Still won't start

[bernefj60]

Chris,

I would bet that if you pulled the distributor, it's off by 180. roll the motor to TDC. Pull the cap. If the rotor is pointing at #4, you're close, if not, you're 180 off. Where are you located? Maybe there's someone close that can help.

Also, check engine fuse.

Rob

 

[cwb]

I'm gonna check timing, but can anybody tell me now timing could be off when I haven't touched the distributor and it was running fine before? I also haven't touched the hold down bolt.

I'll check it anyway and get back with you guys. I'm sure you're all curious.

 

[cwb]

I checked the timing. With the rotor pointing toward #1 on the cap, the No. 1 piston is at TDC and both valves are closed, which indicates it's on the compression stroke, right? So it appears to be in time. I've ordered new plug wires just for kicks, but as I said, the plugs are firing. Maybe they aren't firing aggressively enough.

Other suggestions?

 

[bernefj60]

I checked the timing. With the rotor pointing toward #1 on the cap, the No. 1 piston is at TDC and both valves are closed, which indicates it's on the compression stroke, right? So it appears to be in time. I've ordered new plug wires just for kicks, but as I said, the plugs are firing. Maybe they aren't firing aggressively enough.

Other suggestions?

huh, when you adjusted the valves, what was the sequence you followed? I can't imagine that would be the problem, but i remember adjusting my valves once in the dark (don't ask) and getting mixed up. Truck would start, but barely. Maybe you got it flip-flopped?

when you say you're getting spark- -how are your testing it?

rob

 

[dogboy2]

Overheated and blew head gasket on my '87 60 which has fresh head and carb rebuild, and desmogged.

did you just desmog the engine along with the head/carb rebuild? If so, I'm wondering (and guessing) if there is a vacuum port/hose/etc... that didn't get plugged when all of the emissions parts were removed, leaving you with a big vacuum leak. I'm also guessing that your carb would need to have been rebuilt to suit the running conditions of the desmogged engine and not rebuilt as per factory specs with emissions. Did you replace the accelerator pump during your carb rebuild as well?

it's a little baffleling that it won't fire at all when you pour fuel directly down the carb, but hey, what do I know? I'm just an weekend mechanic with too many tools and too little everyday experience

it's all trial by fire, and I've got the scar tissue and burns to prove it

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[cwb]

I've looked around for vacuum leaks and can't see anything. As for the carb, it was rebuilt by Jim C and ran fine for a week before I overheated.

The next logical step is to check for compression. A guy told me today I might have crystallized the rings when I overheated it. I'm going to borrow a compression tester and see.

 

[cwb]

Okay, gentlemen, I feel pretty stupid. The reason I couldn't get it started is because the distributor was turned. I was sure that wasn't the problem because I was sure I hadn't done anything to the dist. But I must have loosened the hold-down bolt and turned it. When I turned it to the opposite side of the notch, it started right up.

However, now I've got a different problem because it won't stay running. It's fuel delivery. I had plugs on all three of the small vacuum ports at the bottom of the carb facing the engine. One of them is for vacuum advance and I'm not sure what the other two are for. But, anyway, fuel is coming out them. Now this shouldn't be happening, should it? What's the problem, do you think?

I'm really close!