I'm getting the bad starter contact symtoms. It's early stages, but sounds like it's not going to heal itself. Great threads on the subject. Thanks rph74 for your explanation and instructions on the job. My quetion is, after taking everything apart is it cost effective to go ahead and replace the starter as well, while you have easy access. I have a 2000 with 95K on it. I hate to spend unnecessary money, but time is also a valuable comodity. Semper Fi. Mike D.
Starter,Starter Contacts, or replace both
- Thread starter miked81
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
miked81 said:
I would lean towards just replacing the contacts. It' been almost one year now on mine and it has been fine. Also, my 93 Lexus SC300 had the starter contacts replaced in mid 2001 and it is still fine today.
When doing the starter contacts job, you will actually have the starter out of the car. It is your own decision whether you want to spend $25 for the contacts only, or $200-400 for the whole shebang.
It's true that time is valuable to all of us, but once you do the contacts job yourself the first time, it'll probably be quite easy, and much less time consuming should you ever have to do it again.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks RPH. Contacts on order with CDan. Appreciate the good advice. Mike D.
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
I'm wondering how your guys' starter contacts are getting fried so quickly? I've yet to replace the contacts in the starter on my '86 runner. It starts up immediately (esp. now that I've shorted out the fuel pump check plug so the fuel pump doesn't have to wait until the AFM relay closes to turn on). Maybe the duration at which one cranks the starter kills it fast? I'd replace the contacts only on your 100. Unlikely that the starter would go bad with only that many miles, at least in a toyota.
Replace the contacts... We have done quite a few sets with ZERO bad results... I just put a set in my Tacoma last week... $7 and a 1/2 hour... 
yeah but a 4.7ltr in a 100 or Tundra requires the intake to come off to get the starter out! Bill at the dealer is about $800.
me I'd replace the starter...........but maybe thats because I have a new OEM starter sitting on the shelf I paid $100 for
me I'd replace the starter...........but maybe thats because I have a new OEM starter sitting on the shelf I paid $100 for
cruiseroutfit said:Replace the contacts... We have done quite a few sets with ZERO bad results... I just put a set in my Tacoma last week... $7 and a 1/2 hour...
Landpimp said:
Wow, I didn't realize that... Replace the starter
Jim_Chow said:
That's a good question. But for some reason this is a common problem on our cars. How many miles on your 86?
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
rph1974 said:
176K mi. I inherited the rig in 2000 at 93K mi. At 125K, I replaced the t-chain (for peace of mind since this is my road-trip rig, and I didn't want to hear the death rattle start, say, while in Death Valley!), added a new TRD cam, new rockers (for the new cam), new valve seals and exhaust guides. Since the radiator, oil/water pump were out, I put in reman OEM pumps. Also, new 3-row core modine radiator replaced the OEM 2-row core. New rotor cap/rotor/wires/plugs/radiator hoses/HG/belts, of course. All parts are OEM except the radiator. BTW, cam didn't feel to make any difference until I added a performance header followed by a larger diameter cat/cat back. Then it was like night & day. Still using the stock air box w/ no mods, OEM air filters, too. I then regeared to 4.56 (torsion diff in front, factory locker in the rear). Huge difference climbing the hills.
FYI, the CV joints/ball joints are still original. I just pump a little moly grease in there every once in a while. There's a 2" OME lift w/ front tbars cranked, but there's no additional wear on the front CV's due the manual locking hubs. Also, I'm still using the original Koyo front wheel bearings, and the were never repacked until 102K mi! After that, I repacked at 130K (Valvoline synthetic moly grease) and at 165K mi (Amsoil red MP grease). Rear sealed bearings are also original, but have play in them. I've never heard of them failing, except when someone tried to reuse the retainer (pressed on the axle shaft and holds the bearing on the semi-floater axle!).
Alternator & starter are all original, never touched. Brake fluid was never flushed in 14 yrs...was dark brown. I flushed at 120K mi, but it turned brown again quickly. Finally, I swapped in a FJ80 master. The old master (looks identical to the one on the FJ60) had this brown rusty sludge on the bottom...it's amazing it still worked, but that's Aisin quality for you. Swapped in a larger brake booster from a '92 Extracab mini last year. Combined w/ the custom Earls braided stainless hoses, carbon/kevlar pads, and valvoline dot 4 fluid, the braking is excellent...almost too much braking power! And I'm still still using the 4-piston calipers for the 4 cyl (two pistons smaller than the other two).
And just think...all this longevity for only $15K, new, back in '86!
