Stabilizer bushings and links done! (1 Viewer)

[12guns]

Ordered parts from Oriely, I figured they will last years and years and I was happy with the quality of the parts.
Took me a few hours due to the stubborn bolts, but got it done today. Man what a difference! My 2k cruiser with 158k miles has always had slopping steering since I've owned it and I figured it was the old bushings. Now it's tight as new and drives much better on the highway.
Things I learned:
-Soak the bolts prior to starting!
-It can be done w/o removing the Torsion Bars, as mentioned in other threads.
-I need a better/taller floor jack!
-I'm too dang old for crawling around on the ground!
Glad I did it. Hope others don't hesitate to tackle this simple project.

 

[jeetS]

What exactly did you replace? Links and bushings? Or just bushings? Been meaning to do this I know my rear ones are really sloppy...

 

[etarasoff]

Part #s?

 

[RobRed]

Part #s?

This will probably help http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/02/parts-list-to-refurbish-your-anti-roll-bars/

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

 

[spressomon]

Just a note to the OP: I tried a NAPA anti-sway bar link (had to wait for OEM...NAPA was in stock...'haste does make waste') and it snapped at the crappy "weld"...and that led to a downward spiral of issues and near calamity, including ripping a front brake line due to same causing all brakes to not show up to the party, out in the middle of nowhere Utah on a steep set of switchbacks.

Not sure what your O'Reilly parts look like but if they're anything like the NAPA units I suggest keeping a close eye on those links or better yet replacing them with OEM ASAP.

Just my 2 cents and maybe all its worth...

 

[12guns]

Sorry for not including part numbers. I thought there was already a FAQ for this, but there's not. Here's a great "how to" write up done by virafp:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/607258-changed-sway-bar-bushings-175k-wow.html

It should answer any other questions. Only difference is I went with a cheaper stabilizer link with traditional rubber pads vs. the poly pads he used.
Here's the parts I used...and don't hate for me using the cheap stabilizer link. It works great and is a huge improvement over the old, worn out links. If these don't last, I'll get a better quality next time.

Sway bar bushings:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...688_362&keyword=sway!s!stabilizer+bar+bushing

Stabilizer link:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...364688_362&keyword=sway!s!stabilizer+bar+link

Tools:
14mm for top bolt on stabilizer link, then 15mm for new link.
12mm for sway bar bushing bolts, open/box end for bottom facing bolt, and socket for top facing bolt. (a ratcheting box end makes quick work of the bottom facing bolt, it's hard to get to and has lots of threads sticking out to rust on the top side).
Solid flathead or prybar to pry on swaybar to align holes.
14mm also for lower main bolt for stabilizer link where it mounts to the knuckle.
Floor jack and jack stands

 

[consalvochris]

FYI for those who live in the northeast or any other rust belt area, order every nut and bolt - do not plan on using any old hardware. This comes from experience and a ton of swearing

 

[etarasoff]

Thanks everyone for the info. You guys are awesome.

 

[ogsuv]

I second the rust and broken bolt comment. 180k Wisconsin rig. Broke most of the bolts. Had to drill a few out and replace with new nut and bolts. I used all raybestos middle of the road parts and notice a significant difference. My cheap cutoff wheel really helped with removing the old parts too. Well worth the effort.

 

[12guns]

I'll add that both of my stabilizer links were rusted badly. Not the bolts to hold them on, but the actual shaft under the cushions. I wish I had taken a pic or two, but they both were at least 1/3 smaller than they should due to rust over the years. Not only did I have sloppy steering, but a few more years and I might risk them breaking on the road, which is no bueno.
BTW, anyone know how tight to get the stabilizer link bolt that crushes the cushions? I cranked and cranked, then switched to a break over bar. I think they are down all the way, but wasn't sure if the thread are supposed to bottom out or just get so tight on the cusion that you can't turn it much/anymore. I'll recheck tomorrow. Thank!

 

[EdsCruisin]

I'll add that both of my stabilizer links were rusted badly. Not the bolts to hold them on, but the actual shaft under the cushions. I wish I had taken a pic or two, but they both were at least 1/3 smaller than they should due to rust over the years. Not only did I have sloppy steering, but a few more years and I might risk them breaking on the road, which is no bueno.
BTW, anyone know how tight to get the stabilizer link bolt that crushes the cushions? I cranked and cranked, then switched to a break over bar. I think they are down all the way, but wasn't sure if the thread are supposed to bottom out or just get so tight on the cusion that you can't turn it much/anymore. I'll recheck tomorrow. Thank!

The FSM shows the fronts are 18 ft/lbs and the rear are 11 ft/lbs.

I was recently replacing all of mine and sheared a bolt in the rear on the bracket that holds the link, and so I took it to the mechanic to do the front and now I'm told the bracket on the passenger side front is almost rusted away. Next stop to get a new one welded on.....

 

[dfrelich]

Truck at 13 years

Just this week I found out I had broken link. Started to feel popping noise when turning corners, so I replaced both links. FYI, with the other "good" link... when trying to turn bolt loose, it just sheared off easily.

Probably a good idea to replace. $25 from my toyota dealership. I could have ordered it but with shipping and all, it might come up even. I had tires out so I went and bought them without having to wait.

 

[12guns]

That's the same place mine were rusted pretty bad. It's hidden by the cushions, so I guess most don't even know they are bad.
About the torque specs, I don't have a torque wrench, but I'm certain I cranked them at least 18 ftlbs and probably more. Problem is when you tighten down on the rubber, it's hard to tell when/where to measure from. I'll recheck them tomorrow, steering is still tight and smooth even after some light off roading today. I'll make sure nothing has settled and go from there. Thanks

 

[dfrelich]

That's the same place mine were rusted pretty bad. It's hidden by the cushions, so I guess most don't even know they are bad.
About the torque specs, I don't have a torque wrench, but I'm certain I cranked them at least 18 ftlbs and probably more. Problem is when you tighten down on the rubber, it's hard to tell when/where to measure from. I'll recheck them tomorrow, steering is still tight and smooth even after some light off roading today. I'll make sure nothing has settled and go from there. Thanks

I agree. My wife commented to me today that the thunk is gone. I just realized something. Perhaps some owners who have had lubed their shaft and still have thunks. This probably had meant broken links.