strengthening chassis - pros and con

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rideglobally

Nullacruiser
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Location
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forum.ih8mud.com
i want to strengthen my chassis by adding a 3/16 or 1/4 inch reinforcement plate in the area where the rear axel mount, basically about 2 feet before where arc begin on the chassis and all through and beyond the arc to the rear, the reinforcement plate will follow the contour of the chassis. this will stiffen the chassis. what are the pro and con of this? i will also install additional shock (rancho 9000 XL) mounted on the outside of the chassis. in about 3 weeks i will receive the custom axel that Diamond axel is building, which will widen my tracks an additional 14 inches from the original 40 series axel. my cruiser is 19 feet bumper to bumper.

here is my build if you want to see it https://forum.ih8mud.com/expedition...ruiser-overland-expedition-9.html#post4802837

thanks
 
Someone used to make a weld-on reinforcement bracket for the area around the forward spring hanger sits. This was intended to compensate for for the stress caused by the hanger being mounted outboard of the frame and the fact that this area collects a fair amount of debris and rusts. Couldn't hurt.

I think someone is currently rebuilding the entire rear of their frame in the 45 section. Good info and a solid approach.
 
i am a big fan ...

of riggid framing.

I DRIVE LIKE A SLUG, though.

Perhaps a few gussets and reinforcements will not hurt you, especially since weight does not seem to be a concern for your rig, considering the pop-top, which i really liked.

if you are high angle rock climbing, the extra weight won't kill you, and spreading out the stresses will help much.

i'd say go for it. or ask a 4x4 shop welder what he or she thinks of your idea. definately someone who is at the end of the trail and does the welding.
 
19' !!! Wow! My crewcab long bed ford is only 21' bumper to bumper.

I added a piece of plate on about half the scale you are considering doing. I had to cause the frame cracked right at the rear spring hangers and the PO had bastardized the mounts for some reason.
 
Possibly two trains of thought here:
1. I bet Toyota would tell you leaving the frame nice and flexible would actually make the vehicle live longer. That's why they made a hot rivited frame, lets the vehicle roll with the punches.
2. Ivan Stewarts frame is as rigid as can be, cost zillions, will probably never flex, and takes more punishment than you can comprehend!!! BUT it is also replaced every year because of endless number of cracks.
 
that is very interesting. do you think a 3/16 inch plate over the chassis will take all the flexes off or should i just leave it alone? and do what Toyota says, i am trying to make my chassis as reliable as it can cause i will be taking it to a lot of deep pot hole, i will not be doing a race across the baja or doing any rock climbing, it is a 8000 pound vehicle..... thanks

Possibly two trains of thought here:
1. I bet Toyota would tell you leaving the frame nice and flexible would actually make the vehicle live longer. That's why they made a hot rivited frame, lets the vehicle roll with the punches.
2. Ivan Stewarts frame is as rigid as can be, cost zillions, will probably never flex, and takes more punishment than you can comprehend!!! BUT it is also replaced every year because of endless number of cracks.
 
i checked your build, it is awesome. are you telling me to just do it.
mech. I will cross that bridge when it arrives. Check my build thread in the 45 section....
 
I had my frame completly boxed when I had it stretched this summer. I not sure why Toyota would box the frame up to the tranny crossbar and not the back. You would think the rear part of the frame would need the extra support. I had the rear section boxed liked the factory (bolted, not riveted) except for the last foot of frame where it was completly replace with a fully welded piece (lots of rust). My frame was a little rough and with the added 27", I think the extra supportwas a good idead. Take a look at my build thread in my sig for pics.
 
Try the Ruff Stuff website, they have the frame boxing kit
 
btw, I utilized fish mouth ends on both ends of the pieces which really helps to avoid cracks later. Somewhat mimics the factory inside box structure of the frame.
 
boxing the chassis

thanks everyone for your input, i am pretty sure i am gonna go ahead and strengthen by chassis, here is what I intent to do to. the first picture shows that my chassis is already boxed from the transfer case to the rear. this was done when the chassis was extended in 1982. the second picture is the pattern of a 3/16 or a 1/4 inch plate that i will weld to the chassis. one question i have is should i put hole on this plate or should i just keep it solid? i think this will pretty much take away any flex on the chassis.... thanks again, let me know what you think
chassi.webp
Pattern.webp
 
I would put holes in the pieces. I did on mine to make it easier to oil spray in the future.
 

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