bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Will the Chevy rotor have the same wheel lug bolt pattern as the 6 lug cruiser pattern. Did this on a J**p project and I think it is 5x51/2 bolt pattern. This would be nice if I could keep the same bolt pattern.
STLCA 60 Series Club Thread
- Thread starter Elbert
- Start date
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Will the Chevy rotor have the same wheel lug bolt pattern as the 6 lug cruiser pattern. Did this on a J**p project and I think it is 5x51/2 bolt pattern. This would be nice if I could keep the same bolt pattern.
Yes, Chevy and Toyota are same pattern. All the kits I have looked at use Chevy rotors. The studs are on the hub and the rotor slides over them.
- Thread starter
- #23
From what I've read in the past...a number of people don't think the drive-shaft based parking brakes work very well. There are a few threads on the 60 forum. I believe TSM makes a setup for a drive-shaft based parking brake... I don't recall seeing any real good feedback from anyone who off-roads. I was going to pursue same thing but decided to just sit tight for a while.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Anyone close to Knoxville,Tn that has ever done a cut and turn on a 60? Need to get one done as soon as possible. I am willing to help out and learn how to do this modification. Thanks guys
There is a good write up in the Mud tech links section on doing the cut and turn.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Looked at that write up and I feel like I can do this. Heard from a guy here in Knoxville, Jason Cooper, that you are the man when it comes to anything land cruiser. He owns Rockyour4x4. I posted a thread in the 60's Toyota Tech section "Axle HELP" , could you take a look at this and let me know your thoughts? Thanks Roger
For the 60 guys, I ran another batch of passenger grab bars if anyone is interested.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/424385-fj60-62-passenger-grab-bar.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/424385-fj60-62-passenger-grab-bar.html
Read the write up in the tech section, mostly good info. Pinion angle- pinion needs to be pointed up towards t- case, doing the spring over increase the height of t-case relative to the pinion and therefore increases the drive shaft angle so pointing pinion up decreases the angle. Setting the angle is easy, do the cut on your knuckles heat them and rotate the balls to loosen then instal a third member in housing, loosely bolt axle to springs ( perches are in place but not weld) put jack stands under axle and lower truck. Now use a jack under pinion flange to set pinion angle, tighten u bolts to hold, tack perches then set castor at 7 degrees and tack balls this is also a good time to locate shock mounts and tack them in place. Now pull the housing out and do final welds. I also noted that there was some disagreement on what instrument to use to set angle, I use the handy level app on my I phone.
When you do the spring over You also need to rotate the rear pinion up
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
When I talked to Rob, he said to run the rear pinion at 90* to the frame rail. Perpendicular to the ground 0*. That is if you are running a DC driveshaft. Is this right?
I run mine a few degrees down from pointing at T- case
A friend from Iraq sent me pics of his new ride. Nice interior!
My understanding of the angle is that for a single joint shaft the output flange of the case and input of the diff should be parallel so the two single joints (one on each end) see equal and opposite angles. With a DC you thypically rotate the pinion up towards the case.
That said, I have seen the diffs rotated slightly up using a single joint shaft with not vibration issues. If you have a DC shaft then I would go ahead and rotate bthe pinion up towards the case.
- Thread starter
- #34
ok...60 owners...
I may have said something about this issue in the past (here or on the main board)...anyway.
When the temps get colder...like today. My 60 is hell to start and I mean the key is hell to turn. It turn easy to the acc on position but I'm almost at the point of breaking the key before it will go to the next position which is engine start. I've been told spray with WD40 or spray with (lubricant..names escapes me as I write this...)...I've done neither so far and today when I started the truck I was reminded of my continued stupidity.
I don't follow how this condition is temp related but it sure is. No problem in the summer. Anyone had this issue and if so what is the known solution. I'm not kidding when I say the key is extremely hard to turn to engage the starter. I've thought a few times the key would break.
I don't follow how wd40 or the other lubricant will solve this...maybe it does but seems like there is not connection between the temp and using a lubricant spray.... is the real question....How dumb am I?
Anyone?
I may have said something about this issue in the past (here or on the main board)...anyway.
When the temps get colder...like today. My 60 is hell to start and I mean the key is hell to turn. It turn easy to the acc on position but I'm almost at the point of breaking the key before it will go to the next position which is engine start. I've been told spray with WD40 or spray with (lubricant..names escapes me as I write this...)...I've done neither so far and today when I started the truck I was reminded of my continued stupidity.
I don't follow how this condition is temp related but it sure is. No problem in the summer. Anyone had this issue and if so what is the known solution. I'm not kidding when I say the key is extremely hard to turn to engage the starter. I've thought a few times the key would break.
I don't follow how wd40 or the other lubricant will solve this...maybe it does but seems like there is not connection between the temp and using a lubricant spray.... is the real question....How dumb am I?
Anyone?
Mine does this too. I don't have much experience with automotive locks but I have re keyed hundreds of home locks. they are packed with graphite in the tumblers that is used as a lubricant. over time it turns to a paste insteed of power. I am guessing this is whats happening in our old trucks. the wd-40 is probably washing the old graphite away.
Andy you are correct, I had a ignition switch that was hard to turn and would stick in the start position if I wasn't careful, flushed it with WD40 and it worked flawlessly for years after. I will say it was a bit messy but worth it.
97 4runner
86 4runner
STLCA
APPALACHIA CRUISERS
97 4runner
86 4runner
STLCA
APPALACHIA CRUISERS
Mine sticks in the cold also. Like Andy said, might be due to dissimilar metals that shrink at different rates in the cold. Tolerances change basically. I always put a few squirts of juice in it.
- Thread starter
- #38
I'll do the wd40 thing this weekend to see what happens. I've thought a few times on the trail (in the cold) that the key was about done for. I'll post up to let people know if it shows clear improvement once we get some colder weather.
I think the local locksmith guy told me to use WD40...I just never have...so far. I guess its like anything else...you actually have to get motivated or be the dumb@$$
I think the local locksmith guy told me to use WD40...I just never have...so far. I guess its like anything else...you actually have to get motivated or be the dumb@$$
- Thread starter
- #39
I sprayed the ign lock with Wd40 the other day and we will see tomorrow how much if any improvement there is. I'm concerned about breaking the key off in the ign cylinder.
Other known solutions? Can you simply get a new ign lock switch for the steering column and get a new key ? I thought I read somewhere that for some reason this was not an option??? anyone know
Other known solutions? Can you simply get a new ign lock switch for the steering column and get a new key ? I thought I read somewhere that for some reason this was not an option??? anyone know
Not sure on the 60, but on my mini I swapped from a non-tilt to a tilt column and I had to follow a sequence using the keys to remove the old cylinder from the tilt and swap in my cylinder into the tilt so I could keep my old key in the new column. Not sure that helps, but I would expect there has to be a way to swap the cylinders. Would just end up with a two-key setup.
