Changed Sway Bar bushings at 175K...WOW!

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Jul 18, 2012
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My 2001 LC was starting to feel a bit sloppy, so started researching the sway bar link bushings here on the site. Did the fron and rear today and it took a total of 1.5 hours! What a difference, to the cornering and rear end sway. I did not replace the cushions, as I am waiting on poly ones.

Rear: The upper link mount was a bitch, so just removed the whole bracket. Easy. Used Energy Suspension universal on the uppers, but used the OEM rubber on the lowers. Used new hardware, a cheap investment. The Energy bushings are a tad looser than the factory rubber, but when tightened down, they snug right up. Used the original washers as well.

Front: So easy...did not even have to take the wheels off as long as the car was on flat ground. Used Toyota links and Energy poly bushings (same size as the rear, and they come in a 8 pack at Autozone). The only thing here, was I have to shave off 1/8" from the top bushing, to get everything to fit correctly.

Parts were from Autozone (Energy) and the OEM parts were from Dealer Parts Direct - saved about $25 over dealer prices.

The ride is amazing and so much better. The old bushings were worn down to the point that the rear links had 1/4 play up and down, and on both, the metal sleeves on the lowers just fell out. The car now goes through the corners with minimal sway. and does not feel at all unsettled when taking turns.

Nice way to spend a Saturday morning! Thanks to everyones help here, with all the pictures and advice!
LC Sway Bar link front.JPG
LC Sway Bar Rear.JPG
 
thanks for posting.
Would be nice to list the part numbers up too to help folks even more.
 
Parts used

9418461001 Front Link Nut 2
9017908062 Rear Link Nut 2
9038511021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2
9056010275 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Spacer 2
4882060032 Front Link Kit 2

Above parts are all OEM Toyota from Dealer Direct Parts.

9.8105R Energy Suspension Universal Kit 8 bushings and washers. Autozone 12.99

These bushings fit nice and snug on the front, but are a tad loose on the rear. However when tightened, they snug up really well.

I also replaced the lower nut and bolt on at the sway bar but cannot find the part number. I reused all the old washers for the bushings, after a clean up.

I highly recommend this to anyone with a high mileage LC. The difference is quite amazing. If you have access to air tools, use them, it makes the job a lot faster - this took me 1.5 hours, for all 4 corners. Had to take the rear wheels off.

Next up, is to replace the steering rack bushings with Super Pro Poly.
 
9418461001 Front Link Nut 2
9017908062 Rear Link Nut 2
9038511021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2
9056010275 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Spacer 2
4882060032 Front Link Kit 2

Above parts are all OEM Toyota from Dealer Direct Parts.

9.8105R Energy Suspension Universal Kit 8 bushings and washers. Autozone 12.99

These bushings fit nice and snug on the front, but are a tad loose on the rear. However when tightened, they snug up really well.

I also replaced the lower nut and bolt on at the sway bar but cannot find the part number. I reused all the old washers for the bushings, after a clean up.

I highly recommend this to anyone with a high mileage LC. The difference is quite amazing. If you have access to air tools, use them, it makes the job a lot faster - this took me 1.5 hours, for all 4 corners. Had to take the rear wheels off.

Next up, is to replace the steering rack bushings with Super Pro Poly.

Why the Autozone bushings instead of all OEM?
 
I started a similar thread when mine went and got opinions that poly actually wear faster - time will tell as I went with poly despite getting 170K out of the rubber.

By the way, there is a rear sway.

I couldn't tell a lick of difference in the ride after replacing.
 
I started a similar thread when mine went and got opinions that poly actually wear faster - time will tell as I went with poly despite getting 170K out of the rubber.

Poly wearing faster doesn't have anything to do with how it performs. You can engineer a 100,000 mile tire but it would suck to actually use. Generally poly is stiffer than the stock rubber so it will provide a more accurate ride but sometimes is more harsh or louder than the rubber it replaced

By the way, there is a rear sway.

Sure is, I guess that's why the OP R&R'ed the rear as well.

I couldn't tell a lick of difference in the ride after replacing.

I expect some would notice and some would not it would depend on the condition of the parts replaced and driving style/conditions.
 
Difference

I started a similar thread when mine went and got opinions that poly actually wear faster - time will tell as I went with poly despite getting 170K out of the rubber.

By the way, there is a rear sway.

I couldn't tell a lick of difference in the ride after replacing.

Hi...maybe your originals were not that bad. We live in a hilly area, and the bushings that came out were definitely worn pretty badly. When I turned the wheel to full lock on either side, it would make a crunching sound, that is now gone. The rears were not as bad, but the bushings that attach to the bar were toast, and t he metal spacers had way too much play-not snug at all.

I found a definite difference in the rear, not as much in the front, except for the crunch. Let my wife drive it without telling her what was done, just asked her to see if she noticed anything different. She came back and said the truck was much better on the curves.
 
Keep an eye on your front link nuts. The poly bushes done compress as much as rubber, so the nut is not down far enough to have some free threads showing above the nut.

Nice. I wish my rear sway bar mount looked that clean.

I think Klaus might have been talking about general corrosion around chassis rails and ARB mounting bracket. Mine looks gnarly in that area too.
 
Nuts

I shaved 1/4 inch of the top bushing, for that reason. Now it threads all the way on.
 
I ordered the superpro bushings for my front and they were too thick to fit. I took it up with superpro and they they feigned interest in the problem and then passively blew me off. Still have the bushings sitting on my shelf.
 
Cushions

I ordered the superpro bushings for my front and they were too thick to fit. I took it up with superpro and they they feigned interest in the problem and then passively blew me off. Still have the bushings sitting on my shelf.

Has anyone tried the Super Pro poly bushings where the bar mounts to the frame? I was looking at the front and it looks pretty challenging to replace!
 
Very Nice virafp, I have a clunk in the rear after changing out shocks and adding airbags and the only thing I can think of is those sway bar links.
Is there a bushing for the bottom where you changed your bolt? Is this 9038511021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2 ???

Mine must be toast, but while I am in there, I am headed to Autozone first for the tops. I fogot about these Engery pieces, changed out my old '95 4Runner and it made difference, so it can't hurt here.

Nice photos too.
 
Bushings

Very Nice virafp, I have a clunk in the rear after changing out shocks and adding airbags and the only thing I can think of is those sway bar links.
Is there a bushing for the bottom where you changed your bolt? Is this 9038511021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2 ???

Mine must be toast, but while I am in there, I am headed to Autozone first for the tops. I fogot about these Engery pieces, changed out my old '95 4Runner and it made difference, so it can't hurt here.

Nice photos too.

Thanks...yes, the part number you have is correct. I would also replace the spacer that goes inside..part is 9056010275. Put the rubber in the sway bar first, then slide in the spacer. A spray bottle with soapy water works well.
 
As a comparison, here are some OEM pricings for ya.
Rear Only: Just the sway bar link.
48817-30010........$7.96/each - Cushion. Need 4 (2 each side)
90101-10172........$4.48 - Bolt - 2
90560-10275........$6.84 - Spacer - 2
90385-11021........$4.76 - Bushing - 2
94180-41000........$4.28 - Nut - 2
I am not ordering until I tear it apart tonight to replace my Airlift 1000 bag, then I will see what I actuall need to stop my clunk noise that irritates me to no end. Yikes, $77.52 total, they sure are proud of their parts.
At these prices, I will let the Poly wear out quicker, 8 for $12.99 (Energy) vs 4 for $31.84 (Toyota)
 
I tackled this last week but am just getting around to posting some pics. The rear bar was super easy. I used the man-a-fre extended links. Front was a little tougher as I had to cut the nuts off of the links. Everything is much tighter and more controlled on the road. I think I got rid of some suspension pops too. The culprit was probably the front passenger link bolt which had all the threads smashed down. Crazy on a grade 8 bolt!

Here are some pics of the removed parts:

6965EC2A-848A-4275-821E-E65866B62AA1-1337-000002FA676866E7.jpg

27C06636-D835-4BB8-8FCB-9C3A96388256-1337-000002FA570B96B2.jpg
 
As a comparison, here are some OEM pricings for ya.
Rear Only: Just the sway bar link.
48817-30010........$7.96/each - Cushion. Need 4 (2 each side)
90101-10172........$4.48 - Bolt - 2
90560-10275........$6.84 - Spacer - 2
90385-11021........$4.76 - Bushing - 2
94180-41000........$4.28 - Nut - 2
I am not ordering until I tear it apart tonight to replace my Airlift 1000 bag, then I will see what I actuall need to stop my clunk noise that irritates me to no end. Yikes, $77.52 total, they sure are proud of their parts.
At these prices, I will let the Poly wear out quicker, 8 for $12.99 (Energy) vs 4 for $31.84 (Toyota)
Looking at online parts prices (cruiserdan should be able to match/better this)
48817-30010........$2.49/each - Cushion. Need 4 (2 each side) $9.96
90101-10172........$1.40/each - Bolt - 2 $2.80
90560-10275........$2.14/each - Spacer - 2 $4.28
90385-11021........$1.49/each- Bushing - 2 $2.98
94180-41000........$1.34/each - Nut - 2 $2.68
Adds up to $22.70
A lot different than $77.52?
At these prices I'd go rubber any day

If you want to do this job properly, change the rubbers that the sway bay sits in as well
48815-60140........$9.63/each - Bush - 2 - $19.26
 
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