Stainless Steel Line/100 Series Pad Install - Notes and Questions (1 Viewer)

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Hi all,

Did some searching to help with my Wit’s End stainless steel line install on my 1993 80 Series. I couldn’t find much so I thought I’d jot down some notes that may help others with their installs now that I did mine.

Also, I have a couple questions for those more familiar with the brake system on the 80.

Notes:
-At least with the Wits End kit, I had to do some modifications to several brackets to make room for the ends of the new lines. You have to have adequate space for the retainer clips to slide onto the ends of the lines
-Making modifications to the brackets, as well as installing the new lines, is MUCH easier with the brackets unbolted (12mm bolts) from the frame. This may be obvious but I got halfway through the job before realizing this. You can just hang the brackets by the hard lines to give you room to maneuver the new lines onto the 10mm screws to which they attach
-Bleeding the brake system after installing the lines is made much easier with a Motive vacuum bleeder. I used the 0101 model and it worked fine. I went through about a gallon of brake fluid overall removing contaminants, air, and whatever old fluid was left
-I installed 100 Series pads (also from Wits End) on the front, they needed some light force to get back on the rotors due to the increased thickness, even after compressing the pistons by hand, but otherwise it’s the same as any pad swap

Questions:
-I COULD NOT get the new rear axle line to thread onto its 10mm counterpart. I was concerned that I cross threaded something or damaged the threads, but it threaded on to the old line fine, and the new line threaded onto another 10mm fitting no problem. In the interest of getting the truck working, I just reinstalled the old line. Wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar issue
-The initial test drive around the block was fine, everything worked normally, making me confident I had gotten all the air out of the system. But a longer drive today resulted in extremely hot front brakes and lots of “hot brake” smell. No degradation in performance, but overheated brakes is no good, obviously. I suspect drag, but whether that’s because the new pads are just, well, new (and thick), or some other issue, I’m not sure.
>>I didn’t bleed the master cylinder or mess with the LSP at all (which I didn’t know existed until I started trying to diagnose the heat issue). Is that a likely/typical culprit? Otherwise, I’m confident I purged the air from the bleeders on the calipers. I did a lot of bleeding
>>The reservoir doesn’t appear to be overfilled. If it is, it’s only slightly over. I’ll try removing some fluid from it, but I doubt that’s the issue. (I have a sloped driveway, hence my highly scientific analysis of the fluid level)

I hadn’t ever done any serious brake system work prior to this, so hopefully my observations will help those in a similar position. And hopefully more knowledgeable folks will have some pointers as to the hot brake issue. Thanks!
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
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From my experience w/ Slee SS lines, I never had any threading issues.

Any chance the threads weren’t cut well - can you chase them with a metric bolt (I’m thinking that hose had a female socket fitting, or have I had too many concussions? ;)

As for LSPV’s - lots of people ditch ‘em for the PITA they are to get a good bleed through.

Mine’s still in the black 80, but I need to refresh my fluid (~6yrs old) & I may very well pitch it.

If you have any lift on your suspension, and tou choose keep the LSPV, you do need to adjust it to compensate.

New brakes really shouldn’t smell like you’re cooking things - you may want to check if you have a stuck piston.

Are you getting the smell at any particular corner of the rig, or right there at the master cyl / underhood?
 
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Thanks for your input!

I chased the threads with a spare bleeder nipple (same diameter and pitch) and it worked fine. I couldn’t identify any manufacturing defects or damage to the threads, so I’ve chalked it up to voodoo at this point. You’re right, the line has one female and one male end. Had no issues with the male end, but damnit I couldn’t get that female end to thread no matter what I tried.


I’m not entirely sure, but it seemed like the drivers side front was hotter than the passenger side, potentially indicating a stuck piston like you said. How would I go about remedying that? I’m so over this brake job but I’ll take it apart and put it back together if I have to 😩

On the LSPV, I do have a moderate OME lift but haven’t ever encountered issues with the brakes since I lifted the truck 8k miles ago. And I’ve replaced the brake fluid once before, again without issues. Like I said, I had no idea the thing even existed until I started trying to troubleshoot the hot brakes and considered that maybe it was a potential culprit (no idea why it would be, just trying to go through the possibilities).
 
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-I installed 100 Series pads (also from Wits End) on the front, they needed some light force to get back on the rotors due to the increased thickness, even after compressing the pistons by hand, but otherwise it’s the same as any pad swap
If there's no space between the pad and rotor, they're dragging. I've never bought into using 100 series pads on the 80, and the simple fact that they don't fit properly is one reason. The other reason being that in my opinion it's pointless, any improvement people are seeing from 100 series pads on an 80 is from other changes in their system while doing the work, such as bleeding, fresh fluid, fresh rotors, fresh pads, differing pad material, etc. There are more aggressive pads available for the 80 series if that's what you want. I can lock my (37") tires on my LC with cheap Centric pads and rotors and otherwise stock system.
 
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Confirmed that the brake fluid is at the correct level and that the DS front wheel spins “freely,” (as freely as these can spin given the drivetrain) so I’m going to say it’s probably just drag from the new pads. To your point about the 100 Series pads, I just assumed it was a common drop-in upgrade— I hadn’t seen any criticisms in my initial reading about using them. But if you and others have found fitment issues with them, I’m happy to reconsider, and maybe as others find this thread they’ll have some more to think about before dropping 100 Series pads into their 80s.

Not sure at this point if this heat issue is one of those things you just have to accept and drive around a little more, or if it’s a more serious issue that could warp the rotors over time.
 
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Confirmed that the brake fluid is at the correct level and that the DS front wheel spins “freely,” (as freely as these can spin given the drivetrain) so I’m going to say it’s probably just drag from the new pads. To your point about the 100 Series pads, I just assumed it was a common drop-in upgrade— I hadn’t seen any criticisms in my initial reading about using them. But if you and others have found fitment issues with them, I’m happy to reconsider, and maybe as others find this thread they’ll have some more to think about before dropping 100 Series pads into their 80s.

Not sure at this point if this heat issue is one of those things you just have to accept and drive around a little more, or if it’s a more serious issue that could warp the rotors over time.
100 series pads are a hot-button topic, some will tell you they won't help at best and will hurt at worst, and some swear they stop the truck much better and last longer. Those of us that are anti 100 pad folk are tired of repeating ourselves and hearing how wonderful the pads are and how we should shut up, so you may have to dig a bit to find those opinions. To be honest I'm surprised no one has contradicted me in this thread yet. One thing for sure- you can't use the shims that usually come with 100 series pads, so if you did you should at least take them out.

Brake pads and rotors heat up when used, but not hot enough to smell- that's serious. I'd try driving it a bit without hitting the brakes at all, doesn't have to be super far, coast to a stop or use your e-brake, and if they're hot you have an issue you shouldn't ignore. In any case there shouldn't be any 'drag from the new pads', that's not normal, and brakes hot enough to smell isn't normal under normal driving conditions either, so I'd be figuring that one out asap. Yes, you could warp the rotors, or start a fire, or not have brakes when you need them.
 

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