Spring Cleaning and Tune-up

[CDN_Cruiser]

Well, I finally bit the bullet and I'm off tomorrow to spend a small fortune having some rust spots fixed on the truck...what fun. At least I get a fixed and repainted tail gate hatch and a newly painted roof. I should have the beast back within 4 days and I'm praying they don't smash the front window and add some more $$$ to the cost. I plan to bring the camera and take pics of the damage with the windows out.

I've placed my first order with CDan for lots-o-little stuff that's been bothering me for ages (fixing door light switches, new gas cap, CDL, washer gizmo, etc). I also did the quick clean of the throttle body (left it on) - it was a bit dirty, and idle seems to have gone down a bit, but still not sure if I did anything.

A quick question based on this - as I peered throught the TB into the 'air chamber' (? the thing on the DS past the TB) with a flashlight I could see some oily deposits inside the 'air chamber' - is that normal/OK?

Second question, I've been thinking about replacing the plugs, wires and dist cap (all original - wires are marked 1996, but truck only has ~70K miles). I did a quick check of resistance on the #1 wire and well withing FSM specs (<8ohms) but thought that it may still be a good idea and I'll keep this stuff for spares...here's the next question...

...gulp, I've never replaced a dist cap before <blush>. So, is it simple 'plug and play' or am I going to get into trouble? From reading past posts it looks like I should change the cap, wires and plugs (a bit scared after reading about potential to strip the #6 plug - any tips? - I'm amazed at how deep they are). It also looks like I should change the 'rotor' - I'm assuming that's under the cap and not a big deal to pull and replace?

I've also heard mention of the 'coil' - what's that, where is it and should I replace it?

Sorry for the newb questions...can anyone recommend a good 'beginner mechanics' book or web site?

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Junk]

Hugh, yes, changing the plugs, cap, rotor and wires are all quite simple (yes, I can do it), just takes some time. Dont' be too nervous about the #6, just take your time. Also change the PCV and grommet. If the wires are in spec, that's cool, but my view is that at 70k, you've gotten good use out them.

I really don't think you'll run into any issues at all.

 

[DRTDuck]

check the resistane on the number 6 wire, it should be the higest, if it is still within spec, the wires could wait, but plugs, cap, rotor, pcv and grommet are all good pm.

 

[Beowulf]

>> I'm assuming that's under the cap and not a big deal to pull and replace? <<

Hugh,
When you remove the cap, you will see the rotor. It just pulls off the dizzy shaft and you slide the new one on. For a newbie, it would be good for you to look the cap over carefully so you are certain you are putting the plug wires back on the correct terminal. If you're replacing the plug wires at the same time, just be sure to do one at a time.

Tape the spark plug socket to the extension when working on #6.

When you pull the PCV, the old grommet may come apart. Use care to keep it out of the valve cover.
-B-

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Thanks for the comments so far.

What's the purpose of taping the socket to the extension - just because it can pull off? Should I do something to 'stick' the plugs in the sockets so they don't drop down into the hole?

Cheers, Hugh

 

[RavenTai]

There are sockets with a rubber grommet in them for just that purpose, I could not find mine when I did my 80’s plugs so I used a strong magnet on the little end to send them and turn then in about half a thread so I could remove the magnet without pulling the plug out, just dropping them in the hole could damage the electrode, spark plugs are cheap enough but if a piece of insulator or electrode breaks off and gets in the combustion chamber it can cause a lot of damage as the head a piston play racket ball with it

#6 is hard to get to because of the heater hosing in that area, yes the tape is to keep everything together, I found a swivel made it much easier to get in there and keep the socket straight, torque the plugs to 14’lbs, be careful threading the plugs in, best to work with a bare extension in your hand as you start to thread them in, if you feel any unusual resistance stop reverse until unthreaded and try again, you do not want to cross thread that head

 

[Doc]

Don't make too much of a big thing out of cyl #6 plug. I took mine out this weekend with no trouble.

I also squirted some WD40 in each plug hole before re-installation to make it easier. WD40 is combustable too!

The heater hose isn't a big deal, I just pushed it out of the way.

 

[Scamper]

Hugh,

That oily looking stuff in the intake is probably just varnish from over 70K of driving; I wouldn't worry about it. If your idle is still somewhat high or erratic, I think you should consider pulling the TB and doing a really good job of cleaning it. Suff will accumulate behind the butterfly and you can't see it with the TB in place, but it can prevent the butterfly from closing fully. Another thing you might consider is pulling the IAC and cleaning that out--only takes about 5 min and is easy.

As for the plugs, all the spark plug sockets I've ever owned all had a rubber insert that held the plug in the socket so that it won't drop out. As RavenTai noted, use an extension and thread it in using your fingers only--you should be able to seat it competely doing this--then use the torque wrench to tighten only. If you can thread it by hand, you're not cross-threading. Do this for ALL the plugs...not just #6.

If you buy a cap and/or wires from Dan (OEM), you'll see that they make it pretty moron-proof by putting the cylinder number on both the cap and wires. Pretty difficult to mess that up. You'll need some girly hands to get the bottom screw/nut off the cap; the other two are easy. A 1/4 inch ratchet with short extension works well for me.

Don't forget to pop the top of the EGR modulator off and check the filter. Clean it off and put it back (I rotate mine to give it a new spot each time I do this--figure I can get quite a few "rotations" before I need to find a source for new filters).

 

[nakman]

Hugh, as long as you're screwing around in there have you emptied out your tuna can? another easy/free one..

 

[Safado]

I emptied mine on the snorkel install...what a mess in there.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Guys:

Thanks for the tips - the tuna can is clean! I'll check my plug socket to see if it has the rubber do-dad and I like the idea of just setting it by hand to reduce the change of damaging the threads.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Bryan E.]

Hugh,

I just put plugs, wires, rotor, dist. cap, pcv valve and gromet tonight so I have some fresh tips. My plugs obviously not installed with anti sieze compound on them and after the first one was scairy tough to remove, I squirted PB Blaster in the hole before removing. I let it sit while I pulled the next plug boot off, and by then had soaked into the threads.
I highly recommend you put ANTI SEIZE COMPOUND lightly on the threads of new plugs! One can will last a lifetime of normal use and it's cheap insurance. I put some on the threads with a small screwdriver then used my finger to wipe it uniformily on the threads so they're coated but not enough to drip onto the tip.
I also put dielectric grease on the plug wire sockets to keep them from sticking in the future. I even put it on the dist. cap sockets lighly.
The old PCV valve was hard to remove, so I used a vise grip and stood it upright and clamped it from the top, then put a small block of wood underneath and used a hammer to "Pull" the old valve and old gromment as well.
A 1/4 ratchet makes getting to the screw on the underside of the dist. cap real easy.


Bryan

 

[sandcruiser]

motor oil instead of antisieze on the plug threads-- at least that's what the FSM says. I just changed the plug wires on two motors today (well sorta- 2F got new wires, F got 2F's old wires, F's wires in trash). Total job took about 10 minutes. Both motors are happier.

Question for everyone: does the F motor call for a different spark plug than the 2F? and if so, what plug would that be? I don't have a manual nor factory book for the '73.

Cap and rotor are really straight forward, you'll do fine.