Stock shock absorber replacement

[40Man]

Anyone tried the Fox 2.5s? Looks like they have a 0"-2" option.

FOX 2.5 Factory Series Coil-Over IFP Shocks

 

[40Man]

Duplicate post.

 

[LC2018]

I replaced the stock shocks and springs with OME after a week. The improvement is very noticeable: I got rid of the body roll on turns and nose dive when braking. It lifted the front 2" so it now rides level on slightly oversized (285/65) KO2 tires

 

[Yossarian]

My application is just wanting to get a good smooth ride with shock/spring replacement

There's the rub. Most aftermarket shock/spring replacements are aimed at off-roading first. Per the OP's question, and your preferences, maybe the Bilsteins would be the ticket? I think even the dealer can order them.

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

I replaced the stock shocks and springs with OME after a week. The improvement is very noticeable: I got rid of the body roll on turns and nose dive when braking. It lifted the front 2" so it now rides level on slightly oversized (285/65) KO2 tires

Very nice. What springs did you end up choosing?

 

[LC2018]

Very nice. What springs did you end up choosing?

2722 Rear and 2702 Front. The Rear still sits about 1/2” higher than the front. Not noticeable at plain sight but measured.

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

2722 Rear and 2702 Front. The Rear still sits about 1/2” higher than the front. Not noticeable at plain sight but measured.

Thanks, looks great!

 

[Sinister]

I replaced the stock shocks and springs with OME after a week. The improvement is very noticeable: I got rid of the body roll on turns and nose dive when braking. It lifted the front 2" so it now rides level on slightly oversized (285/65) KO2 tires

That looks great. Any rubbing with the tires?

 

[LC2018]

That looks great. Any rubbing with the tires?

None

 

[arich]

Are you still running my old Bilsteins? Still all good?

There's the rub. Most aftermarket shock/spring replacements are aimed at off-roading first. Per the OP's question, and your preferences, maybe the Bilsteins would be the ticket? I think even the dealer can order them.

 

[Hammeredsole]

So this would be a good choice for my application over a bilstein set up?

I just finished installing Radflo 2.5 IFP extended travel coilovers, TC UCA's, and OME springs with Radflo 2.5 IFP shocks in the rear. I gained about 1" all around, while just about leveling the truck out. This is exactly what I wanted to maintain CG, ability to pull in low garages, and get the best fuel mileage. I selected OME 2720 rear springs, and went with 600# front springs with 0 preload. The ride is perfectly firmed up, exhibits MUCH less body roll cornering, and still has pretty good road comfort. Wallow is completely gone, and jumps over fast whoops are a single motion event now. Bobbing down the road after a big upset is totally gone.

It was expensive, but absolutely worth it. I saw a black 13-15 LC200 in Dallas a few weeks ago, had an ARB bull bar on the front, and probably some OME 2723 rear springs. Sat like a school bus... WAY too tall.

I paid careful attention to spring selection, as I wanted to keep spring rate increase even across the board. I am not going to run refrigerators, bread machines, washing machines, and shiatsu massage seats in my truck. I added 100# to all 4 corners and much better shocks to get what I was looking for. Slee has an excellent OME/ARB spring chart that shows all of the spring specs, to include free height and spring rates.

I'll try to get better photos soon, but this should show wheel gap pretty well.

 

[Hammeredsole]

After OME 2720 in rear, Radflo 2.5 Coilovers with 600# springs 0 preload in front. No spacers or anything, just springs, shocks, and Total Chaos UCAs.

 

[Sinister]

None

Nice, what load are the KO2?

 

[LC2018]

Nice, what load are the KO2?

LT285/65R18E 125/122R, Load Range E, Max Load 3,640 lbs

 

[Itsky]

I just finished installing Radflo 2.5 IFP extended travel coilovers, TC UCA's, and OME springs with Radflo 2.5 IFP shocks in the rear. I gained about 1" all around, while just about leveling the truck out. This is exactly what I wanted to maintain CG, ability to pull in low garages, and get the best fuel mileage. I selected OME 2720 rear springs, and went with 600# front springs with 0 preload. The ride is perfectly firmed up, exhibits MUCH less body roll cornering, and still has pretty good road comfort. Wallow is completely gone, and jumps over fast whoops are a single motion event now. Bobbing down the road after a big upset is totally gone.

It was expensive, but absolutely worth it. I saw a black 13-15 LC200 in Dallas a few weeks ago, had an ARB bull bar on the front, and probably some OME 2723 rear springs. Sat like a school bus... WAY too tall.

I paid careful attention to spring selection, as I wanted to keep spring rate increase even across the board. I am not going to run refrigerators, bread machines, washing machines, and shiatsu massage seats in my truck. I added 100# to all 4 corners and much better shocks to get what I was looking for. Slee has an excellent OME/ARB spring chart that shows all of the spring specs, to include free height and spring rates.

I'll try to get better photos soon, but this should show wheel gap pretty well.

Thanks for sharing your setup and experience!

What kind of weight have you added and will you commonly carry?

 

[Hammeredsole]

Thanks for sharing your setup and experience!

What kind of weight have you added and will you commonly carry?

Family, luggage, camping equipment if I do that, recovery bag, etc. I might do a dual battery (secondary lithium) and an under hood air compressor. Nothing else as far as heavy bumpers. Etc. I will be adding sliders but that’s about it. Most of my driving is road, fireroads, and I like to explore the random trails in the mountains. I might consider a hidden winch in the future, and if that’s the case I’ll do 650 or 700# front springs.

 

[Markuson]

LT285/65R18E 125/122R, Load Range E, Max Load 3,640 lbs

E rated ride just fine, as long as you tire shop set them to 40 or 41psi rather than sky high as so many shops seem to do.

When I first added 285/70/17s they shoved 58psi in them for some reason and it was like driving a Flintstone mobile. At correct ODI, E-rated are perfectly comfortable.

 

[Sinister]

E rated ride just fine, as long as you tire shop set them to 40 or 41psi rather than sky high as so many shops seem to do.

When I first added 285/70/17s they shoved 58psi in them for some reason and it was like driving a Flintstone mobile. At correct ODI, E-rated are perfectly comfortable.

Mine are currently E as well. Going to down grade that because I don’t tow or rock crawl so the ply is over kill for me.

 

[LC2018]

E rated ride just fine, as long as you tire shop set them to 40 or 41psi rather than sky high as so many shops seem to do.

When I first added 285/70/17s they shoved 58psi in them for some reason and it was like driving a Flintstone mobile. At correct ODI, E-rated are perfectly comfortable.

My tire shop inflated them to the 33PSI recommended in the door plate for stock tires. I noticed the bulge on the side wall so I went with Gaijin's recommendation of 42PSI and it rides great.

 

[Markuson]

My tire shop inflated them to the 33PSI recommended in the door plate for stock tires. I noticed the bulge on the side wall so I went with Gaijin's recommendation of 42PSI and it rides great.

Ya, I couldn't Remember the exact number.
Been a couple years since KO2s for me.

Always trust the PSI Ninja... (@gaijin )