Splicing in external Subwoofer (1 Viewer)

[khansmith]

I have a 2001 LX470 with a Mark Levinson system. After repairing the stock sub, I am still not getting great sound. I have an 8 ohm subwoofer in a box that I want to splice into the current wiring that plugs into the stock subwoofer. I do not intend to hook up both subs. The plug that goes into the stock subwoofer has four wires. My external sub/box only has two wires. I need help identifying which wires I need to cut and splice wires to go to the external sub.

Thanks in advance!

 

[rbrave]

I believe the OEM LX sub has dual voice coils. If you are going to run an aftermarket sub, either find one that matches the specs exactly and is efficient enough to run on low power (may not exist?), or run a separate amp to power your replacement that is in hand.

 

[khansmith]

I believe the OEM LX sub has dual voice coils. If you are going to run an aftermarket sub, either find one that matches the specs exactly and is efficient enough to run on low power (may not exist?), or run a separate amp to power your replacement that is in hand.

I did the research on the speaker and it fits all the specs. Do you know which wires I need to splice into per my original question?

 

[Patassa]

I did the research on the speaker and it fits all the specs. Do you know which wires I need to splice into per my original question?

Sounds like you're trying to go from DVC to SVC? In that case, use ohm meter to find the combination that gives you positive voltage when your red probe is on a wire and your black probe is grounded, and then the wire that gives you negative voltage on your red probe while your black is grounded. You could probably combine both + wires and both - wires and see how that goes.

 

[rbrave]

I would be very careful with splicing wires together in this situation. You have potential to bridge a non-bridgeable channel on your amp, and could fry at minimum that channel or potentially more.

If you wanted to do this, I would look at the wiring diagram and hook a single channel (2 of the 4 wires) up first. Dig in here to see what variation your stereo is: Replacing Your Audio System: Overview - https://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/10/replacing-your-audio-system-overview/

 

[Patassa]

I would be very careful with splicing wires together in this situation. You have potential to bridge a non-bridgeable channel on your amp, and could fry at minimum that channel or potentially more.

If you wanted to do this, I would look at the wiring diagram and hook a single channel (2 of the 4 wires) up first. Dig in here to see what variation your stereo is: Replacing Your Audio System: Overview - https://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/10/replacing-your-audio-system-overview/

I abused many an amp back in my high school days. Running 2 ohm stable amps at 1ohm, they usually just cut out for a while and maybe get a little hot. To be fair, I have no idea if the original sub was 4ohm dvc wired in series? parallel? what was the final load at the amp? IDK.

 

[rbrave]

To be frank, I expect this will be a super disappointing experiment. The stock amp makes 240w across 11 channels. That is right around 20 watts to your sub, if you only hook one of those up, still under 50 if you bridge them or use a dvc sub.

Take a look in your service manual for a wiring diagram: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2001-lx470-serice-manual.247/

 

[khansmith]

Thanks for the advice/replies. I appreciate it.

 

[dbleon]

Run high level inputs into an external amp that has automatic remote turn on sensing AND a feature like the audiocontrol accubass tech ( I believe many amps now do) Then run standalone sub/ box. This is how my brother Al told me it could be done.. he’s an audio wizard

 

[dbleon]

But for your 01 if non nav you should be able to install a double din head unit with typical preamps and run aftermarket amplification and speakers. That’s the all or nothing method.

You MIGHT be able to run a DSP with new wire runs to each speaker and be able to control all the ML speakers that way… but at that point I’d want better speakers. I think all the magic of the ML system is in the tuning. They speakers are cheapo.

But to just run an external sub, it sounds like your going to want a bass restoration feature build in to the amp.. or perhaps a line driver with a similar capability

 

[willyroo]

I believe the OEM LX sub has dual voice coils.

Unfortunately not for the ML system. It's only single coil, and IIRC the "sub" (if you can call a 6.5" driver a sub ) runs a reasonably high resistance. So if you run another make sure it's at least 8 ohms - so if it's a 4 ohm DVC wire it to 8 ohms.

When we first did the refoam last year, I made it a bit easier to replace the driver. In the end I ditched the whole ML system - but that's another story and $$ .

Unfor

 

[rbrave]

Interesting - OP, that pic has your answer, so long as the amp didnt blow up! Looks like they must bridge the sub channel.

There’s an unfinished “Unfor” that I suspect is … “Unfortunately it still didn’t sound much better.”

 

[willyroo]

Looks like they must bridge the sub channel.

Or they've kept the same loom from the dual 4" system in the Nakamichi setup?

 

[rbrave]

Or they've kept the same loom from the dual 4" system in the Nakamichi setup?

This would make much more sense!

 

[khansmith]

Unfortunately not for the ML system. It's only single coil, and IIRC the "sub" (if you can call a 6.5" driver a sub ) runs a reasonably high resistance. So if you run another make sure it's at least 8 ohms - so if it's a 4 ohm DVC wire it to 8 ohms.

When we first did the refoam last year, I made it a bit easier to replace the driver. In the end I ditched the whole ML system - but that's another story and $$ .

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Unfor

Thank you very much. Exactly what I was looking for!