Stalling issue

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Joined
Jan 1, 2009
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Location
Texas Hill Country
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www.jefemade.com
My 98 LC 100 was running perfectly. About 30-minutes into a trip as I started to slow down for a red light the engine died. I got it started and off the road. It now will start and run fine after it sits for a while. But, after 20-30 minutes of running it wants to die.
-
I’m getting no CEL - no codes are showing up. I’m baffled and so was the “tech” at the shop it spent 2-days at. The rig has 174k miles and since I purchased it in 2018 (between 2019-2022) have done the following (All parts are OEM):
-
New fuel tank
New fuel pump
All fuel lines purged
New injectors
New coil packs
New radiator
New water pump
Complete timing belt kit replacement
New MAFS
(That’s about it
-
Since I’m getting no codes I’m not really sure where to start. Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Check the throttle body
 
Ive read that a faulty fuse box (connections inside the fuse box really) can cause intermittent engine stalling.

Pull the fuse box cover off (engine bay), start the truck.

Gently wiggle each relay and fuse to see if you can get the truck to stall or stumble.

Go slow and pay close attention to how the truck is running.
 
Did you use an OEM or AISIN fuel pump (and bought from a trusted seller) The fuel pump can cause the same symptoms. It will run until it heats up and then stops. Pine hallow auto diagnostics (Ivan) has a video of it on youtube (4Runner)

You may have a clogged fuel filter that cause excessive pressure on the pump and may cause it to turn off.
 
If no CEL it’s usually the fuel pump if that hasn’t been replaced and older than 150k miles. Would highly recommend to listen to by the gas cap if the fuel is boiling, aka vapor lock. Solution is to insulate your gas tank as it sits just a few inches away from the exhaust piping.
 
My 98 LC 100 was running perfectly. About 30-minutes into a trip as I started to slow down for a red light the engine died. I got it started and off the road. It now will start and run fine after it sits for a while. But, after 20-30 minutes of running it wants to die.
-
I’m getting no CEL - no codes are showing up. I’m baffled and so was the “tech” at the shop it spent 2-days at. The rig has 174k miles and since I purchased it in 2018 (between 2019-2022) have done the following (All parts are OEM):
-
New fuel tank
New fuel pump
All fuel lines purged
New injectors
New coil packs
New radiator
New water pump
Complete timing belt kit replacement
New MAFS
(That’s about it
-
Since I’m getting no codes I’m not really sure where to start. Thoughts?
Have you found a solution yet?
 
@davisfj62 I took your post and dropped it into a custom GPT I've been playing around with to try and make the FSM and Diagnostic Manuals more easily accessible and automated. Hope this helps!


Thanks for providing the details about your 1998 LC 100. It sounds like you've already done a lot of work on the vehicle, which helps narrow down potential issues. Here are a few potential causes and steps you can take to diagnose the problem:​

### Potential Causes
1. **Fuel Delivery Issue**:
- Even though you've replaced the fuel pump and fuel lines, there could still be an issue with the fuel pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter. If the fuel pressure drops, it could cause the engine to stall.

2. **Ignition System**:
- Although you've replaced the coil packs, there could be an issue with the ignition control module or crankshaft position sensor. These components can fail when they get hot and then work again once they've cooled down.

3. **Electrical Connections**:
- Heat can cause expansion and contraction of electrical connections, which could lead to intermittent failures. Check for any loose or corroded connections, especially around the battery, ignition system, and ground points.

4. **Vapor Lock**:
- This is less common with modern fuel-injected systems, but it's worth considering if the fuel is vaporizing in the lines due to heat.

5. **ECU (Engine Control Unit)**:
- While it's rare, the ECU itself could have an intermittent fault that doesn't throw a code.

### Diagnostic Steps
1. **Check Fuel Pressure**:
- Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail both when the engine is cold and after it has warmed up and started to die. Compare the readings to the specifications in the service manual.

2. **Inspect Electrical Connections**:
- Visually inspect and clean the electrical connections related to the ignition system, fuel system, and ECU. Look for any signs of corrosion or loose connections.

3. **Test Ignition Components**:
- Test the crankshaft position sensor and ignition control module with a multimeter to ensure they are operating correctly when hot.

4. **Monitor Live Data**:
- If you have access to an OBD-II scanner that can read live data, monitor the engine parameters while it's running and see if anything looks out of the ordinary when it starts to die.

5. **Vapor Lock**:
- Check the routing of the fuel lines to ensure they are not too close to heat sources like the exhaust manifold. Adding heat shields or rerouting the lines might help if vapor lock is suspected.

Resources
- Refer to the LC100 Service Manual for specific procedures and specifications on checking fuel pressure and testing ignition components.
- For electrical connection diagrams and troubleshooting, see the section on Electrical Wiring Diagram Manual

Final Note
Don't get discouraged. Your Land Cruiser is a great vehicle, and with some thorough diagnostics, I'm confident you can pinpoint the issue. Good luck, and feel free to ask if you need further assistance!
 

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