Sticky brake pads (1 Viewer)

[Bagheera]

hello all,

I'm fairly new here (though have been lurking for a while) and I have a issue with newly replaced brakes. I have been searching for the last couple of hours on this forum, but have not been able to find an answer or any suggestions as to what it might be.

I have an 1986 FJ60 which is in a pretty standard condition. It has been extremely poorly maintained and is in need of a complete off-frame rebuilt/restoration, at this point I just need to keep it rolling as I need it for work and hopefully in the spring I will get time to start a re-built.

One of the very bad things on this vehicle was the brakes. So I just replaced rear drums, brake shoes, front rotors, calipers and brake pads all which were worn way beyond acceptable. The issue I'm finding now is that the front brakes loosen up to slow after releasing the brake pedal, resulting in rotors that run way to warm. At times it takes as much as a full minute or even longer before the brake pads reduce their pressure on the rotor. Calipers and brake pistons are all new as well as the rotors and the pads. DS and PS seem to have both the same problem, making me think that it is higher up in the system.
Where do I start troubleshooting? The rear brakes are functioning normal and are not running warm.

Thanks in advance.

PS forgive me if this has already been dealt with somewhere else on the forum, in that case, can someone please get me a link to that specific threat?

 

[Seth S]

Make sure that the brake pads slide smoothly on the calipers and along the hardware. If the front brakes aren't releasing its more a function of the caliper and less the pad unless the pads themselves are so wedged in that they stick in place. Where did you get the calipers from?

 

[Bagheera]

I got them from cruiser Corp (Oklahoma) as well as the pads.

When they were laying on the workbench they slid easily. Do you folks generally lubricate the surfaces where the pads touch the sliding hardware? They do release, but it does take way to long and both sides pretty much equally.

 

[Seth S]

Did the loaded calipers slide over the rotors easily? Sometimes the pads are too thick

 

[Freewheel]

How old is your master cylinder? if you've replaced everything else that was overdue, you may want to also replace the heart of your stopping power. (I wonder whether the front circuit is not releasing pressure properly when you let off the brake pedal)

 

[Bagheera]

Yes the calipers did slide on very easy, no resistance at all.

I suspect that the master cylinder is still the original one. It is on the list to be replaced, but I was hoping to postpone that until i do the complete re-built.

 

[cheeese]

Check your slide pins/sliding surfaces and use a brake and rubber safe lubricant like Silglyde if needed.

 

[Seth S]

Yes the calipers did slide on very easy, no resistance at all.

I suspect that the master cylinder is still the original one. It is on the list to be replaced, but I was hoping to postpone that until i do the complete re-built.

I got a rebuilt Aisin master off of Rockauto.com for very reasonable monies. Swapping it out and bleeding the brakes didn't that that long and now I have nice working brakes and nice clean fluid.

 

[Bagheera]

I got a rebuilt Aisin master off of Rockauto.com for very reasonable monies. Swapping it out and bleeding the brakes didn't that that long and now I have nice working brakes and nice clean fluid.

Thank you for the tip. The problem is that my brake system (and other systems too) has so much rust that I will have a hell of a time to just disconnect it. What would have been a normal 1 day job on caliper, rotor, shoes and drum replacement turned into a 3,5 day ordeal because of all the rust and damaged bolts and connections that I had to deal with. So if I can avoid a lot of extra work I would really like that and than I will deal with it in the spring when I will replace everything that needs replacing on the entire car.

I will first try the solution with lubricating the running hardware of the calipers. If that doesn't work I might look into replacing the master cylinder. I will report back here when I found a working solution.

 

[Seth S]

Well....the good thing is that you already replaced all the difficult bits. Odds are pretty good that the threaded fittings on your current MC will have been protected in their current location. And with new calipers the bleeder valves should move easily and you have nice clean fluid from bleeding everything. Also note there is no need to bench bleed the new MC.

this was the one I ordered:

 

[Bagheera]

Well....the good thing is that you already replaced all the difficult bits. Odds are pretty good that the threaded fittings on your current MC will have been protected in their current location.

Under the hood does look a lot better indeed, but I do not have good results with "easily" removing things from this car.

Also note there is no need to bench bleed the new MC.

Is there a change in design with the newer ones that this is not required anymore? Not that bench bleeding is that big of a deal, but he, all bits of time saving helps!

Thank you for all your input, it is much appreciated.

 

[Bagheera]

The problem is solved now so I wanted to give you guys feedback as to the solution that did the job.
First i tried the easy way and just lubricate the sliding hardware. It did help but not sufficiently. So I did opt to replace the MC and now they work like a charm. I still got some stubborn air somewhere in the system, but I hope that will go away by itself. If not, fine too, the whole car will be taken apart in a few months from now.