Steering clunk with shot outer tie rods, replace outer tie rods only? (1 Viewer)

[mark71]

I've got some steering clunk and the outer tie rods look shot. Almost 200k on the clock with regular off road use, so reasonable.

Have many of you have just replaced the outers? Do you think if the outers are shot that that means the inners need replacing as well?

I know some people here have replaced the whole rack. I know it is not much more money, but certainly a lot more work, so if you went this route, I'd appreciate your input.

Thanks for your feedback!

 

[nwfl4runner]

I’d swap OTRE, the rack is not really a “while you’re in there” type job. If you have to later, you can remove without damaging

 

[linuxgod]

The rack is only necessary IMO if you’re leaking power steering fluid. At 200k if your outer boots are clean, I’d swap inner and outer tie rods and call it a day

 

[mark71]

The rack is only necessary IMO if you’re leaking power steering fluid. At 200k if your outer boots are clean, I’d swap inner and outer tie rods and call it a day

So if the outers need replacement, you think the inners will as well?

I know it may be obvious once I disassemble for the outers and can feel the inners, but I am trying to do the swap in one pass. Want to have all the parts ready but not order more than needed. Throw in the whole supply chain delays and this could really stretch out if I don’t gather the intel first, so thanks so much for your input!

 

[audi2nr]

Tie Rod End Kit - Fits 2008-2021 IFS 200 Series Land Cruiser & Lexus LX570 - https://cruiserteq.com/tie-rod-end-kit-fits-2008-2021-ifs-200-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx570/ do inners and outers at the same time, they are cheap enough.

 

[linuxgod]

So if the outers need replacement, you think the inners will as well?

I know it may be obvious once I disassemble for the outers and can feel the inners, but I am trying to do the swap in one pass. Want to have all the parts ready but not order more than needed. Throw in the whole supply chain delays and this could really stretch out if I don’t gather the intel first, so thanks so much for your input!

If both outers are worn at 200k I suspect inners are not that far behind. I’m not an expert though

 

[mark71]

Tie Rod End Kit - Fits 2008-2021 IFS 200 Series Land Cruiser & Lexus LX570 - https://cruiserteq.com/tie-rod-end-kit-fits-2008-2021-ifs-200-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx570/ do inners and outers at the same time, they are cheap enough.

If I was in the states it definitely would be a no brainer. But living in BC, shipping and customs adds to it quite a bit.

 

[bloc]

One note about inners.. they aren't cheap. In fact it's not a whole lot more to get an entire steering rack, which includes new inners.

That fact has me considering doing the whole rack as advanced PM in the next 50k or so as I approach 250k miles.

 

[hoser]

If I was in the states it definitely would be a no brainer. But living in BC, shipping and customs adds to it quite a bit.

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[mark71]

One note about inners.. they aren't cheap. In fact it's not a whole lot more to get an entire steering rack, which includes new inners.

That fact has me considering doing the whole rack as advanced PM in the next 50k or so as I approach 250k miles.

This was the point I am exploring. Then you only need to buy the outers.

CruiserOutfitters sells non-OEM inners and outers from a Japanese company called 555 for a lot less than Toyota. Given the source I am inclined to trust them, but you would still likely need to source the boots and clamps (I personally wouldn’t try to remove and reuse 200k mile rubber!)

I wonder how much cussing is involved in replacing the rack? If it is starter-replacement level frustration, then I would wait until it is leaking.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

This was the point I am exploring. Then you only need to buy the outers.

CruiserOutfitters sells non-OEM inners and outers from a Japanese company called 555 for a lot less than Toyota. Given the source I am inclined to trust them, but you would still likely need to source the boots and clamps (I personally wouldn’t try to remove and reuse 200k mile rubber!)

I wonder how much cussing is involved in replacing the rack? If it is starter-replacement level frustration, then I would wait until it is leaking.

We stock the boots and clamps too!

Steering Rack Boot - OEM Toyota - Fits IFS 200/570 (ST45535B)

Toyota Land Cruiser Steering

cruiserteq.com

 

[bloc]

This was the point I am exploring. Then you only need to buy the outers.

CruiserOutfitters sells non-OEM inners and outers from a Japanese company called 555 for a lot less than Toyota. Given the source I am inclined to trust them, but you would still likely need to source the boots and clamps (I personally wouldn’t try to remove and reuse 200k mile rubber!)

I wonder how much cussing is involved in replacing the rack? If it is starter-replacement level frustration, then I would wait until it is leaking.

I haven't done a 200-series steering rack yet, but it doesn't seem trivial. The FSM directions include lifting the engine, butI have seen mention of dropping the front diff being much easier. Not sure if that must come all the way out or just get lowered to make room. Then supposedly you just rotate the rack to the correct orientation and it'll slide out one side.

Edit: looks like the diff comes out completely.
Removing steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-steering-rack.1091656/post-14030154

 

[mark71]

Great…

Just saw this, where the steering wheel shaft enters the pump:

Well, at least now I know which direction I have to go…$$$

 

[bloc]

Great…

Just saw this, where the steering wheel shaft enters the pump:
View attachment 3924602

Well, at least now I know which direction I have to go…$$$

If you can wait until one of the common parts sales a whole rack is only like $640.

 

[linuxgod]

The rack isn’t crazy expensive but it’s a big job. Parts and labor at my dealer was about $2600. Mine was leaking fluid for probably 50k miles before it got bad enough to warrant replacing. I believe removing the oil cooler and lowering the diff an inch or two is sufficient for access but it’s still a full day plus

 

[mark71]

The rack isn’t crazy expensive but it’s a big job. Parts and labor at my dealer was about $2600. Mine was leaking fluid for probably 50k miles before it got bad enough to warrant replacing. I believe removing the oil cooler and lowering the diff an inch or two is sufficient for access but it’s still a full day plus

I wonder what the risk is with continuing to drive with the leak, assuming the reservoir got topped off regularly.

How bad was yours?

Anyone ever hear of a catastrophic failure? I’d imagine if the seal completely went it would be impossible to keep topped off, seizing the pump and disabling the truck.

 

[mark71]

If you can wait until one of the common parts sales a whole rack is only like $640.

That’s the big question…how long can it wait before I am playing with fire?

 

[linuxgod]

I wonder what the risk is with continuing to drive with the leak, assuming the reservoir got topped off regularly.

How bad was yours?

Anyone ever hear of a catastrophic failure? I’d imagine if the seal completely went it would be impossible to keep topped off, seizing the pump and disabling the truck.

I went from it needing to be topped off between oil changes to needing to be filled twice in a month. I had a lot of warning

If the fluid gets too low you’ll get air in the power steering lines and the pump won’t be able to effectively turn the wheels and eventually you’ll burn out the pump I assume.

 

[bloc]

and eventually you’ll burn out the pump I assume.

Yes. The groaning is cavitation of the foam in the fluid and it is very hard on the wear surfaces.

But the pump needs to be run dry in the first place. Without the reservoir visibly too low this is very unlikely.

 

[linuxgod]

Yes. The groaning is cavitation of the foam in the fluid and it is very hard on the wear surfaces.

But the pump needs to be run dry in the first place. Without the reservoir visibly too low this is very unlikely.

Correct. I was doing a poor job of watching mine, as it was only leaking a couple tablespoons per oil change. It wasn’t until I happened to check before a trip and noticed it was below the low line that I started watching and finding it was leaking faster.