Stealth Overlanding (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 26, 2021
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Location
ATL
I recently picked up a '17 LC that is my combo company / personal vehicle. For work purposes, it is important to keep the vehicle looking as stock as possible...but...we'd (Me + Wife) like to use the LC for a series of roadtrips. Think Atlanta > St Louis Arch > Badlands > Yellow Stone > then back to Atlanta (and back to work). So I want to build a Stealth Overlander.

To be fair, it is light overlanding...mostly paved highways, but definitely some off road boondocking along the way. I've spent hours in these forums reading but curious the community thoughts on:
  • Sleeping arrangements. Will delete 3rd row but most of the ARB storage boxes I see people using as platforms could only be installed for the few weeks we are gone and would have to be removed when back to work. Seems excessive
  • Tires. Is there a middle ground for fuel economy / light offroad traction / looking semi OEM?
  • Fridge / Cooler. Again, the ARB stuff looks cool but excessive and could only be installed while we are roadtripping. Would be fine with a 120v plug in fridge. We will be at hotels sometimes so it can come inside with us.
  • Luggage. Will probably skip the roof rack if at all possible, but interior storage options?
  • Emergency Supplies/Gear. We won't be too far off the beaten path but I don't think T-mobile has my back. GPS/Radio/Recovery Etc...?
  • Power. It has a single battery and I'm not necessarily looking to add a 2nd. Maybe something solar on the that's easy to deploy or un-install once back home?
  • Lighting. Love the lightbars I've seen on the forum but they definitely don't look stock. Suggestions here?
  • Camping preferences. Anything that's made your LC overlanding camping easier--stove, shower, etc...
 
I recently picked up a '17 LC that is my combo company / personal vehicle. For work purposes, it is important to keep the vehicle looking as stock as possible...but...we'd (Me + Wife) like to use the LC for a series of roadtrips. Think Atlanta > St Louis Arch > Badlands > Yellow Stone > then back to Atlanta (and back to work). So I want to build a Stealth Overlander.

To be fair, it is light overlanding...mostly paved highways, but definitely some off road boondocking along the way. I've spent hours in these forums reading but curious the community thoughts on:
  • Sleeping arrangements. Will delete 3rd row but most of the ARB storage boxes I see people using as platforms could only be installed for the few weeks we are gone and would have to be removed when back to work. Seems excessive
  • Tires. Is there a middle ground for fuel economy / light offroad traction / looking semi OEM?
  • Fridge / Cooler. Again, the ARB stuff looks cool but excessive and could only be installed while we are roadtripping. Would be fine with a 120v plug in fridge. We will be at hotels sometimes so it can come inside with us.
  • Luggage. Will probably skip the roof rack if at all possible, but interior storage options?
  • Emergency Supplies/Gear. We won't be too far off the beaten path but I don't think T-mobile has my back. GPS/Radio/Recovery Etc...?
  • Power. It has a single battery and I'm not necessarily looking to add a 2nd. Maybe something solar on the that's easy to deploy or un-install once back home?
  • Lighting. Love the lightbars I've seen on the forum but they definitely don't look stock. Suggestions here?
  • Camping preferences. Anything that's made your LC overlanding camping easier--stove, shower, etc...
Take a look at the air down gear up platform for your inside organization / sleeping
A nice 285/65/18 in your favorite AT style shouldn't be too noticeable
There are certainly many options in less expensive and more portable fridges. I have a small one, details in my build thread
Why not use your existing rack with a roof top box. these are easy to put on and off
Get an inreach or similar
A simple LiFePO4 'solar generator' in a mid size will do the trick
probably not necessary - but camp lights are useful. look for portable and rechargeable
Having a fold up table and some collapsible chairs are very useful to turn any boondock into a wonderful campsite
If you're sleeping in the truck, bring some stuff to help with leveling
Don't forget first aid and recovery gear
 
For power, it sounds like you wouldn’t need a whole lot and you’ll be running the engine every day getting to your next spot. I would just get a portable battery similar to what goalzero has (plenty of cheaper options). You can plug it in and charge it all day while driving and then take it into a tent or just leave it in the car when you need it. Solar seems not only overkill for your needs, but also a gigantic pain in the butt for such light camping type needs. I agree on the rooftop box. I use a cheapo Sears cargo box up top and have taken it to both coasts from Houston with zero problems on the factory LX roof rack. Pop up awning, camp chairs and table in the cargo box are a good start with lots of room for more depending on what box you get. I don’t have any drawers and don’t camp out of my LX so I don’t have any advice there. Good luck and have fun!
 
if you're boondocking you'll want a portable/folding toilet.

+1 on the air up/gear down option. I was thinking the same thing as @grinchy.. If you're using it as an occasional sleeping platform it'll be nice as well because you can put your luggage, gear, etc underneath it.

Also +1 on some folding camp chairs and a folding table. Best spot we ever stayed was a BLM site in the north rim of the GC. No picnic table, so we had to eat in our camping bag chairs because I didn't have a spare table.

My $0.02. If you only overland occasionally, just get a cooler. A good 5-day Igloo/Coleman is under $100. So long as you can drain the cooler and add ice every 3 days or so you'll be fine. It takes a lot of $3 bags of ice to pay for a $1000 fridge. We have a travel trailer and we still do this because we like cold drinks, water, etc while traveling and because the camper fridge is too small for a 2+ week trip. The only rub is that if you're camping in bear country *and* sleeping in the truck then you need to make sure you can relocate your cooler and food into the front seat or under the sleeping platform as you can't leave a basic cooler outside (and if you keep it in your vehicle, cover it with a blanket at night!)
 
Another decent cooler option is the RTIC. They have rotomolded versions like the fancy names, but priced much more competitively. I have a soft and hard sided version that both work well.

What you call "stealth overlanding" is what we used to call sleeping in the car. Sleeping pad, sleeping bag, pillow, good to go. If you want to get fancy get/make some window nets, and if you want to get super duper fancy, add some fans. The rest is all nice to have.
 
I recently picked up a '17 LC that is my combo company / personal vehicle. For work purposes, it is important to keep the vehicle looking as stock as possible...but...we'd (Me + Wife) like to use the LC for a series of roadtrips. Think Atlanta > St Louis Arch > Badlands > Yellow Stone > then back to Atlanta (and back to work). So I want to build a Stealth Overlander.

To be fair, it is light overlanding...mostly paved highways, but definitely some off road boondocking along the way. I've spent hours in these forums reading but curious the community thoughts on:
  • Sleeping arrangements. Will delete 3rd row but most of the ARB storage boxes I see people using as platforms could only be installed for the few weeks we are gone and would have to be removed when back to work. Seems excessive
  • Tires. Is there a middle ground for fuel economy / light offroad traction / looking semi OEM?
  • Fridge / Cooler. Again, the ARB stuff looks cool but excessive and could only be installed while we are roadtripping. Would be fine with a 120v plug in fridge. We will be at hotels sometimes so it can come inside with us.
  • Luggage. Will probably skip the roof rack if at all possible, but interior storage options?
  • Emergency Supplies/Gear. We won't be too far off the beaten path but I don't think T-mobile has my back. GPS/Radio/Recovery Etc...?
  • Power. It has a single battery and I'm not necessarily looking to add a 2nd. Maybe something solar on the that's easy to deploy or un-install once back home?
  • Lighting. Love the lightbars I've seen on the forum but they definitely don't look stock. Suggestions here?
  • Camping preferences. Anything that's made your LC overlanding camping easier--stove, shower, etc...


- You could consider a handful of Wolfpack crates for storage and sleeping platform.

- For light offloading, there are a number of P Rated AT tires that would fit this requirement. Honestly, what you have now would probably work fine for most purposes, but something with some sidewall reinforcement would be safer.

- Forget the fridge and go with a Yeti or comparable. With frozen packs, it can keep things cold for 5 days or so. If you are staying at hotels you can refresh your ice packs overnight. Before yo leave and when you shop, buy frozen meats and seafood and let them thaw as you travel.

- Again, Wolfpack crates are good for packing clothes. Get some stuff sacks from REI for general organization and then store them in the Wolfpack crates.

- Obviously consider the essentials, plenty of flashlights, batteries, paper maps/atlas for your planned trip, lighters/matches, emergency food and lots of water (DO NOT travel in the west without plenty of water, even on the highways). A small tool bag with essential tools. A good map app is great. Another option is the Garmin InReach (or mini). It is satellite so does not depend on cell service, has an SOS function, and has a number of plans, but one that you would be interested in allows a month-to-month options, so you only pay for the time you need it. A good first aid kit and some idea how to use it. An emergency supply of any medications.

- For power, consider a Goal Zero or something similar with a small folding solar panel. If you don't want to fork out big money, Rockpals makes a good budget option. Their solar panels are really good quality. Get some USB fairy lights from amazon. They make great camp lighting and can run forever on USB power (ie, from a goal zero battery). For what you are doing, I wouldn't worry about additional vehicle lights. You could consider upgrading your lamps to something brighter.

- Try to make decisions in your gear that allow the most flexibility. I like Wolfpack crates because they interlock and stack and can double as seating, tables, or platforms (or step stools, etc). A good camp stove and a small cookware set from GSI (or similar) is great because it includes everything in a packable set. Lots of straps, bungees, and carabiners. You can throw a bungee around a tree and line it with carabiners for hanging lights, clothes, etc. A portable toilet is always nice. Or at least a portable seat and a cheap amazon privacy tent. There are lots of nice camp showers, but honestly, a few packages of baby/shower wipes is great for refreshing. And/Or, carry a collapsable bucket. Heat some water, pour it in the bucket, and enjoy a sponge bath. A ladle is great for this too.

It's tempting to pack as much as you can in an effort to be comfortable, but think about how you will spend the most time and cater to those activities. For instance, you will be cooking/eating, sleeping, and sitting more than any other activities (except driving maybe). So invest in a a couple of Exped Mats and some comfortable bedding. A couple of nice Helinox camp chairs (we like the rockers), and a decent stove and cook set.

Remember that it is hard to get rid of unnecessary items that you pack, but there are REIs in almost every city, so you can always add as you go if there is something you really need to be comfortable.

All just my 2 cents though.
 
+1 more on the air up/gear down option, as soon as you said you have to take it out often that canceled out almost any other option.
Alternate sleeping option way easier and cheaper check out this thread from @FlightMedic178


The third row seats, though not difficult to take out/in, are completely a pain to do regularly. I was taking just 1 seat in and out maybe twice a year, and every time i was cursing what a pain it was. With @FlightMedic178 s option you keep the 3rd row seat in and just fold down.

+1 more on cooler vs fridge. I have 2 Canyon coolers, same deal, cheaper than Yeti but on par quality wise.
 
A Garmin InReach should be a staple in everyone's tool box. I use the Mini and it goes everywhere with me from overland travel to hunting/fishing and dirt bike/ADV riding, I rarely leave home without it.
 
You can zip the seats out in no time with a cordless impact driver, impact socket adapter and 14mm socket. The seats are a bit bulky to handle, but come out quickly and go back in almost as fast.
 
it hasn't come up yet, but a small air compressor is a great addition. being able to air down is critical to off road traction and comfort. and you can't air down if you can't air up.
 
Sleeping arrangements:
A good ground tent or a DIY removable sleeping platform should do the trick.

Tires:
285/65R18
Look into the Cooper AT3 XLT, pretty good mix of highway and off road characteristics. But any good A/T will do (Falken Wildpeak AT3W, Toyo Open Country AT3, General Grabber ATX, etc.).

Lighting:
Replace the factory fog lights with Baja Designs Squadron SAE (road legal) or Pro (off road use only, but super bright) using the Tundra fog light kit.

You could also try mounting lights and lightbars discreetly behind the grille. I also recommend changing the backup light bulbs to LED (I use the Auxito 921), and while you're at it, you can also upgrade the turn signals, side indicators, and license plate lights to LED as well.

Also look into perhaps upgrading your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum. Functional mods like ceramic tint (maybe the maximum that's legal in your area for "stealth") to keep the inside cool and private, and Husky Weatherbeater floor mats are also recommended.
 
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Don’t over think it. That tends to complicate things. In stock form our 200’s are more than capable. Sounds like y’all are planning what we call a good old fashioned road trip.

Focus on the experience. Not a ton of gear you don’t need. I’ve been there. After each trip we go through our stuff. If we didn’t touch it, it gets pulled. First aid / survival gear etc is different. But from a gear perspective if I didn’t cook with it or otherwise utilize a piece of kit, it gets pulled. Point being we think we need all this “fancy” stuff and we don’t.

We’ve gone weeks criss-crossing the country. With one cooler. RTIC makes a nice unit. We have the 65. It just works. Add ice every now and again and you’ll be good to go.

I have my camp system. You’ll develop what works for you by going on smaller long weekend trips. Sort it out by making mistakes close to home.

Don’t complicate it. Go light. Focus on the experience. Not the gear.
 
Lots of good advice here, but I often diverge from many others on tire ideas.

285/65R18 will get you a little more height but is only available in a LT-metric E-load, basically the toughest/heaviest tire construction available for us. This requires at least 10 more psi than stock, and will add almost 15 pounds of weight to each corner over your stock tires. You WILL feel a difference in ride quality, and sadly it won't even be in the pursuit of much benefit as even a c-load LT tire would easily handle the GVWR of a landcruiser.. Plus, any LT-metric tire (C, D, or E-load) will reduce fuel efficiency due to the different construction.

I strongly advocate considering a non-LT tire option. You can still find All-Terrain tires in P-metric and ISO-metric with tread designs that look good and perform well, but allow the stock inflation pressure and minimal increase in noise and weight. Toyo makes a stock-sized Open Country ATIII. Or move down to a 17" wheel via rock warriors, dakar Zeros, or icon options, and run a 285/70R17 and get more height than the 285/65R18 with the advantages of the P-metric construction. The latter is what I did on stock suspension and it worked very very well.

If I lived in colorado and was in the rocks all the time, I'd be on LT-metric, possibly a Mud Terrain. But realistically my use-case is lots of freeway to get to the good stuff, and I had to acknowledge that some tires would perform better for the vast majority of what I was doing.

Hope this helps.
 
Lots of good advice here, but I often diverge from many others on tire ideas.

285/65R18 will get you a little more height but is only available in a LT-metric E-load, basically the toughest/heaviest tire construction available for us. This requires at least 10 more psi than stock, and will add almost 15 pounds of weight to each corner over your stock tires. You WILL feel a difference in ride quality, and sadly it won't even be in the pursuit of much benefit as even a c-load LT tire would easily handle the GVWR of a landcruiser.. Plus, any LT-metric tire (C, D, or E-load) will reduce fuel efficiency due to the different construction.

I strongly advocate considering a non-LT tire option. You can still find All-Terrain tires in P-metric and ISO-metric with tread designs that look good and perform well, but allow the stock inflation pressure and minimal increase in noise and weight. Toyo makes a stock-sized Open Country ATIII. Or move down to a 17" wheel via rock warriors, dakar Zeros, or icon options, and run a 285/70R17 and get more height than the 285/65R18 with the advantages of the P-metric construction. The latter is what I did on stock suspension and it worked very very well.

If I lived in colorado and was in the rocks all the time, I'd be on LT-metric, possibly a Mud Terrain. But realistically my use-case is lots of freeway to get to the good stuff, and I had to acknowledge that some tires would perform better for the vast majority of what I was doing.

Hope this helps.
Had no idea 285/65/18 was only E. Some good advice here to keep the weight down on tires and good options if you want to invest in new rim size. its not a size I’ve run personally and shouldn’t have put it up.
the largest p rated I recall seeing is the general grabber apt in 275/70r18. It would fit an lx570, no idea if it’ll fit on a non lifted tlc.
 
Had no idea 285/65/18 was only E. Some good advice here to keep the weight down on tires and good options if you want to invest in new rim size. its not a size I’ve run personally and shouldn’t have put it up.
the largest p rated I recall seeing is the general grabber apt in 275/70r18. It would fit an lx570, no idea if it’ll fit on a non lifted tlc.
Yeah, I did a lot of digging looking for the 285/65 in anything but an E, and it just isn't available, or wasn't in the past. Guessing it's a popular heavy duty pickup size or something.
 
What’s the blanket for?
USFS and campground hosts recommend covering any cooler and/or food you leave in your vehicle with a blanket. Apparently some bears who get familiar with human food storage know what a cooler looks like and will rip your vehicle door off or smash your window to get to it. Covering the cooler is like playing peekaboo, so bears apparently have brains like an infant. (Ditto BTW if you have a hard sided camper - it's generally considered fine to keep food in it so long as you cannot see the food through a window.
 

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