Spindle/Bushing Help
- Thread starter cjonezy
- Start date
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reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
A little history please. Did it fit before you took it apart? Is it the correct spindle? Did you bead/sand blast that spindle (and the bushing)? Did you put some assembly lube on it?
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
The spindle is from the FJ60, correct?
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
If it is, you may need to hone the bushing.
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
If I wasn't sitting in an airport I could check the FSM. Depending on how much needs to be removed to get it to fit, a brake hone, or similar, is a more accurate method. You might be able to use the flap wheel if it just needs teeny bit (technical term). I would use a fine grit and test fit frequently.
It should not be a tight fit. Have you measured to check the difference? The birfield should spin freely in the spindle.
It should not be a tight fit. Have you measured to check the difference? The birfield should spin freely in the spindle.
I'm presently rebuilding my knuckles and I am looking at this same bushing. Inner end of the spindle. I'm trying to assess what the proper clearance should be for this and haven't found anything yet. I'm pretty sure mine hasn't ever been replaced and it currently has .010 of clearance. To me, that big. But I can't find any spec. I've heard that if you replace it you have to re-machine the ID to fit. I can do this properly if I have the target to hit.
plink01
SILVER Star
I replaced the spindle bushing in my 80 series and had the exact problem, it wouldn't fit. After doing a bit of research apparently they need to be machined to fit correctly.
After finding a machine shop it was nearly cheaper to buy a brand new spindle with the bushing already in it than it would have been to get the one I had to work.
So I ended up buying a Terrain Tamer spindle and it worked perfect.
After finding a machine shop it was nearly cheaper to buy a brand new spindle with the bushing already in it than it would have been to get the one I had to work.
So I ended up buying a Terrain Tamer spindle and it worked perfect.
Thanks But I'm trying to determine if they even need to be replaced. How does anyone know if they're worn too much ? If no one has a service limit or clearance value to work with. I understand many have to replace due to damage from a broken Birfield. I'm not in that situation. I'm simply trying to assess "what is worn? " All that said, If I do replace it I have the equipment and tools to bore these, once installed, to whatever size is required. But again, what should it be ?
The spindle and the axle will have clearance - they are not intended to seal in (or out) lubricants. And some clearance is needed for the lube to stay in there. Stupid question by me: If you have .010 clearance, why won't the pieces slide together?
If you mean that the interference is .010, then I would hone it to fit (with a few (or several) thousandths of play so you an assemble it), grease it up, and put it together.
These parts only turn when the hubs are locked, so it's not like they are seeing 10K miles/year. A lubricated steel axle riding on a greasy, wide bronze bushing is going to last a LONG time, as evidenced by how many people have never replaced the bushing, even on super-high miles trucks.
If you mean that the interference is .010, then I would hone it to fit (with a few (or several) thousandths of play so you an assemble it), grease it up, and put it together.
These parts only turn when the hubs are locked, so it's not like they are seeing 10K miles/year. A lubricated steel axle riding on a greasy, wide bronze bushing is going to last a LONG time, as evidenced by how many people have never replaced the bushing, even on super-high miles trucks.
I currently have ,010 clearance. .005 per side if you want to think of it that way. No problem putting it together. Just trying to decide what is too much clearance. What is a "worn out" bushing ? This clearance allows the axle to wobble in the axle tube seal. Too much it leaks. But I can't find anything in the way of numbers to assess what is a bad bushing. Just hoping someone might be able to provide some information I can't find.
Nerd alert: See attached Timken manual.
Pages 4 and 5 talk about shaft-to-bore misalignment, runout, and tolerances for oil seals.
Page 13, Model 26 (first line in table - General Purpose Seal) shows .015" at 1000 rpm as the allowable 'shaft misalignment' and .010" at 2000 rpm. So, by this, you are mostly in-spec for a Timkin seal. I'm going to guess that most lip seals have about the same allowances. Based on this, I would not hog-out that bronze bushing any further, however. I did not read this entire Timkin manual, nor do I have any affiliation - I'm just posting it for situational awareness. I looked at a Parker-Hannefin guide and their suggested shaft-to-bore misalignment max was .010, as well.
I doubt that there is any wear spec in the FJ40 FSM, so you might as well work with an industry source.
Pages 4 and 5 talk about shaft-to-bore misalignment, runout, and tolerances for oil seals.
Page 13, Model 26 (first line in table - General Purpose Seal) shows .015" at 1000 rpm as the allowable 'shaft misalignment' and .010" at 2000 rpm. So, by this, you are mostly in-spec for a Timkin seal. I'm going to guess that most lip seals have about the same allowances. Based on this, I would not hog-out that bronze bushing any further, however. I did not read this entire Timkin manual, nor do I have any affiliation - I'm just posting it for situational awareness. I looked at a Parker-Hannefin guide and their suggested shaft-to-bore misalignment max was .010, as well.
I doubt that there is any wear spec in the FJ40 FSM, so you might as well work with an industry source.
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Thanks I've decided to press in new ones and bore them to ,003-,005 clearance. And see what happens. You're link is the best data I've seen. I should have thought of that !!!
