Stage 2: Front Bumper Design

[bhicks]

stage 1 was my rear bumper. You can see the thread that goes from concept to finished bumper here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/707926-thoughts-my-bumper-design.html

It's now time to focus on the front bumper. I took some measurements over the weekend of the front end and frame and began sketching in CAD. This is only a rough draft and changes will occur as I begin to fab it up. I wanted a light but strong tube bumper with a 2" reciever mount and shackle mounts. A lot of the tube/stinger style front bumpers I have seen stick way out to accomidate a winch. I wanted something tight to the body and did not want the added weight of a winch. I have a winch on my reciever mount that I add when I go wheelin. i like that I'm lighter when I'm just driving around town. I designed one without a stinger then another with the stinger. I'm not sure what route i will go yet. Once I start bending tube and tacking it all together I will make the call at that point as to what looks best. Here's what I have so far. Feel free to comment and share your thoughts. I take no offense. I'm not a fabricator and this is not my career so your not hurting me if you have criticism. Also, I may add some diamond plating above and to the sides of the hitch to fill it in. Not sure yet. Here's some pics:

 

[bhicks]

Here's a pic of the non stinger bumper and a few with a REALLY rough LX front end. I wanted to see how tight it would fit so I made a quick mock up of the body. I used the overall width and height. The curves aren't exact but close enough for me to get an idea on how it would look. I only spent about 5 minutes making the front end.

 

[bhicks]

This is all 1.5" DOM .120 wall. The frame mounts are 1/4" plate and all of the factory bolt holes on the top and bottom (used for the tow hooks) will be used to mount this. I figured if two bolts can hold on the tow hooks (which are designed to pull the weight of the vehicle then using all 4 on each side PLUS the 3 side bolts for the factory bumper should be plenty strong for this application. The shackle mount section is 1/2" thick plate. My structural testing in CAD showed no weak areas for the winch I will be running. The ac canister/drier is an issue right now. It's is right where the lower right brace goes. i will need to relocate it some how. Will need to do that project first.

 

[SIZZLE]

Nice, clean design. I like it. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Some guys on here have been able to bend the AC dryer lines by hand without disconnecting anything. Good luck!

 

[tfree]

Where would you put the license plate? I like the idea of a lighter design for front and back. My stock bumpers are kind of beat up and was looking for something like what you are doing. Filling in with diamond plate would be good.

 

[bhicks]

Where would you put the license plate? I like the idea of a lighter design for front and back. My stock bumpers are kind of beat up and was looking for something like what you are doing. Filling in with diamond plate would be good.

The license plate will mount either just above the hitch with some self tapers or I will use a reciever hitch license plate mount like this one:

http://autoplicity.com/products/253...10&network=g&gclid=CL_JzvDI4bYCFYiDQgodqDgA4w

 

[canman]

Looks very good. I have two comments:

1. Could you incoprorate the shackle mounts into the frame "caps" rather than having a separate 1/4" plate on t he side?
2. It appears it may be prone to weakness if subjected to a torsional load (e.g. if you are loading the winch in anything other than the horz plane). With the winch hanging off of the reciever mount, you may be creating a fair bit of moment.

 

[Qball]

Can you hang the factory bumper on the bumper without stingers? It could be a really good sleeper setup!

 

[bhicks]

Looks very good. I have two comments:

1. Could you incoprorate the shackle mounts into the frame "caps" rather than having a separate 1/4" plate on t he side?
2. It appears it may be prone to weakness if subjected to a torsional load (e.g. if you are loading the winch in anything other than the horz plane). With the winch hanging off of the reciever mount, you may be creating a fair bit of moment.

It looks like the shackle mounts are 1/4" but they are 1/2" plate and they are fully incorporated into the "caps". My CAD stress analysis showed no weak point in that area unless I was putting 30,000 lbs plus on those junctions. The rest of the "end cap" sections is all 1/4" plate so only 1/4" of the shackle mounts sticks out past which gives it the illusion it is smaller. I will start fabing this up weekend after next. Right now I just need to get the plates cut out and shipped to me.
In regards to lateral movement; you are correct. I may add a horizontal bar across the back of the hitch tube and weld it to plates that can be bolted to the frame. If that makes no sense then you will just have to wait and see.

 

[bhicks]

Can you hang the factory bumper on the bumper without stingers? It could be a really good sleeper setup!

Possibly. I didn't design it for that, but I'm pretty sure with minor changes it could tuck under the factory bumper.

 

[Delancy]

The ac canister/drier is an issue right now. It's is right where the lower right brace goes. i will need to relocate it some how. Will need to do that project first.

For what it's worth.

I bought a JDM Relocate kit from a member here that was, pretty much, a direct swap into the DS battery tray using a Corolla drier. Kit was pricey and two driers in to get the correctly oriented fittings, compounded the expense.







An effort at environmental stewardship, went to a trusted local shop to discharge system. He asked what I'd paid for kit and fell to the floor when I divulged, claiming that all could be bent, OE fittings removed, welded to new lines for a third of expense, of course a mounting bracket for drier and new drier would be required.

After removing, it appeared the OE drier would work with minor modifications to the OE bracket, in the battery tray, but my observation.

I'd offer up my old lines for fittings, but already sent to another member going through same as you. I do have a new Toyota drier that's a replacement for the older part number on Corollas, that's ~3/4" shorter than what's on there now, fittings are oriented differently, but if chopping into your old lines, it won't matter.





Black is "new".





Can't return and no activity in a three month WTS ad, so offering up if interested in. PM address and can get headed your way.

Edited: pics came through out of sequence, but the left is top of new showing the rotated fitting orientation.

 

[canman]

FWIW I purchased these shackle mounts for my build (no affiliation - sale has ended). I like the fact that the shackle mount is 1" thk and prevents the shackle from shifting around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-wel...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

[bhicks]

FWIW I purchased these shackle mounts for my build (no affiliation - sale has ended). I like the fact that the shackle mount is 1" thk and prevents the shackle from shifting around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-wel...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I would definately prefer some 1" thick mounts as well but my 110 welder doesn't have nearly the power/penetration to handle that thick of steel. I would be reaching the outer 1/4" and the rest would be a waste. I need to invest in a bigger welder but it's just not in the budget right now.

 

[bhicks]

I appreciate you offering me your extra drier canister, but unfortunately I"m commited to my current set up. I literally just installed a brand new drier, core, valve, and compressor in the last week. That list of parts KILLED my overall budget. I can not afford to pay to have the system drained and recharged again. I need to bend the current tubes as much as possible to get the canister as far out of the way as possible but without having to drain the system. I know there are a few on here that have done this. I simply need to take the time to find those threads and figure out how they relocated the can and bent the pipes. I'm sure it can't be too difficult.

For what it's worth.

I bought a JDM Relocate kit from a member here that was, pretty much, a direct swap into the DS battery tray using a Corolla drier. Kit was pricey and two driers in to get the correctly oriented fittings, compounded the expense.



View attachment 751332



An effort at environmental stewardship, went to a trusted local shop to discharge system. He asked what I'd paid for kit and fell to the floor when I divulged, claiming that all could be bent, OE fittings removed, welded to new lines for a third of expense, of course a mounting bracket for drier and new drier would be required.

After removing, it appeared the OE drier would work with minor modifications to the OE bracket, in the battery tray, but my observation.

I'd offer up my old lines for fittings, but already sent to another member going through same as you. I do have a new Toyota drier that's a replacement for the older part number on Corollas, that's ~3/4" shorter than what's on there now, fittings are oriented differently, but if chopping into your old lines, it won't matter.



View attachment 751335

Black is "new".

View attachment 751338



Can't return and no activity in a three month WTS ad, so offering up if interested in. PM address and can get headed your way.

Edited: pics came through out of sequence, but the left is top of new showing the rotated fitting orientation.

 

[Delancy]

I literally just installed a brand new drier, core, valve, and compressor in the last week. That list of parts KILLED my overall budget.

I bet it did. Healthy list of parts, but that'll be much appreciated in a few months, at least it would here.

There's several that have bent out of the way. Short of the inspection eye, don't know of any ill affects, but no means knowledgeable.

 

[cody c]

Regarding the bumper, the reciever hitch in the front, I would consider running two of them instead of one, or just leave the winch on the front.

I understand that you probably want to be able to swap it to the back, but Id rather put a double reciever on the back then have the reciever pin shear and the winch with cradle launch out the front.

Do you really want a winch with cradle in the interior if you were in a rollover?

 

[bhicks]

Regarding the bumper, the reciever hitch in the front, I would consider running two of them instead of one, or just leave the winch on the front.

I understand that you probably want to be able to swap it to the back, but Id rather put a double reciever on the back then have the reciever pin shear and the winch with cradle launch out the front.

Do you really want a winch with cradle in the interior if you were in a rollover?

I definately don't want to run a winch on the front full time. That defeats the point of being able to remove it and run it front and back. I have been wheeling different rigs for over 15 years which include Broncos, Yotas, and 4 Jeeps. In every rig I have ran a universal winch mount front and rear. I LOVE the option to winch from either end and I LOVE the option of keeping my winch in my garage safe from vandalism and the elements. I also enjoy being able to help others that are stuck by mounting my winch on their hitch and giving them a rear pull if I can't get my rig into a good position to tug. I only mount it when I'm going wheelin and I usually just leave it on the front until otherwise needed in the rear. I don't leave it in the back of the 80 right now. In previous jeeps I took a tow hitch and welded a plate to it and then bolted the plate through the floor. That way I can attach my winch to a tow hitch on the floor in the back of my rig and it doesn't move an inch. I havn't made one for the 80 yet. That will happen this summer.

 

[bhicks]

So after starring at the stinger for the last couple days, I realized I just didn't like how it looked BUT I also didn't like the bumper without the stinger. I knew something was missing so after some google images search I got one last idea. I added a bar around the head lights to frame in the front end and add some support around the front corner of the rig. I am now happy with the look and am ready to start the build. The metal used in the openings is standard expanded metal. You can get it pretty cheap at any hardware store. That part I am not sold on yet. i planned to use diamond plate in the openings but it's CRAZY expensive. The expanded metal is about 1/10th the cost. Here's my final design and the closest to what my final bumper will look like.

 

[cjmoon]

I like where your going this is the one I just finished. I wish I made my center hoop an inch or two taller but still turned out great.

 

[bhicks]

I like where your going this is the one I just finished. I wish I made my center hoop an inch or two taller but still turned out great.

That looks sweet. I really like the bends around the turn signals/blinkers. I wanted to make a few more bends in that area but my cheap harbor freight bender can't quite make bends that tight or close together. I had to keep my bends limited to the capabilities of my little bender. Good Job. Any idea on how much it weights without the winch?