SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (21 Viewers)

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I agree i pack 5 tires. To be clear i buy the plan on all five.
Tire shops, around here, scan those babies in so they know if
Youre trying to get over on them. I even asked a texh amd laughed saying its
Im the computer man.
 
Okay - got the KO2's on order. I knew going in but to actually see the paper quote took my breath away. I'm used to paying $150/tire so $350 (plus more tax) is really hard to swallow.

Anyway, I usually never get tire protection insurance. But given I'm buying these tires to go into (semi) hazardous areas off pavement, should I get the tire protection - it's $45/tire. I don't think I would need it but then again I don't have any off pavement experience.

What do you guys usually do? Get it or pass on it? I'm usually going to be on easy to moderate-easy trails but rocks and wood are common.

I like nice things. And I'll splurge for really nice things. But I also value money. And I want the most I can get for every dollar spent.

Consider the following value proposition. You're paying for the name and benchmark performance of the K02's. Falken's A/T3W's are of a very recent design coming out after the K02's, and have been competitively benchmarked against it in development. It's been said by an internal tire engineer that it trades blows with the K02's. For the sake of discussion, let's assume the K02s are indeed better.

Falkens can be had for $229.99. Compared to $350 for K02s. Are K02s that much better that they're worth 50% more coin? Only you can answer. You can get a free 5th tire and still be under the cost of 4 K02s.

I'll also say that AT2's are of an old design. It's not in the current competitive set.

I'm very particular about my tires. The ATW3s have absolutely met my expectations over the last 10k miles and they still look practically new. Traction is a non-issue over anything and everything so far. And highway performance and handling is on point.

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Thanks guys. I would have preferred a less costly option but I have no experience with any of these brands, including the BFG. I didn't find a lot of review and rating information on Nitto, Falken or Toyo offerings like I did with the BFG. So, I'm getting the KO2s installed this weekend.

I hope to meet more people and get some first hand experience with other options over the next few years. Also, some tires didn't come in 285/55/20 (the sizes available in 20 I think may lead to rubbing).

Biting the bullet this time around - hoping to have more options based on experience next time around. Including maybe buying 18" TRD rims.
 
I tried finding this behavior in the manual but didn't see anything re: automatic height adjustments while driving (on pavement) in Normal height mode.

I may be imagining this but it seems like there are occasions where the LX seems to lower in height after coming to a stop. If any height adjustments, it seems like it should rise in height. It's not consistent as I've tried to replicate to confirm whether or not: 1) height is actually changing, 2) it's lowering rather than raising.

Is there some AHC behavior where the height would automatically change as I come to a stop?
 
I tried finding this behavior in the manual but didn't see anything re: automatic height adjustments while driving (on pavement) in Normal height mode.

I may be imagining this but it seems like there are occasions where the LX seems to lower in height after coming to a stop. If any height adjustments, it seems like it should rise in height. It's not consistent as I've tried to replicate to confirm whether or not: 1) height is actually changing, 2) it's lowering rather than raising.

Is there some AHC behavior where the height would automatically change as I come to a stop?

Below is the technical manual on height adjustments and speed thresholds at which they happen. Though the system is always active and will re-level at times based on situation/load/etc.

I've noticed it adjusting at times also when coming to a stop. More-so after a spirited drive, coming down an exit ramp hot, and stopping in a more firm fashion, where I notice the rear correct to a lower position. This is counter to intuition, as it supposedly lowers at 100 km/h (62mph) in highway driving. But note that it will re-raise to normal height once below 80 km/h (50mph). I chalk it up to aero loads and being on a downgrade, that it has to drop the rear down again once at a stop. Perfectly normal.

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More-so after a spirited drive, coming down an exit ramp hot, and stopping in a more firm fashion, where I notice the rear correct to a lower position. This is counter to intuition, as it supposedly lowers at 100 km/h (62mph) in highway driving. But note that it will re-raise to normal height once below 80 km/h (50mph). I chalk it up to aero loads and being on a downgrade, that it has to drop the rear down again once at a stop. Perfectly normal.

That sounds about like about what I seem to be seeing. Yes, it does seem counter intuitive hence my question. Good to know that I'm not imagining this, that this is NOT a problem (ie - bug in software) and is perfectly normal under certain conditions. Not sure exactly what the conditions are but good to know that this curiosity is normal.

Thanks for the info! Nice chart.
 
Thanks tec for sharing this manual.

Based on this chart, if I set my setting on low (or high) at the beginning of my ride the AHC will eventually be set to normal height after surpassing 10 MPH and stay at normal, correct?

If yes, is it possible to set AHC so that ride begins and ends on initial height setting?
 
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If one were in normal drive mode, the graph shows that the behavior is to always revert to normal mode after some speed threshold. If in H, the system will always revert to normal at 30 km/h (~20mph). It does not revert back to the previously set position.

However...

Note the lighter dotted line which traces the behavior of low range mode. That mode does revert back to higher ride height modes when slowing to lower speeds. And it maintains additional ground clearance to higher speed levels of ~50mph before seeking normal ride heights for stability.

The uninformed will fault this lowering behavior at speed. But the reality is no one is driving at those elevated speeds, if there's any obstacles that won't clear the body at normal clearance heights (or axles!!), as the threat of rollovers is probably more real. Unless one is baja running, where more suspension stroke is helpful. Then again, that's where AHC shines, as it will dynamically up compression damping at higher speeds to resist bottoming out.

There's always the ability to sensor lift AHC height all around. So normal starts 35mm higher. And every other position goes up by 35mm accordingly. Say hello to extra high mode at 115mm (4.5"+) higher than stock!
 
@airforce1 do you mean kneel mode? Yes, you can enable it to go to low whenever the key is turned off. It will then seek normal as soon as you exceed 7 mph or so. One of the bottoms on left side of dash if I recall. I leave it in this mode all the time, helps my kids get in
 
Has anyone else had issues with the rear passenger doors weather stripping being worn/torn from the rear window trim? I just noticed the trim is quite rough and rubbed a small tear in the weather stripping from opening and closing.
 
Has anyone else had issues with the rear passenger doors weather stripping being worn/torn from the rear window trim? I just noticed the trim is quite rough and rubbed a small tear in the weather stripping from opening and closing.

Yes. I replaced mine on all four door-windows a couple months ago on my 2008. But I’m referring to the window openings where the glass rolls down into the door. Perhaps you mean the seal where the door closes? If so...mine are fine after 11 years.
 
Yes. I replaced mine on all four door-windows a couple months ago on my 2008. But I’m referring to the window openings where the glass rolls down into the door. Perhaps you mean the seal where the door closes? If so...mine are fine after 11 years.

Yes sorry- I mean the interior seal. I've noticed the trim on the rear glass slightly rubs the seal and both rear door seals are worn. The driver side is torn a bit.
 
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Anyone noticed rust droplets on their car after being wet? It appears to be sourcesd from the window trim. I am thinking it has rust behind there and it sprinkles rusty water after a rainstorm.
 
View attachment 1707574 View attachment 1707575 View attachment 1707576 View attachment 1707577 Anyone noticed rust droplets on their car after being wet? It appears to be sourcesd from the window trim. I am thinking it has rust behind there and it sprinkles rusty water after a rainstorm.

What makes you sure it’s rust rather than simply dust/dirt/etc captured by droplets of water?

If rust was that extreme...it would most likely leave a TRAIL of discoloration near the source. I suspect you are looking at dust in water droplets. Just shows up brownish on your white rig.
 
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Anyone noticed rust droplets on their car after being wet? It appears to be sourcesd from the window trim. I am thinking it has rust behind there and it sprinkles rusty water after a rainstorm.

Looks more like pollen than rust ;)
 
Sorry, it’s not pollen. Look at the chrome trim carefully at full res....there are rust spots there. Also, I forgot to mention that your see a trail of brown water after a car wash sourced from the trim.

Just wondering if this something common.

Thanks!
 
Sorry, it’s not pollen. Look at the chrome trim carefully at full res....there are rust spots there. Also, I forgot to mention that your see a trail of brown water after a car wash sourced from the trim.

Just wondering if this something common.

Thanks!
Grinder dust sitting on top of the chrome/paint is my bet. There is some of those same looking spots on the rear hatch of my 200 from a lazy body shop that was involved before I owned it. If that is indeed what they are, I'd bet you can feel them if you run your fingernail over them. They should come off with a clay bar.

I'd bet it's pretty common. This is certainly not the first car I've had with the same issue. Most people probably just don't notice it.
 
Help! I am happy as a pig in $hit to be tire shopping for BFG KO2s for my new (to me) RW wheels, but now which one? 285/70-17? 285/75-17? 305/65-17? I know the first one is the most common size recommended here, but please bear with my logic.

My priority is good high speed, winding-road manners as I drive long highways to wilderness areas in a very heavy rig. For my off road driving, logging and forest service roads are 95% of my diet. But I would also like to go taller than my Toyos, which measure 32".

I'm coming from Toyo Back Country 285/65-18s, which IMO have great pavement grip, so I am leaning towards the 305/65 for its larger pavement contact patch. Since KO2s have such a great reputation for tire wear, I am assuming they use a harder compound that won't grip as well to pavement as the Toyos.

So now, as enablers of my land cruiser addiction, how would you advise me to spend my hard earned cash? Any others tires I should consider? :)
 
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Help! I am happy as a pig in $hit to be tire shopping for BFG KO2s for my new (to me) RW wheels, but now which one? 285/70-17? 285/75-17? 305/65-17? I know the first one is the most common size recommended here, but please bear with my logic.

My priority is good high speed, winding-road manners as I drive long highways to wilderness areas in a very heavy rig. For my off road driving, logging and forest service roads are 95% of my diet. But I would also like to go taller than my Toyos, which measure 32".

I'm coming from Toyo Back Country 285/65-18s, which IMO have great pavement grip, so I am leaning towards the 305/65 for its larger pavement contact patch. Since KO2s have such a great reputation for tire wear, I am assuming they use a harder compound that won't grip as well to pavement as the Toyos.

So now, as enablers of my land cruiser addiction, how would you advise me to spend my hard earned cash? Any others tires I should consider? :)

285/70/17 will get you 32”.

So if your goal is to bump up...that won’t do it.
 

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