Stock grounding locations

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Jun 30, 2016
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Colorado
i have a 1/73 40. I hope some one could help me out with the stock grounding locations for starter and battery cable. I don't believe there was a ground from engine to frame. I have looked in past threads but can't quite tell by some of the pics. I'm kicking myself for not taking a pic of that when I tore into it.

Thanks for any help
BT
 
Not sure about a 73, but for 76-78 at least, from starter mounting bolt to top of adjacent frame and from battery negative post to outside face of frame near passenger-side shock.
 
There are TWO main grounds:First is the bottom starter bolt to brake tee mounting bolt on frame
Second is Battery - to the same brake tee mounting bolt OR to the starter bottom mounting bolt. This two ground system ensures the frame and the engine are properly grounded. It's also a good idea to run a couple of grounding straps from the frame, to each inner fender so that things bolted to it are grounded properly.
Note: In this pic taken before I got !Oy running, the battery - was grounded to the engine block but it does show the frame ground to starter bolt. This OEM ground wire was Black/Yellow a color combo normally used to denote a + power circuit.

P7180141W.webp
 
There are TWO main grounds:First is the bottom starter bolt to brake tee mounting bolt on frame
Second is Battery - to the same brake tee mounting bolt OR to the starter bottom mounting bolt. This two ground system ensures the frame and the engine are properly grounded. It's also a good idea to run a couple of grounding straps from the frame, to each inner fender so that things bolted to it are grounded properly.
Note: In this pic taken before I got !Oy running, the battery - was grounded to the engine block but it does show the frame ground to starter bolt. This OEM ground wire was Black/Yellow a color combo normally used to denote a + power circuit.

View attachment 1420623
Thank you!! Exactly what I needed.

Coolerman are you still doing wiring harness reworks?

BT
 
Picture detailing what Coolerman says:
upload_2017-3-14_14-45-44.webp


Hole in the top of the frame for negative battery ground. The four bolts on the lower right hold the passenger side fender in place:
upload_2017-3-14_14-46-37.webp


Parts fiche showing what holds the ground cable to the frame:

upload_2017-3-14_14-47-32.webp



Also note that my Jan 1973 has a ground wire within the rear chassis harness that goes from the fuel tank sending unit screw to a bolt on the frame rail.
 
Last edited:
Thanks 73FK40, that clearly shows what I was saying.

FYI ALL rear chassis harnesses, ALL years, have that ground wire. Some years it only grounds the fuel sending unit. Other years it also grounds the 4WD light and later years it also grounded the tail light housings.
 
Thank you!! Exactly what I needed.

Coolerman are you still doing wiring harness reworks?

BT

Yes and no!
I take a break from full harness building, and refurbishments, every spring due to my real job getting really busy. I will pick it back up in the fall when my day job slows down again.

I still sell parts and can build small sub-harnesses like wipers, bib and rear chassis harnesses as time allows.
 
Yes and no!
I take a break from full harness building, and refurbishments, every spring due to my real job getting really busy. I will pick it back up in the fall when my day job slows down again.

I still sell parts and can build small sub-harnesses like wipers, bib and rear chassis harnesses as time allows.


Perfect I have a rear harness that needs some help. Also need connectors for the wiper motor. I will PM you for shipping info.

Can I still use stock wiring harness after Desmog and if so is there any thing I should be aware of?

Last question for awhile. I have used all stainless hardware for resto. Should I change to zinc at grounding to frame at brake line t fitting?

Thanks again for the help
BT


Thank you for all the help
 
A demsog won't affect anything. You will just have more loose wires not connected to anything. If your anal, you can pull the harness and remove them, then re-tape it.

No need to swap out the stainless fasteners. The fastener is really not part of the "electrical circuit". It simply compresses the terminal against the frame or connection point. The terminal is what does the conducting.
 

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