Speedytech7's "I can't believe it's not modded" FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 28, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
207
Location
Spokane, WA
Well after I rolled my 95 Tacoma wheeling in Oregon this beautiful 1993 Land Cruiser fell into my lap and now I guess I have to make another forum account and build thread. Maybe I'll remember to update this one more than my Taco. It is a triple locked, automatic transmission, 6cyl short bus. She runs like brand new and looks like it too. Came from it's first owner in California straight to me. :)

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I've since rebuilt my Tacoma and it is my wheeler and camping rig so the cruiser just gets daily duty because honestly given what it is worth and its condition I would feel bad making a wheeling rig out of it. I needed something I can tow with anyway (supercharged 4cyl taco isn't ideal).

So far on the cruiser I have done a few things...

  • CDL Switch for 93-94 dash
  • Changed switches in transfer case to restore CDL function and 4low shift point recognition
  • Replaced the PHH with the green stripe bypass method
  • Replaced rad hoses as well as tiny coolant hoses around the engine
  • Added condenser fan so the A/C has an easier time keeping up in Phoenix traffic
  • Did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
  • New brake lines for front axle
  • New front calipers and pads
  • Removed factory radio and amp/sub amp to install new Sony headunit and speakers
  • Added Tekonsha P3 brake controller and 7 pin trailer plug
  • I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting

Pretty soon going to be installing some Dobinsons stock height springs and maybe either some stock toyota shocks or I'm just go ham and put in some Icons or Kings. I have both Icon and King shocks on my Tacoma so it's a bit hard to decide between the two.

Here are a couple more current pictures...

I don't think my cruiser is feeling good, the dash puked out a whole bunch of rotten 90s hifi nonsense.

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That thing's redder than a puppy dog's ding dong.
 
Beautiful truck! Great score!

Have you tried getting those bolts off that hold your hitch on? Mine look about like that and they will not budge. I want to drop my hitch to replace some of the inner bumper parts with non-rusted parts, but I don't want to cut them because I use the hitch to carry my bikes with.
 
That is a good looking truck. If you are going to take it on more than just logging roads, I highly recommend rock sliders. These will prevent so much body damage that they are almost essential (if you care about the body that is).
 
Beautiful truck! Great score!

Have you tried getting those bolts off that hold your hitch on? Mine look about like that and they will not budge. I want to drop my hitch to replace some of the inner bumper parts with non-rusted parts, but I don't want to cut them because I use the hitch to carry my bikes with.

Thanks! When I installed my brake controller I used an 18" ratchet to break one loose so I had a place to ground the trailer socket. They're pretty high grade bolts so I don't think they're a huge risk for twisting off. For some reason the rear of my truck from the axle back is kinda all rusty like that. I'll probably take the whole hitch off eventually to clean some of that up, it came from and lived it's whole life in CA so not sure what that's about.

That is a good looking truck. If you are going to take it on more than just logging roads, I highly recommend rock sliders. These will prevent so much body damage that they are almost essential (if you care about the body that is).

Thank you! This cruiser is getting daily duty for the foreseeable future, my Tacoma gets wheeling duty/carnage haha.

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Well after three years of driving it and doing most of the regular maintenance I think it's time to service the engine in depth. I want to take it out and clean it up physically since it has a front and rear main leak the likes of which I've never seen and I think the oil pump cover is leaking too. Figure I'll pull her all apart and get the engine up on a stand to change all that out. I don't really want to rebuild the engine yet, it seems fine, but I'm considering doing the HG just because it'll be easy with the whole shebang out of the truck. I'll change all the rubber in the engine bay to some that hasn't turned to plastic yet and delete the smog stuff (EGR already killed part of my wiring harness), and I'll be refurbishing the wiring harness. I was considering just making a new one but feeling how pliable the wires underneath are I don't think that is necessary, they're only crusty where they laid near the EGR. Just need to take some time to gather parts, this will be my end of summer project that needs to be finished by hard winter (Jan) when we get all our snow. I don't want to drive my tacoma in the snow if I don't have to.
 
Oh and I guess I should throw a picture or two in since for a little bit I used my tent on the cruiser until I could buy another Tacoma and I also threw some 33s on.

Untitled by Zane, on Flickr

I've since pulled the tent back off and put on some new shocks.
 
Oh and I guess I should throw a picture or two in since for a little bit I used my tent on the cruiser until I could buy another Tacoma and I also threw some 33s on.

Untitled by Zane, on Flickr

I've since pulled the tent back off and put on some new shocks.
These oil leaks are most likely the oil pan arches. The rear main seals are not a common issue. Mine has 302k miles and no leak. The front crank seal is easily replaced while you replacing the oil pump cover O-ring.

I, and many others, have done everything you want to do without removing the engine. Room to work is one of the great things about an in-line six.
 
These oil leaks are most likely the oil pan arches. The rear main seals are not a common issue. Mine has 302k miles and no leak. The front crank seal is easily replaced while you replacing the oil pump cover O-ring.

I, and many others, have done everything you want to do without removing the engine. Room to work is one of the great things about an in-line six.

I'll give it a really close look, I would much rather leave the engine in, it's been leaking pretty hardcore for the last three months and I can't quite see the front leak but the rear always ends up dripping right off the front of the trans bellhousing. I was just going to make my time worth it if I pulled it, I need to delete the rear heater and the emissions junk anyway. But other than dealing with the EGR pipe, most of that is still easy in the truck.
 
That paint is stunning.
 
I'll give it a really close look, I would much rather leave the engine in, it's been leaking pretty hardcore for the last three months and I can't quite see the front leak but the rear always ends up dripping right off the front of the trans bellhousing. I was just going to make my time worth it if I pulled it, I need to delete the rear heater and the emissions junk anyway. But other than dealing with the EGR pipe, most of that is still easy in the truck.
Once the engine is at operating temperature, remove the inspection cover from the bottom of te bell housing, start the engine and then use a mirror and flashlight to look up inside the bell housing directly at the rear crank seal and rear of the engine block below the seal. This is how I determined that mine was not leaking a few years ago.

Be mindful that the ring gear is rotating right there and will destroy a mirror instantly.

I like those older Taco’s and yours is the best color ....... welcome to the best vehicle and best club you’ll ever know.
 
I never update this thread, but I'm also fairly confident no one reads it haha. 99% of the time my Land Cruiser takes a backseat in the garage over my Tacoma or my little daily s***box Corolla. But I've had a big burst of motivation and energy to work on the LC lately (thing just feels tiring to work on compared to the others, and it is all boring maint vs actual fun parts). But nevertheless I had some pretty pressing stuff to take care of, the CDL had stopped functioning, so I pulled it and miraculously it works perfect now, I think the connector was just not making good contact. I was totally prepared to swap in a 100 series CDL actuator, guess that's a spare part now. Didn't take any pics of that but I did when I put some new tires on the old pig, I mostly use it in the winter since it is such a good snow rig. So I got some three peak snow rated ATs and so far I'm very happy with them.

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I also spent a minute and replaced the coolant bypass o-rings and removed the PAIR system so I could use the 95-97 heater tube. I had previously had a pretty bad coolant leak at the bypass tube.

Then yesterday I dug into the cooling system again and decided to flush the heater core aggressively with the hose. My coolant is always pretty clean, but I got a lot of flakes of "something" out and the heater seems to work a lot better now so that's a pleasant outcome for the effort.

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Next on the docket will be TREs and if I can swing the time I will finally press out/in radius arm bushings.
 

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