speedo woes

[wbb72fj40]

OK I DID A NEWBIE SEARCH AND HERB (NOT SURE HOW TO LINK)HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM BUT DID NOT POST THE RESULTS.

When I bought the 40 the speedo worked on the test drive but failed by the time I got home with cruiser in tow. I found the poly 6x17 gear was chewed so I went ahead and replaced it and the cable at the same time. Took it out for a test drive no luck.

Got back to the shop to test the Head and found that the head works with a drill but when you stop the drill the speedo dosn't fall to 0 it sticks or falls very slowly. Is this right? what do you lube in the head.

Also It hade chewed up a a 40$ gear in less than a mile.
alinement? or resistance from the head?

Read some posts on rear bering being bad in tc. But shoudln't you have some play in the ebrake drum and drive shaft if that was the case.

Should the internal ring gear have some movemen't to let the speedo gear self aline I saw where cooler man made a reference to that, but I wasn't clear to my dumbarsk.

 

[wbb72fj40]

Somebody? Anybody?

 

[Coolerman]

You sure your t-case drive gear is also a 6 x 17? (Not the driven small nylon gear, but the large driving gear)

If these don't match up (there are some mix and match gears that work but some that don't) it will ruin the small gear as you have found out.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/131975-speedo-correction-2.html

Also too much resistance in the speedo head would either break your cable or destroy the gear.

There are no spacers involved in the small driven gear housing but there is a spacer involved in the housing for the large metal gear. The only way to see it is to remove the e-brake backing plate.

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/Page34FImages/IMG_0687.jpg

 

[wbb72fj40]

trying to link

http://https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/262195-speedometer-question.html?highlight=SPEEDO

 

[wbb72fj40]

Okay i think i found the problem

I WAS TAKING MY DRIVE LINE OUT TO REPLACE THE U JOINTS, PUT MY DRIVE LINE IN TIME, FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS CAUSING MY ALL THE VIBRATION, AND GET THE # OF THE DRIVE GEAR WHEN I FOUND MY PROBLEM.

AS I PULLED THE BOLTS OF THE PARK BRAKE I NOTICED THAT IT WOULD SLIDE IN AND OUT A LITTLE. WELL I GOT THE LAST BOLT OUT AND THE DRUM FELL OFF.

SEEMS AS THE P.O. DIDN'T SEE THE VALUE IN COTTER KEYS. (YOU KNOW) FOR THE CASTLE NUT THAT HOLDS YOUR DRIVE LINE IN. WELL THAT LET THE GEAR WALK HALF ON AND HALF OFF THE DRIVE GEAR HOPFULLY CAUSING IT TO EAT UP MY POLY GEAR.

TEST DROVE AND THE NEEDLE DID GO UP TO ABOUT 25 EVEN WITH IT CHEWED UP. SO I FIGURE IT WILL WORK WHEN I GET THE HEAD LUBED AND A NEW POLY GEAR.

OH. IF YOU TAKE THE DRUM OFF AND GET A FLASHLIGHT YOU CAN SEE THE # ON THE BACK OF YOUR DRIVE GEAR WITHOUT TAKING THE HOUSING OFF.

WHILE I WAS UNDER THERE I NOTICE THAT MY PO DIDN'T SEE THE NEED IN PUTTING THOSE BOLTS IN THE BACK OF MY BRAKE CLY EITHER I GUESS HE THOUGHT THE HOSE WOULD HOLD IT IN PLACE. I AM BEGINING TO THINK THIS GUY IS WATCHING MY LOCAL NEWS PAPER TO SEE HOW LONG IT TAKES ME TO KILL MY SELF FROM HIS LACK OF MECH ABILITY.