Starting After a 5 Year Rest (1 Viewer)

[bmxben]

I picked up a 1994 FZJ80 last week, condition 6-7/10, triple-locked, rear disc, factory tow, not a bad buy. The guy who I bought it from had it sitting in covered parking for 4 years and uncovered for the past year. Currently tracking down leak sources, airing it out, put a new battery in it to verify crank and electrical.
Wanting advice on where to go from here to fire it up. Thinking I should pull the tank, new fuel filter. Should I do plugs and wires? This is going to be a full tear down, a little bit at a time but I want to be able to pull it in and out of the garage or move it out of the driveway so the kids can play.
Also looking for local buddies to learn from etc, all prior experience has been 1st gen Tacoma's, 1-3 gen 4runners, and Vanagons.

 

[gummycarbs]

You can get to the fuel pump pretty easily. There's a panel under the rear seats. That would allow you to see the condition of the tank and fuel, along with the fuel pump's filter sock. The tank has a drain plug on it, so you should be able to get any bad gas out without pulling the tank.

Spark plugs, wires, and distributors don't really go bad from just sitting. If you don't know their history, I guess I'd replace them (NGK/NTK from RockAuto), but I think I would prioritize simply getting the rig fired up first.

 

[Mike Onesty]

I would pull all of the plugs squirt oil or another lubricate into the cylinder heads, turn over by hand. If it turns freely then proceed to use started without plugs in. The goal of turning over without plugs is to buildup oil pressure and get oil to all the critical parts before actually starting. I would also change the oil first and change the gas. Before I drove it, I would change both diff fluids and check trans fluid.

 

[mjosoba]

Above is the best route in my opinion. Quick and dirty version of that, if the fuel is ok, is to pull the EFI main relay. This will crank it over without firing. Could accomplish almost the same thing.

 

[bmxben]

Thank you, I’ll start with the tank inspection, happy I didn’t just start trying to pull it. Another member had also said to pull the plugs and get some oil in there to get the rings seated and oil to the other critical parts. I’ll start tomorrow and see what I can make happen. I’ll do a full fluid/oil change before driving.

Thanks again!

 

[JoeW]

I bought my 80 in a similar state as you. Sitting 5+ years after the PO died. I popped a battery in it, pulled the plugs and tossed oil in the cylinders and cranked it with the starter for a few seconds. Then tossed the plugs back in and gave it a go. Fired right up and smoked out the back lot of my work. I ran about a tank of premium through it and then did a bunch of maintenance including the fuel filter. Hasn't skipped a beat since.

Why was it parked in the first place?

 

[bmxben]

PO had all sorts of plans for it, it belonged to his friends dad, so the story goes. He was actually going to cut it up and mount his 50cal in the back but soon found out how terrible it would be to chop the FJ. He never really got “into” the 80 scene but read enough to know he should leave it alone. He then bought a mint 97 and this one sat. Floorboards are soaked, the driver side seams to be from the window and the passenger has all the signs of a clogged sun roof drain. The back is wet as well but still seeing if it’s the drains or the windows.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

He was actually going to cut it up and mount his 50cal in the back but soon found out how terrible it would be to chop the FJ.

 

[flintknapper]

I would pull all of the plugs squirt oil or another lubricate into the cylinder heads, turn over by hand. If it turns freely then proceed to use started without plugs in. The goal of turning over without plugs is to buildup oil pressure and get oil to all the critical parts before actually starting. I would also change the oil first and change the gas. Before I drove it, I would change both diff fluids and check trans fluid.

^^^^^

This is a MUST DO for any vehicle having sat that long. Do not take any shortcuts.

'Fog' each cylinder liberally, rotate the engine *by hand* a small amount (moving the pistons slightly in their bores) and fog them again so that you completely coat each cylinder wall.

 

[bmxben]

Thank you again for all the help, through a combination of the advice I made my way to finally cranking it. With fresh gas and some additives as well I went for it. I could not get it to turn so I did some forum searchs.
The first thing I should mention is the delay of starting once the key is turned to cranking, I read about the fusible link and have 2 on the way. It was advised to get t2 and throw one in the tool bag, those have not arrived. I also went ahead a got an EFI relay even though the check engine light remained on with the key in the "on" position.
Another thing I noticed was with the seats, carpet, and the cover off, I cannot hear the fuel pump and I have no movement on the needle. I feel like I should have some movement with how much gas I put in. I still need to check the relay at the kick panel and the Fuel Pump relay, with the cost I wanted to check in with everyone and get some more opinions.
I have also looked for testing procedures for the plug at the fuel pump but the pinouts I'm finding don't match my plug.

Side note, with the key on, I pushed the vent med and all sorts of fun s*** came shooting out and I broke out in hives! Always a fun reaction for someone who does not have allergies! The ol' Land Crusiers is keeping me on my toes!

Thanks again everyone!

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you again for all the help, through a combination of the advice I made my way to finally cranking it. With fresh gas and some additives as well I went for it. I could not get it to turn so I did some forum searchs.
The first thing I should mention is the delay of starting once the key is turned to cranking, I read about the fusible link and have 2 on the way. It was advised to get t2 and throw one in the tool bag, those have not arrived. I also went ahead a got an EFI relay even though the check engine light remained on with the key in the "on" position.
Another thing I noticed was with the seats, carpet, and the cover off, I cannot hear the fuel pump and I have no movement on the needle. I feel like I should have some movement with how much gas I put in. I still need to check the relay at the kick panel and the Fuel Pump relay, with the cost I wanted to check in with everyone and get some more opinions.
I have also looked for testing procedures for the plug at the fuel pump but the pinouts I'm finding don't match my plug.

Side note, with the key on, I pushed the vent med and all sorts of fun s*** came shooting out and I broke out in hives! Always a fun reaction for someone who does not have allergies! The ol' Land Crusiers is keeping me on my toes!

Thanks again everyone!

So.....are you saying it 'cranked' but didn't start?

Did you remove the plugs....fog the cylinders and turn by hand before cranking with the starter?

 

[bmxben]

Covers off, plugs out, kind of a pain but preferrable over the 5VZFE, STABIL red can as specified by another member, cranking by hand was a pain, mostly due to space. Didn't wait overnight, but 8-10 hours before hand cranking/repeat. Plugs in, crank via starter. Since my last post I'm finding I'm only getting 10V at the fuel pump, need to charge my battery, could that be part of the fusible link failure/wear?

 

[bmxben]

Covers off, plugs out, kind of a pain but preferrable over the 5VZFE, STABIL red can as specified by another member, cranking by hand was a pain, mostly due to space. Didn't wait overnight, but 8-10 hours before hand cranking/repeat. Plugs in, crank via starter. Since my last post I'm finding I'm only getting 10V at the fuel pump, need to charge my battery, could that be part of the fusible link failure/wear?

Forgot to mention, I spoke with the previous owner and it turns out it has not been sitting for 5 years, he actually drove it occasionally and it has only sat un-cranked for the better part of 10 months.

 

[flintknapper]

Covers off, plugs out, kind of a pain but preferrable over the 5VZFE, STABIL red can as specified by another member, cranking by hand was a pain, mostly due to space. Didn't wait overnight, but 8-10 hours before hand cranking/repeat. Plugs in, crank via starter. Since my last post I'm finding I'm only getting 10V at the fuel pump, need to charge my battery, could that be part of the fusible link failure/wear?

Fuel pump voltage is variable. And the reason you didn't hear the pump running (in your previous post) is because the pump does not 'prime' with the key in the 'on' position. The circuit only energizes when 'cranking' the engine and when the engine starts (both situations making it pretty much impossible to hear the pump unless you were right over it with a stethoscope).

Fuel pressure is a better indicator of pump health.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

This is what the inside of my tank looked like after three years of sitting. Had to replace fuel filter twice, fuel pump, and completely derust the tank. Pull the fuel pump from under the back seat and carpet and see how the tank looks.