Stevo's '95 4BTRunner (1 Viewer)

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I also was able to grab a hydroboost system from a local junkyard for $100 so while waiting for other things to come in I figured I would at least get it installed.

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I'll be eliminating the combination valve and RWAL valve and running a proportioning valve to adjust the rear brakes.
I used the existing backing plate with the standoff mount on the hydroboost to get it positioned in the engine bay but ran into a couple snags.


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I then adjusted the bracket, to adjust it down. It brought it down in the engine bay, but what I should have done is referenced my old build thread. This has the nitrogen cylinder right next to the intake so it will be tough to get that boot in. The last time I did this made a bracket that keeps it close to the firewall.

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After doing all that I decided to do this lol. Make some new brackets to bring the booster right to the firewall.

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I think the custom fabricated bracket will come out looking a lot cleaner anyhow.
 
Radiator is back from the shop, I paid to have the bottom port moved from the left hand side to the way bottom. If the "through-flow" doesn't send enough coolant to the left hand side of the system, I'll install a "scoop" to divert the flow that way.

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Installed:

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I will be switching to a "top outlet" thermostat housing for the 4BT to keep the upper coolant hose out of the fan and better positioned. I'll also hopefully get all the spaghetti wiring thinned out soon and get down to a minimum relay and fuse panel. Does anyone who has cleaned up their engine wiring have any suggestions on a combo fuse-relay box?

While the radiator was drying out, I finished my Hydroboost bracket

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I made sure test fit before final welding and paint
Installed on the Hydroboost master/booster with the Toyota brake connection welded on.

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Fully installed.

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This puts the booster right against the firewall, which gives me a lot more space on the intake of the engine. I am very happy with how it turned out.
 
Next thing on my list is to get the engine ready to fire off the key, so I had to come up with some radiator lines.
I am going to do a full system flush, my heater core is a little blocked up so hopefully I can backflush it and get that working.

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Fortunately I had some old hoses around to cobble them together for the flushing process, the lower hose has a valve in it for now to make the multiple cycles easier.
Once everything is all cleaned out ill come up with the more permanent solutions.

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Batteries needed a home in the fenders so I drew up a couple battery boxes, cut em out and welded them up.

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Nice secure fit for my battery size:

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They fit nice in the fenders.

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Painted

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Set in place, once the paint dries ill bolt them in and get the batteries in their permanent homes.

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And while I was digging around in the random parts I had accumulated, I happened upon a 14cm2 wastegated housing for a HX35.
Then I got to thinking if one turbo is good, surely 2 would be better? I have a HX35 that was free from a friend, I also have plenty of room above my starter to make all the connections for turbo #2

just started messing around with locations, and attempt number one was made while I was home away from the truck so it didn't work out.

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After looking at the truck and how things sit today, ill be going with a more conventional hot pipe to get the second turbo where I want it and then brace that off of the block.

Fortunately there is a scrap metal yard right next door to the shop and I keep the manager well stocked in custom gins and aged rum. So i get a nice discount.
Picked these up.

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Ordered all of the vband flanges tonight. hopefully it will all come together soon.
 
That's a big turbine housing. Can't wait to see it come together.
I figure I wont have to worry about it choking at higher RPM, I do have a 12cm2 housing, but according to what I have been reading on 4btswaps, the 14cm2 would be a better fit for the super hx30.

Eventually I was going to do head studs and the compounds, this just gives me an excuse to do the studs if I blow a head gasket.

When I do wrap it up i'll have to take a trip out to Durham.
 
Coming along nice congrats it’s looking really good.
Thanks, its been a fun pandemic project for me. I'm really hoping to get this wrapped up by the summertime. Can't wait to drive it around.
 
So a question for some of those that have been running compounds @GLTHFJ60 @boots4 @The Phoenician

I have read through a bunch of the compound turbo threads over on 4BTSwaps, and have noticed that in time things seems to be shifting as to being "required" or not for running a compound turbo setup on a 4BT. So I came up with a few questions that I wanted to ask those in the know, to help make sure the build I have planned goes well.

1. I have read that for running compounds I should install a 6BT Oil pump and Cooler, however in other posts I have read that turbos don't require a large volume of oil and the stock units are fine. I am planning a super hx30 6cm2 over a HX35. Would the larger cooler/pump be required?

2. I have multiple exhaust housings for the HX35. I have a 12cm2 non-wastegated, 12cm2 wastegated, and 14cm2 wastegated housing, (All free and in good shape) which would be best to run for overall drivability? I am looking to be in the 250-300hp range for power, not looking for an all out race build. I am at sea level, but do take trips up to the mountains sometimes.

Thanks in advance for any input on this.
 
Here are my thoughts on your questions:

1. I've been running the stock 4bt oil pump and cooler set up with no oiling issues. I don't think that's a required mod, at least my experience has been that it's not needed.
2. With the tuning I've done I'd go with the 14cm2 wastegated housing. I've got my big turbo up around 16 or 17 size right now and can hit 60+ psi with fuel setting's I've played with and how my turbos play together.

For required: I'd say head studs are necessary with a religious retorquing of the head. For this power range out of a 4bt a good intercooler is also needed. Of course gauges (EGT, large turbo boost, total boost). Nice to have/ possible required would be a fuel pin to get the fueling needed. Injectors may be needed but I'd at least tune with what you have first to get to know how adjustments impact performance. Another required will be time for tuning. It takes some time to get to know your set up with your driving style where you drive. Expect to make many adjustments over time to dial it down to what you are looking for. Some adjustments will cause other adjustments to be needed. It's all part of the education. Plan for a good free flowing air filter and pulling from outside air if possible (I'm still working on that one myself).
 
Here are my thoughts on your questions:

1. I've been running the stock 4bt oil pump and cooler set up with no oiling issues. I don't think that's a required mod, at least my experience has been that it's not needed.
2. With the tuning I've done I'd go with the 14cm2 wastegated housing. I've got my big turbo up around 16 or 17 size right now and can hit 60+ psi with fuel setting's I've played with and how my turbos play together.

For required: I'd say head studs are necessary with a religious retorquing of the head. For this power range out of a 4bt a good intercooler is also needed. Of course gauges (EGT, large turbo boost, total boost). Nice to have/ possible required would be a fuel pin to get the fueling needed. Injectors may be needed but I'd at least tune with what you have first to get to know how adjustments impact performance. Another required will be time for tuning. It takes some time to get to know your set up with your driving style where you drive. Expect to make many adjustments over time to dial it down to what you are looking for. Some adjustments will cause other adjustments to be needed. It's all part of the education. Plan for a good free flowing air filter and pulling from outside air if possible (I'm still working on that one myself).

Hey thanks for the quick reply,

I'll plan on running the stock 4bt stuff for now in terms of oiling, if my pressures are low I can always swap in a 6bt pump.
I'll plan on swapping the 14cm2 onto the hx35 and see how that works.

I have decent sized intercooler, but I wont be able to see how it responds until I get it installed and get some time behind the wheel.

I do have 5x.012 injectors, and a fuel pin, but I think I might want to start slow and limit my fueling to keep my boost around 40psi until I can get some head studs. Gauges will definitely be installed to be able to monitor what's happening at each turbo.

I am planning on making an air box to pull cooler air from my fender, and I hope ceramic coating all the exhaust in the engine bay will help with keeping some of the engine bay temps down.

How often do you suggest retorquing?
 
Just at the beginning for torqueing the head. When I converted to studs I did two rounds cold, ran it to warm up, retorqued after that and then ran it like normal for a week, and then retorqued again. I know it sounds overkill but I haven't lost a head gasket yet to high boost so it must have helped.

Sounds like you've got things in order to me and good idea on starting out light and then adding in the fuel just to be on the safe side.
 
1. I'm also running the stock 4BT oil pump. ~18psi oil pressure at hot idle. Seems to be fine.

2. IMO the smaller turbine housing. You can always set the wastegate to open sooner.

IIRC you can overtorque the stock head bolts by 20# or so. Do that once cold, then once hot after a few heat cycles.
 
Currently running the 4bt oil pump. It works fine however in the Texas summer days when i get on the engine or cruise at highway speeds my temps go up. I'm already running the largest radiator i can fit in there, rated for builds of 500hp and three fans. So my next move after i return from this deployment is to add an oil cooler with a thermostat. That seems to work fine on my 40 with the 350 engine.
Like already mentioned, get good head studs, had a head gasket fail on me once when I hit about 50psi.
 
Just at the beginning for torqueing the head. When I converted to studs I did two rounds cold, ran it to warm up, retorqued after that and then ran it like normal for a week, and then retorqued again. I know it sounds overkill but I haven't lost a head gasket yet to high boost so it must have helped.

Sounds like you've got things in order to me and good idea on starting out light and then adding in the fuel just to be on the safe side.

Thank you very much, yeah definitely will be progressing with lots of tuning. I know it will take a while to get it dialed in and should have just done studs from the start.

1. I'm also running the stock 4BT oil pump. ~18psi oil pressure at hot idle. Seems to be fine.

2. IMO the smaller turbine housing. You can always set the wastegate to open sooner.

IIRC you can overtorque the stock head bolts by 20# or so. Do that once cold, then once hot after a few heat cycles.

Good to hear the 4bt oil pump should hold up, and thanks for the tip about overtorquing the head bolts, I will definitely be doing that.

Currently running the 4bt oil pump. It works fine however in the Texas summer days when i get on the engine or cruise at highway speeds my temps go up. I'm already running the largest radiator i can fit in there, rated for builds of 500hp and three fans. So my next move after i return from this deployment is to add an oil cooler with a thermostat. That seems to work fine on my 40 with the 350 engine.
Like already mentioned, get good head studs, had a head gasket fail on me once when I hit about 50psi.

I'm in NC so I'm hoping the heat won't be too much in the summertime, and glad to hear another person saying the 4bt oil pump should work. I do have a 6bt pump just in case, but if I don't have to tear into the engine again before I get it running I would prefer to wait and drive it a bit. I definitely will be limiting my PSI to about 40 at least until I get some studs.
 
For when I do get head studs, which are recommended the ARP2000 series or the ARP625+?
Just so I can figure out how much to start setting aside for them.
 
The 2000 series are plenty for the power level you're going for. That's what we're all running.
 
The 2000 series are plenty for the power level you're going for. That's what we're all running.

That's what I was hoping to hear!
 
So upon further reflection, I will be holding off on the compounds for the time being. They will definitely be something I want to do in the future, but in order to make them work well now I would need to add too many additional things to the build. The Engine would need studs, the LP turbo needs a rebuild, I would need to totally redo my PS fender, make a hot pipe, oil line, drain, mount the turbo and do all the additional intercooler piping.

I'm past ready to get it driving so I will be reserving that for part 2.0 of the build.
For now I am working on getting it ready to fire on the key and get it running and driving. I have both batteries installed and the wiring thinned out a bit, but I still need to route everything cleaner and make sure things are working.
At this point everything on the engine is accessible which is really nice. PSC kit for the hydroboost is on the way, next will be that and the clutch system.

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