Very interested in a solution. My 2011 LC200 seems to be developing this.
Steering rack or column play or clunk? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter arich
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Partsouq was about $850 shipped, so not a huge difference.
Amayama was using a source out of UAE, but with slower shipping than Partsouq.
Have used both with good results.
Amayama was using a source out of UAE, but with slower shipping than Partsouq.
Have used both with good results.
I fixed the clunk in my steering wheel by replacing both intermediate shafts and the grommet/bushing/boot (Toyota calls it a coupling shield) where they enter the firewall. Parts 6, 7, 8 on the diagram.
The job was not difficult. The hardest part was trying to remove the fender well splash guard without breaking the clips (failed).
It turns out both intermediate shafts felt and functioned like the new parts when held in hand. Only the upper (#1) intermediate shaft has a slip joint on it. The #2 intermediate shaft has a metal bellows on it, but my guess is that the bellows is designed to collapse in a crash. So the problem PROBABLY did not lie in either of the intermediate shafts.
However, the coupling shield (rubber boot on the firewall) was torn around its circumference where it holds the intermediate shaft. It's actually fairly thick, with double-wall construction and a circle of thick foam to reinforce it. Mine was torn on the engine compartment side. I'm guessing it is designed to control some of the bounce or vibration in the shaft when going over bumps, so the damage probably allowed too much movement in the shaft.
Total cost for all the parts was about $325 shipped to my door in 2 business days from Partsouq. The coupler shield by itself was less than $40 before shipping. Could have been a very cheap fix, but I wasn't sure which part was the culprit.
The job was not difficult. The hardest part was trying to remove the fender well splash guard without breaking the clips (failed).
It turns out both intermediate shafts felt and functioned like the new parts when held in hand. Only the upper (#1) intermediate shaft has a slip joint on it. The #2 intermediate shaft has a metal bellows on it, but my guess is that the bellows is designed to collapse in a crash. So the problem PROBABLY did not lie in either of the intermediate shafts.
However, the coupling shield (rubber boot on the firewall) was torn around its circumference where it holds the intermediate shaft. It's actually fairly thick, with double-wall construction and a circle of thick foam to reinforce it. Mine was torn on the engine compartment side. I'm guessing it is designed to control some of the bounce or vibration in the shaft when going over bumps, so the damage probably allowed too much movement in the shaft.
Total cost for all the parts was about $325 shipped to my door in 2 business days from Partsouq. The coupler shield by itself was less than $40 before shipping. Could have been a very cheap fix, but I wasn't sure which part was the culprit.
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Do you have a part # for part #8 on the diagram (boot)? What's required just to swap that? Does it get any special grease applied when you install it?
Mine has been squeaking when I turn the wheel when stopped or at low speed (i.e. when parking). If I pull the boot up I can spray some silicone lube at the base, which quiets it for a few days/weeks, but eventually the noise comes back.
Mine has been squeaking when I turn the wheel when stopped or at low speed (i.e. when parking). If I pull the boot up I can spray some silicone lube at the base, which quiets it for a few days/weeks, but eventually the noise comes back.
I'm on mobile, so I can't see your sig, but part number depends on your model year. 45025-60170 is the part for 2008-11 vehicles.
Replacing it involves match-marking your steering shafts, unbolting and removing the upper intermediate shaft, and then removing the 4 or so bolts/nuts holding the rubber boot in place. Not difficult, and you can have it done in less than an hour. Just don't turn the steering wheel with the shaft removed. I didn't apply any grease to mine.
Replacing it involves match-marking your steering shafts, unbolting and removing the upper intermediate shaft, and then removing the 4 or so bolts/nuts holding the rubber boot in place. Not difficult, and you can have it done in less than an hour. Just don't turn the steering wheel with the shaft removed. I didn't apply any grease to mine.
Thanks. Looks like the 2013-2020 models use part 45025-60190. If it keeps squeaking I'll pick one up and see about swapping it.
I really hope that this is the same 'clunk' I feel when driving over an uneven road (mainly when I've turning right or left.
Thanks for that
As noted earlier in this thread, I had a clunk in my steering wheel that was caused by a torn rubber boot on the steering shaft at the firewall.
Fixing that took care of the vast majority of the noise. But over the past year I've noticed some residual noise in the column when going over bumps. Eventually, I got tired of hearing it, so I removed the steering column completely from the vehicle to inspect it. That process is actually much easier than you would think.
Getting it on the bench, there were only 2 ways I could get it to make any noise. The first was rotating the shaft against the steering lock pawl. This made a loud click, but this really should have zero chance of making noise when driving down the road. I used a zip tie to push some grease into the pawl area anyway.
The other way to make noise was to force the shaft up and down perpendicular to it's axis. There was a tiny, tiny amount of play up and down, with zero play left/right. The noise seemed to come from where the telescoping shaft pieces fit together up inside the column. I hoped to pull those two shafts completely apart and regrease them, but I did not have the courage to get very aggressive with it.
Anyway, I put it all back on the truck and then cycled the telescoping steering (not the tilt) through its full range of motion about 5 times. The noise with bumps is now totally gone.
My hypothesis is that the normal vibration of the steering shaft over time causes the grease in the telescoping shaft to be redistributed in a way that allows the half shafts to click together. Cycling the telescope function may help move the grease around a little.
TLDR - If you have a steering wheel rattle over bumps, try cycling the telescoping function all the way in and out several times. It costs nothing, takes 15 seconds, and may help. This may apply mostly to those of us who have disabled the auto-retracting wheel feature.
Fixing that took care of the vast majority of the noise. But over the past year I've noticed some residual noise in the column when going over bumps. Eventually, I got tired of hearing it, so I removed the steering column completely from the vehicle to inspect it. That process is actually much easier than you would think.
Getting it on the bench, there were only 2 ways I could get it to make any noise. The first was rotating the shaft against the steering lock pawl. This made a loud click, but this really should have zero chance of making noise when driving down the road. I used a zip tie to push some grease into the pawl area anyway.
The other way to make noise was to force the shaft up and down perpendicular to it's axis. There was a tiny, tiny amount of play up and down, with zero play left/right. The noise seemed to come from where the telescoping shaft pieces fit together up inside the column. I hoped to pull those two shafts completely apart and regrease them, but I did not have the courage to get very aggressive with it.
Anyway, I put it all back on the truck and then cycled the telescoping steering (not the tilt) through its full range of motion about 5 times. The noise with bumps is now totally gone.
My hypothesis is that the normal vibration of the steering shaft over time causes the grease in the telescoping shaft to be redistributed in a way that allows the half shafts to click together. Cycling the telescope function may help move the grease around a little.
TLDR - If you have a steering wheel rattle over bumps, try cycling the telescoping function all the way in and out several times. It costs nothing, takes 15 seconds, and may help. This may apply mostly to those of us who have disabled the auto-retracting wheel feature.
Any tips for that process would be awesome. No clunk but I have a squeak when turning at very low speed which I'm pretty sure is the rubber boot that mounts to the firewall. I'd like to swap it, but the FSM process is fairly intimidating and seems to imply you have to take apart the entire steering wheel.
At least on the 2010 model, removing the steering shafts does not require any involvement of the steering column. All you do is disconnect the single bolt that holds the upper intermediate shaft to the steering column shaft. Then the intermediate shaft has enough slip in it that you can side the upper end off the steering column shaft. (Match marks on everything and tying the steering wheel securely in position are important to remember.)
Then you would remove the bolt that holds the upper intermediate shaft to the lower intermediate shaft. This bolt is on the engine compartment side of the shaft. When that bolt is free, you can just completely remove the upper intermediate shaft via the cabin side. It will slide out of the rubber boot on the firewall and into the footwell. To replace that rubber boot, only the upper shaft needs to be removed.
But to answer your actual question, to remove the steering column, you remove the horn pad, airbag, steering wheel, and the upper and lower steering column plastic trim pieces. I didn't need a steering wheel puller on mine; it came off fairly easily. Tape the clock spring in place so it does not rotate. Then you will remove the under-dash trim panel, the lower dash trim around the knee airbag, and then remove the knee airbag (4 bolts, remove the metal frame holding the airbag rather than the actual airbag itself). At this point there will be about 10 different electrical connectors between the clock spring, steering angle sensor, and the motors/solenoids on the steering column. They're all easy to reach and easy to remember where they go back. Then disconnect the push clip that holds the heater vent to the steering column and the plastic clip that holds the wiring harness to the steering column. Remove the bolt that holds the steering column to the upper intermediate shaft, and remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column to the body. Don't forget match marks on the steering wheel and steering shafts as you go.
FSM tells you to remove the heater vent tube and other parts of the dash, but that is not necessary. Everything is fairly visually intuitive, aside from the initial step of removing the horn pad and pulling up on the little yellow tabs on the airbag connectors.
Takes an hour the first time you do it, but would only take a half hour once you are familiar with the process.
Then you would remove the bolt that holds the upper intermediate shaft to the lower intermediate shaft. This bolt is on the engine compartment side of the shaft. When that bolt is free, you can just completely remove the upper intermediate shaft via the cabin side. It will slide out of the rubber boot on the firewall and into the footwell. To replace that rubber boot, only the upper shaft needs to be removed.
But to answer your actual question, to remove the steering column, you remove the horn pad, airbag, steering wheel, and the upper and lower steering column plastic trim pieces. I didn't need a steering wheel puller on mine; it came off fairly easily. Tape the clock spring in place so it does not rotate. Then you will remove the under-dash trim panel, the lower dash trim around the knee airbag, and then remove the knee airbag (4 bolts, remove the metal frame holding the airbag rather than the actual airbag itself). At this point there will be about 10 different electrical connectors between the clock spring, steering angle sensor, and the motors/solenoids on the steering column. They're all easy to reach and easy to remember where they go back. Then disconnect the push clip that holds the heater vent to the steering column and the plastic clip that holds the wiring harness to the steering column. Remove the bolt that holds the steering column to the upper intermediate shaft, and remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column to the body. Don't forget match marks on the steering wheel and steering shafts as you go.
FSM tells you to remove the heater vent tube and other parts of the dash, but that is not necessary. Everything is fairly visually intuitive, aside from the initial step of removing the horn pad and pulling up on the little yellow tabs on the airbag connectors.
Takes an hour the first time you do it, but would only take a half hour once you are familiar with the process.
OMG, the way you describe the process makes me even feel like I might be able to do this procedure and my steering column is fine! Thanks for your contributions!
I know I'm 3 years late on this thread, but I just have to say thank you!! Your hypothesis was absolutely correct. My steering column rattle was about to drive me insane, especially after replacing my sway bar end links and bushings last week with no resolution. I just telescoped the wheel in/out 10 times and it's completely gone! The steering is smoother and feels properly lubricated now with no more rattle. I'm still in disbelief. I have a 2008 with 213k miles if that's helpful to anyone. Thanks again!
Hey Heff, I'm having the same steering clunking issue with my 2008 LC. Sorry if this is a stupid question but how did you telescope the wheel in and out? By starting the engine numerous times? Thanks in advance!
There is a small adjustment knob/joy-stick on the left-hand side on the steering column behind your steering wheel. Aproximately at 7 o'clock when you're looking at your steering wheel. That 4-way knob moves the steering wheel position. You're looking for the in/out motion, not the up/down one, with 5-10 full in/out cycles.
Thanks very much for the response! I'll give that a try
I also had this issue and have tried the telescoping back and forth numerous times approach -- the annoying 'clunks' seems to have (mostly) gone
Thought it may have been suspension, but when the car is off and parked, some minor wiggles of the steering wheel produced the same minor clunks which pointed in the direction of the steering column
2015, 88k miles
Thought it may have been suspension, but when the car is off and parked, some minor wiggles of the steering wheel produced the same minor clunks which pointed in the direction of the steering column
2015, 88k miles
Anyone find any other solution to his issue? I have a 2021 GX460 with 46k miles and have the same issue. the sound is definitely coming from the upper intermediate shaft and the steering column. I don't think mine is the boot or the shaft since the vehicle is fairly new. it feels like something is loose on the column.
I have these issues too, i.e. squeal groan clunk. (2008)
I want to try the trick of cycling the telescopic control, but mine will only adjust up & down, and won't move / just makes a click when trying the in & out directions. Any ideas on fixing THIS part?
Edit: my issue might be the one in this video
I want to try the trick of cycling the telescopic control, but mine will only adjust up & down, and won't move / just makes a click when trying the in & out directions. Any ideas on fixing THIS part?
Edit: my issue might be the one in this video
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I guess time ran out to edit my last post, which was barking up the wrong tree (wrong model).
I still want to try the telescopic cycling 15x trick myself but mine only goes up/down. Could my actuator or control module be shot? Are these easy to access? When I looked I didn't really see anything telling. The other day I had a dealer tell me the whole column has to be replaced for $thousand$ of dollar$ just to fix the in/out telescoping, LMAO
I still want to try the telescopic cycling 15x trick myself but mine only goes up/down. Could my actuator or control module be shot? Are these easy to access? When I looked I didn't really see anything telling. The other day I had a dealer tell me the whole column has to be replaced for $thousand$ of dollar$ just to fix the in/out telescoping, LMAO
