a kit that includes a new spring perch spacer as well, which increases spring pre-load and may give more lift than you're looking for). 10mm OEM spacer is the "easy button" solution for something that'll give you a little lift with pretty much zero complications. Beyond that, I think you'd be better off looking for a mild lift spring rather than spacers.
 
About 13-14mm is all the stock top hat studs can handle and still have room for the nuts to safely thread on. Wescott is the only company I'm aware of that makes a spacer of that size (although it's sold as part of a kit that includes a new spring perch spacer as well, which increases spring pre-load and may give more lift than you're looking for). 10mm OEM spacer is the "easy button" solution for something that'll give you a little lift with pretty much zero complications.
There are numerous options on Ebay for 15, 20, 25, and 30mm that come with extended studs. These are the ones I grabbed.


I also grabbed their 10mm spacer along with the Toytec 5/16" spacer for a total of 16mm depending on how things look once I get it apart.
 
Sure, but you're talking about extending the travel of an AHC LX. I assume OP has a Land Cruiser. Running a tall spacer on conventional strut/spring combo has a long history of providing crap ride quality and compromised geometry. :D
 
I have the 10mm spacer and know from experience that if I get too aggressive with things I can bottom the strut. The bump stops were definitely helping but
they do have a limit. As to why this is happening despite measurements saying it shouldn't, I assume it's LCA bushing compliance when pushed hard.

CV health during down travel in excess of what toyota designed for should also be considered.

I agree with the above.. the 10mm spacer is the easy button. Beyond that people should be doing it right, which means an actual suspension upgrade. IMO westcott, raising the CoG without any extra spring rate or damping, doesn't qualify.
 
To OP… Is there some specific use-case you’re seeking by considering this? Or is it more for looks?

I ask because having a bit of forward rake (nose lower than rear) is actually NOT a bad thing… Excessive lift on our independent suspension even means your front CV joints are operating at steep angles even on flat ground. Then… When your tires drop into a hole or indentation over an obstacle under power…you’re REALLY cranking your CV angles steeply…which can dramatically increase strain on them.

On my hard-wheeled 200, I have deliberately kept front lift fairly tame for this and other reasons—one being the benefits of maintaining a lower center of gravity.

If overly lifted, you’re making yourself even more prone to roll-over, and reduce your tip angles.

I own factory strut spacers, but have never installed them for these and pther related reasons. I have pushed to the absolute limit of tip angle quite a fee times…where that kind of neutral ride height would have tipped me right over…
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom