Sticker shock

[hickuptruck]

get the lexus part numbers and call toyota lol, I did the caliper mounting bolts on my wife's gs400 from lexus they were like 8 bucks a piece , from toyota they were 2.14 each for the very same bolt

They are the same part numbers on the 100 for the Lexus and Toyota.

 

[lexussparemyfam]

They are the same part numbers on the 100 for the Lexus and Toyota.

....however Toyota dealers (the 8 or 9 I've called) typically wont look up your lexus parts, so you call lexus, get the parts numbers and then call a toyota dealership and and buy the very same toyota part at toyota prices instead of the lexus markup.Or call up toyota and say you got a landcruiser, whatever works.

 

[04UZJ100]

Expensive cars have expensive parts.

 

[OwnerCS]

I often find 100 series parts to be less than a comparable year Tacoma. Here's a new OEM steering rack price comparison.

1999 model 100 Series $475.71 vs. Tacoma at $498.18

Same year Tacoma

 

[MJK]

Toyota makes plenty of cars that are designed to be cheap to run. The 100 isn't one of them. And it doesn't drive like one either.

Learn to wrench. Its fun, or at the very least therapeutic, and saves a ton of cash.

 

[spc7669]

I’ll go kinda middle of the road. I’m not great at wrenching nor do I have a lot of tools or much of a garage. I’ve learned to do some stuff and enjoyed it. A lot of things, I’ve taken to my mechanic.
Find a local guy you can trust. I’ve had the same guy for 19 years now. I know what he charges. He does a diagnosis and tells me how many hours. I source the parts. He also lets me watch/assist which has shot the learning curve through the roof.
When I look at my 99 LC, I see it as a $90K vehicle if purchased new that I get to own for the cost of maintenance. It’s all a matter of perspective.

 

[hoser]

Expensive cars have expensive parts.

The cost of these parts are quite quite reasonable compared to European makes. Labor too.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Well a $67k msrp car will have the repair bills of a $67k msrp car, not one of a $13k car.

If it makes you feel any better, some people on here have $15-20k into their 100 series that cost them $6k. I personally have spent 1.8x the purchase price of my 100 on just parts, repair and little things, not counting modifications

Agreed.

Paid ~$13k for my 06LX and after 10 months of ownership I'm into it an additional $17k and counting with lots of maintenance and baselining left - and that's with 100% DIY except a fraction of the paint/body work. And not counting the Air Down Gear Up SS1 system since I just pulled that out of inventory.

These are awesome rigs, even with some mileage, but they are not cheap. Not a money-pit, but not cheap.

 

[Ambledog]

1. Make sure you understand the condition of your purchase before you commit. And the costs of fixing all those problems.
2. If you overpaid for the purchase, then regret will set in when you find what needs to be fixed.
3. Learn how to DIY, or budget for someone else to do the work if you have the money.
4. Don't throw parts at problems. Learn to diagnose.
5. Cheap vehicles have cheap parts. The Land Cruiser isn't one of those.
6. You can get cheap parts for a Land Cruiser, but they usually cost you more in the long run.
7. Realistically, if money is tight, this might not be the vehicle for you.

I bought a well maintained LC, I missed a couple things that I should have caught before buying, but committed to do 100% of the work myself before I even looked at one. I've never owned anything bigger than a Toyota pickup, Honda Accord, small and cheap vehicles. No 4x4's. So this was a whole new ball game. Part of ownership satisfaction for me has been learning, buying tools, and fixing everything within my ability. I've paid for a few things to be done by mechanics, but only maybe 15% of the total cost of repairs and maintenance.

 

[Bismarck]

I would also sprinkle in an ounce of optimism -- you should consider that everything you're looking at replacing (even assuming it's an accurate assessment) needs to be done every 100K plus miles...

Mine has had zero (and I mean zero) unplanned repairs in 100K miles and 10-11 years (now at 191K)... Just maintenance and consumables (TB/WP, brakes, shocks, fluids, filters, spark plugs).

 

[jLB]

Hey there, I bought a 2006 land cruiser with 130k miles in January with a great service history.
<snip>

This came out to $4300! This is close to 1/3 what I paid for this vehicle and as much as I love the truck it really has me questioning using this as my daily driver when I haven’t even added in labor. How do you guys justify this?

I think the point that you’re missing, is that the reason that you got a 2006 LC, w/ 130k mi, for ~$12,900, is that it was going to need a little work.

I currently have three 100 series in the driveway. One was purchased new, the other two were purchased used. Both of the used ones required a little “catch up” on maintenance to make them “right”, but then again the initial purchase price was much lower too.

 

[lexussparemyfam]

Agreed.

Paid ~$13k for my 06LX and after 10 months of ownership I'm into it an additional $17k and counting with lots of maintenance and baselining left - and that's with 100% DIY except a fraction of the paint/body work. And not counting the Air Down Gear Up SS1 system since I just pulled that out of inventory.

These are awesome rigs, even with some mileage, but they are not cheap. Not a money-pit, but not cheap.

The wife got her 01 for about 5k with interest. Had 197,xxx miles. So far I've changed the oil twice...she says the brake warning lights and vsc come on all the time but she's had 0 brake issues or suspension gremlins in about 16 months of ownership,mind you we only drive it in the winter,because **** paying for premium gas at 14mpg when you don't actually need to have a big heavy 4x4 and the gs400 gets 25mpg

 

[ramangain]

Just wait until you get sticker shock of parts for that E60 M5 you think you stole for $18k. Vaseline NOT included.

 

[ranma21]

The LC is not a cheap vehicle to start with. Bear in mind you bought a used truck that depreciate over the years but new OE Toyota replacement parts are not. Replacing both CV Axles will set you back close to $2k with parts and labor including repacking bearings and replacing all the gaskets/seals with proper love and work done to your truck. If you are replacing all the front ends bushings and rear coil springs, the quote is about right. The 4 control arms bushings, stabilizer bushings, diff control arms and diff bushings is another $1k just for parts.

If you have the tools and time and willing to DIY then by all means DIY and just buy parts and save on labor. If you think LC parts and labor are high, wait til you own a BMW or RR.

I just did a bunch of work on a customer 99 LC with 164k miles, replacing both fronts cvs, all new gaskets and seals, replace bearings, needle bearing and bush, all new hardwares, new flanges, new flanges stud, washers, nuts, replace starter and connectors, replace ignition rod bracket, replace drive belt, replace diffs & transfer fluids, flush power steering and transmission, replace rack and pinion boot and clamp, replace lower ball joints and reboot upper ball joints, replace heater T, replace coolant temp sensor and connector, diagnose no start issue and replace transponder sensor, cooling system flush, grease driveline. We use only Genuine Toyota parts and repair to factory spec. over $4k in repair.

Have another 2000 in right away doing similar and more work with only 109k miles. Goal is to restore it to mechanical sound condition, replacing parts that may fail due to age and also correcting previous shop mistake and bring the LC back to top condition to eliminate breakdown for the next 100k miles. We are replacing, cv axles, all seals/ gasket, starter, upgrade to 130amp 03+ alternator, radiator, heater T and all heater and radiator hoses, thermostat with gasket, fuel filter, air filter, cabin filter, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ignition rod, pvc hoses, vacumn lines, all fluids. So the owner can take the truck to anywhere with not much worry about breaking down. This is the first phrase of the restoration, next we will be replacing the brake booster master cylinder assembly and main fusebox as well as all the control arms and diff bushings. Again only Genuine Toyota parts, no cheap aftermarket parts will be used to save few pennies down to the cotter pin. It is always fun to bring the cruiser back to its glory =)

 

[golfer2000]

I'd be happy that you got such a great deal on the truck. Learn to do the work on your own and you'll stay out on top.

 

[LXKevin]

@ranma21
Are you saving on labor by paying your helpers with those peanut butter patties by the case.

 

[jerryb]

consumables. Cost plus 15, billed to client!

 

[aggiepaintrain]

Be thankful you don’t own a leaky 80 series with sloppy steering you have no idea what pain is

 

[OwnerCS]

The LC is not a cheap vehicle to start with. Bear in mind you bought a used truck that depreciate over the years but new OE Toyota replacement parts are not. Replacing both CV Axles will set you back close to $2k with parts and labor including repacking bearings and replacing all the gaskets/seals with proper love and work done to your truck. If you are replacing all the front ends bushings and rear coil springs, the quote is about right. The 4 control arms bushings, stabilizer bushings, diff control arms and diff bushings is another $1k just for parts.

If you have the tools and time and willing to DIY then by all means DIY and just buy parts and save on labor. If you think LC parts and labor are high, wait til you own a BMW or RR.

I just did a bunch of work on a customer 99 LC with 164k miles, replacing both fronts cvs, all new gaskets and seals, replace bearings, needle bearing and bush, all new hardwares, new flanges, new flanges stud, washers, nuts, replace starter and connectors, replace ignition rod bracket, replace drive belt, replace diffs & transfer fluids, flush power steering and transmission, replace rack and pinion boot and clamp, replace lower ball joints and reboot upper ball joints, replace heater T, replace coolant temp sensor and connector, diagnose no start issue and replace transponder sensor, cooling system flush, grease driveline. We use only Genuine Toyota parts and repair to factory spec. $4700 repair.

Have another 2000 in right away doing similar and more work with only 109k miles. Goal is to restore it to mechanical sound condition, replacing parts that may fail due to age and also correcting previous shop mistake and bring the LC back to top condition to eliminate breakdown for the next 100k miles. We are replacing, cv axles, all seals/ gasket, starter, upgrade to 130amp 03+ alternator, radiator, heater T and all heater and radiator hoses, thermostat with gasket, fuel filter, air filter, cabin filter, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ignition rod, pvc hoses, vacumn lines, all fluids. So the owner can take the truck to anywhere with not much worry about breaking down. This is the first phrase of the restoration, next we will be replacing the brake booster master cylinder assembly and main fusebox as well as all the control arms and diff bushings. Again only Genuine Toyota parts, no cheap aftermarket parts will be used to save few pennies down to the cotter pin. It is always fun to bring the cruiser back to its glory =)

View attachment 2483162

View attachment 2483163

Looks like some people that are maintaining their vehicles like a piece of "valuable commercial equipment" to maintain a "service level expectation". I'm sure the owners are happy people.

 

[ranma21]

@ranma21
Are you saving on labor by paying your helpers with those peanut butter patties by the case.

Lol trade secrets!!

Nah, I have a Girl Scout, so we have lots of empty boxes and I love those boxes, very sturdy. I ship parts with it. Some of you may have received parts from me in GS cookie boxes