starter bushing and drum brake TR (1 Viewer)

[bsilva132]

I just finished a mini disk swap on my dad's 40 and I am using the drum TR with the mini arms. Obviously the TRE's are smaller than the holes in the arms. I read that you can use a starter bushing as a shim to make the TREs tight in the arms. See here for an explanation:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=136579

Does anybody know what the specific application for the strater bushings are so the drones at the auto parts store can find them? I have searched PBB, LCML, and web with little luck. I also PMed Texican about it, but have not heard back from him. This is not going to be a long term solution and the rig is driven offroad 80% of the time. Just looking for a cheap solution for now so we can get it moving again.
-Brian

 

[Poser]

PM Texican...I thought he was the one who posted that up a while back...


Good luck!

-Steve

 

[Poser]

Oh, and when you figure it out...

Post it up!

Thanks!

This is something that has come up in the past, and would be good to add to the Cruiser facts...

 

[Poser]

Ok dude...

Follow your link, butch posted up a picture of the box with the Borg Warner part number right there....

Good luck!

-Steve

 

[Texican]

Brian, the borg warner part number is SBO I got them from Oreilly's but surely any parts store computer will interchange the number, as far as it being a temporary solution, I recently had to replace a bent TR on the first one I did using this for an LSLC member, and it shows no sign of wear, the new TR fit in and tightened up just fine. This is a DD FJ40, at least 3 yrs ago. As long as it never gets loose, letting the tapered TR wobble and wear into the bushing I figure it is a one time deal.
Butch

 

[Landpimp]

This is how my fj45 was done. But I bought what I was told was a 76 fj40 front disc axle, when it showed up it turned out to be a fj40 drum axle converted with mini truck parts(but no vented rotors, ect)(I got a great deal regardless) turns out thats how they had solved the problem, many moons ago, stilll looked good so I ran it. I didn't know till Butch posted his method, that what had been done on my arms was exactly what he showed doing. But sure seems to be working fine in my 45 with 35's and its works for XXXX amount under another 40............who knows maybe I have an axle that Butch worked on at some point........I did find a clump of long grayish hair in the knuckle

 

[Texican]

[quote author=Landpimp XXXX amount under another 40............who knows maybe I have an axle that Butch worked on at some point........I did find a clump of long grayish hair in the knuckle

Like I stated in the original POR post, not my idea, it came off the LCML years ago, and I leave no hair where I work thank you very much.......
Butch

 

[bsilva132]

Thanks for the info. I was not sure if the SBO was the part # or not.

 

[Poser]

Ttt

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Great information here.
I guess another option is using steering arms from a 1/1979 to 1984 FJ40 but this method looks better to me. ($100 for arms from SOR or $5 from O'Reillys)

 

[e rock]

More info for an old thread:


I didn't know about the starter bushing trick when I did mine, so here's the unnecessarily complicated method my machinist buddy and I came up with:

I originally asked him to fill the holes in the minitruck arms, then ream them to fit the drum-brake TREs. He wasn't concerned about the weld, but he didn't have the right taper ream. So he wanted to re-use the old one.

He cut the ends off my old steering arms. Then he chocked them up in the lathe and turned them down smooth and cut threads into the outside. Then he reamed out the minitruck arms and cut threads into them as well so the inserts he made from the old arms would thread in. The inserts are captive once the TRE nut is snugged up, but just to be sure nothing would move, he peaned the arms around the inserts.


I don't necessarily recommend this method unless you have a lot of spare time and can't get your hands on the starter bushing, but it is an option.



For what it's worth, my TR was too long after this swap. Until I get a more permanent steering setup, I opted to just cut about 1/2" of the threaded portion of one of the TREs in order to thread it all the way in and get appropriate toe-in.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Starter Bushings as Shim:

Starter bushing from Autozone will also work:

Duralast Starter Bushing 4200B - Current MSRP is $3.49​

Also "Standard Ignition Starter Bushing" X-4378 is the same thing. On the interwebs it can be found for about $2.19. (Carquest sells the exact same bushing for $10.99)

I just ran across this cross reference for X-4378 (based on what is below it appears Advance Autoparts uses part number SBA5143):

Brand & Part Number

Chrysler	J810620
Ford	C1TZ-11052A / C1TZ11052A
Jeep	J810620
BWD	SB0
ACDelco	D4307
AMC	J810620
Kem	BB200
Wells	4200B
Airtex	7A1014
Caterpillar	9B9103
General Motors	801620
Mighty Distributing System	3-1676 / 31676
CARQUEST Premium By WELLS	20-3500 / 203500
Allis Chalmers	4042664
Renault	J810620

RockAuto - Search for X4378 and you can get a pack of 5 for $6.30

Here is a link to the actual applications if it is important to you:

Starter Bushing Standard Ignition X-4378

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