Steering is not smooth

[Tareq]

Bought my LX with small steering rack leak that mechanics assured me is very minor, and in 3 months I never had to top off the fluids, but did flush the oil 3 times (turkey baster method) because I always had issues with the steering not being smooth. I thought the oil was old.

It feels like the steering gets STUCK and I have to apply hard pressure on the wheel to steer it to either direction. Imagine the steering is stuck at 12 oclock and I turn right, it will get stuck again at 2 then 4 oclock. You get the idea?

The problem comes and goes randomly, but it is smooth after water crossings, or after I pressure wash the undercarriage after offroading. It gets smooth!!

The smoothest steering ever was after I rustproofed the LX with KROWN last week.
It was buttery smooth for 5 days and now the problem is back again, with the usual squeaks.

This led me to think that something needs constant lubrication ,,, whats ur take?

Thank you!

 

[Spike555]

1st-turkey banter method does little to nothing, jack the front off the ground, stick the top hose into a empty gallon jug, have a friend start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you keep the system full of new Dexron III.
Once the new gallon jug of fluid is empty, shut it off, button it up. That is how you do a full power steering flush.
2nd-your problem is a bad u-joint on the steering shaft, the one under the hood, follow the steering shaft as it comes through the firewall, you will find a u-joint, it is bad. You can soak it with PB-Blaster and your steering will be smooth again, but that u-joint needs to be replaced. It is non serviceable.
It's dark and late so I can't look at my truck, but those u-joints are usually covered to protect them from water, dirt, etc.
eventually it will get so bad you will be in the middle of a turn and you'll keep right on turning, right into oncoming traffic.

 

[cmck]

Diagram from the FSM on a 1999 LV, I think he means what is labeled as the Intermediate Shaft Assembly (that universal joint)

Spike555, just comment if this looks correct or not. I don't have the issue but felt the diagram would help.

 

[Spike555]

I have no idea if that diagram is "correct" or not, I am far from a 100 series expert. I just know from personal experience what he is experiencing, not on my Cruiser, but it happened on my work van...twice.
The u-joint that went into the steering box was exposed to water and debris from the front wheel and everytime I turned the tire threw dirt, water, road salt, snow etc onto that u-joint.
After the 2nd replacement our mechanic made a gator for it, no more problems.

 

[Tareq]

1st-turkey banter method does little to nothing, jack the front off the ground, stick the top hose into a empty gallon jug, have a friend start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you keep the system full of new Dexron III.
Once the new gallon jug of fluid is empty, shut it off, button it up. That is how you do a full power steering flush.
2nd-your problem is a bad u-joint on the steering shaft, the one under the hood, follow the steering shaft as it comes through the firewall, you will find a u-joint, it is bad. You can soak it with PB-Blaster and your steering will be smooth again, but that u-joint needs to be replaced. It is non serviceable.
It's dark and late so I can't look at my truck, but those u-joints are usually covered to protect them from water, dirt, etc.
eventually it will get so bad you will be in the middle of a turn and you'll keep right on turning, right into oncoming traffic.

You are probably correct @Spike555
I didn more research on the u-joint and people had the same problem as mine.
I see several of those u-joints online, does anyone know what size is for our 100?
I will call the dealer once they open to check if they sell that piece alone + prices
Thank you!

 

[Tareq]

Lexus says $610cad for the u-joint only!!!!

 

[Tareq]

@Spike555
How do I get to the u-joint please?
I will just lubricate/grease it.
What is the best lubricant you guys recommend?
Leaving to Alaska in 2 days!

 

[Tareq]

@Spike555

Ok so I just located the steering u-joint (intermediate shaft assembly) and showered it with wd-40 and started the car, and it steers smooth again, probably wont last for long, so will get more cans to spray it when needed again along the way ,,, unless there is a better lubricant u suggest?

Thanks again ,,, very helpful!

 

[Spike555]

You can keep lubing it like that for as long as you want to hassle with it, as for a better lube? Silicone spray maybe? You need to use one that soaks into the u-joint so a spray white lithium grease won't work, I do not know how hard it is to reach but you can get yourself a oil can, you know, the old style type with a nozzle and a trigger that you squeeze to get the oil out, fill it with gear oil and use that to lube the u-joint.
Gear oil is thick so it will stay in place longer and will not thin out and drip away, it will also take longer for it to soak in.
Chainsaw bar oil will work too, it is equivalent to a HD30 motor oil but has additives that make it stick to the bar and chain. I think that is what I would use in a oil can.
In the mean time look around for a used intermediate shaft and have that u-joint replaced, any driveline shop could do it I think. And then you swap out the shafts.
It will need to be replaced eventually.

 

[Tareq]

You can keep lubing it like that for as long as you want to hassle with it, as for a better lube? Silicone spray maybe? You need to use one that soaks into the u-joint so a spray white lithium grease won't work, I do not know how hard it is to reach but you can get yourself a oil can, you know, the old style type with a nozzle and a trigger that you squeeze to get the oil out, fill it with gear oil and use that to lube the u-joint.
Gear oil is thick so it will stay in place longer and will not thin out and drip away, it will also take longer for it to soak in.
Chainsaw bar oil will work too, it is equivalent to a HD30 motor oil but has additives that make it stick to the bar and chain. I think that is what I would use in a oil can.
In the mean time look around for a used intermediate shaft and have that u-joint replaced, any driveline shop could do it I think. And then you swap out the shafts.
It will need to be replaced eventually.

I think I will keep on lubing it for now ,,, Thank you for helping!!!

 

[Spike555]

You're welcome.

 

[BnvS]

I have no idea if that diagram is "correct" or not, I am far from a 100 series expert. I just know from personal experience what he is experiencing, not on my Cruiser, but it happened on my work van...twice.
The u-joint that went into the steering box was exposed to water and debris from the front wheel and everytime I turned the tire threw dirt, water, road salt, snow etc onto that u-joint.
After the 2nd replacement our mechanic made a gator for it, no more problems.

@Spike555 what do you your mechanic "made a gator for it". What is a gator exactly?

 

[elk]

Sounds like you could slip a cut bicycle inner tube over the U-joint to form the gaiter. The downside to this is that if you don't seal the ends it will trap moisture, especially if you do creek crossings like the one in your avatar.

 

[Spike555]

@Spike555 what do you your mechanic "made a gator for it". What is a gator exactly?

It is just another name for a protective boot, the leather that covers your parking brake handle is technically called a gaitor.

He actually used commercial grade aluminum foil and zip ties on each end. Worked great. Granted this is on a commercial vehicle so the intermediate shaft is big as well as the u-joint that kept failing. He'd replace it, it's last about a year. He tried to find a serviceable one but had no luck.