stripping and painting

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
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Davie, Florida
I am painting my FJ40 and started wire brushing some of the paint off due to some surface rust. Being lazy I decided to go to Advance auto parts and bought their aerosal paint stripper. Well this stuff works awesome, in 6 hours I have stripped the paint off half the vehicle (why bother sand blasting) and cleaned the panels with TSP. The little rust I could find was wire brushed, then I applied naval jelly to all the panels to make sure I rid of any rust I then washed it with fresh water and dried it. Then I brushed OSPHO over all the panels and they are drying overnight.

My question is am I doing this right? Also since I am to bare metal can I go and primer it with Etching primer? Do I have to wipe the ospho down since it was brushed on and not sprayed. Also I have a couple of small dents that need bondo, I assume I should take care of these before the primer. By the way if you need to remove screws or bolts KROIL is amazing stuff.
 
Post pics, I'd like to see that in action. If it were me I'd wash the panels/ tub after all of the rust removal and body work then go over it with a tack rag after everythings done. Not sure if your doing it correctly but if you had posted this in the paint and body section you may get a better response....
 
Howdy! Sounds like fun. If you are buying any of your supplies thru an auto body and paint store, they should be able to coach you on what to do when. I am just a lowly ball can jocky myself. John
 
prime before body filler. (the moisture in the bondo will rust the bare metal ) then spot prime over the body filler to get even coverage. another trick i like is to ligtly spray over the primer with another primer of a different color. just mist it on then block sand the panel. this makes finding dents and low spots much easier. good luck
 
Advance auto parts paint stripper

This stuff sounds easy
I'd like to see pics too

This sounds like a good way to start all the prep work before a new
paint job
 
I would use evercoat not bondo.
i would use your mud over bare metal ( alot of the shops do it this way- given you prep sand and make sure you get all the rust off. Then sand it with 40-80 grit paperfor a good bite and lay your filler.
Things to remember when laying your filler ( store it in a warm area) use it in warn dry weather or it won't cure properly ( in this case it will attract moisture) use the same consistancy of hardener throughout all your filler as you layer. try not to use more than an 1/8" thick.
Remember to always coat your filler with primer after its cured or else when you spray your paint, it will be obsorbed more in those areas than others.

and good luck
 
After removing all the paint I had washed all metal pieces with dialuted Vinegar in order to neutralize acids.
 
If you want to by pass the naval jelly then use phospheric acid(Lowes & Home depot calls it "Prep-N-Etch). Spray it over bare or rusty metal. It instantly nuetralizes rust into iron oxide. I would wipe the panels down with degreaser(the type auto paint suppliers sell). Then scuff the body work areas with a angle die grinder with a 36grit wheel. The apply your bondo(spend the money on the best they have, probably $40.00-50.00 gallon). I was told by a high end body man to apply over bare scuffed metal, not primer. Then epoxy primer. Supposed to lock in extremely well. There's probably several ways, this was how i did mine. Keep asking questions. Good luck
 
I posted the pics on the stripping and scraping thread. I was also told to put the Bondo on the Scraped Metal, otherwise if you put it over the primer and the primer starts to peel then the Bondo will lift up. Bondo is made to impregnate into steel.
 
if there is no rust why are you brining it down to bar metal??? seems pointless....... scuff and paint... maybe if you are doing a 10K paint job
 
I am not stripping the whole vehicle, just the doors. It had a lot of deep scrathes so I wanted to make the surface uniform.
 

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