Speaker grounding loop-whine with engine (1 Viewer)

[bucfl]

so you're changing from using the high level speaker outs on the jensen currently to low level on all five channels with the new amp? with no toyota wiring in the loop (except for the speaker wires directly after the old stock amp)?

I currently use the Metra to convert the Jensen 4 channel RCA to Toyota high level speaker wires. When i get the new amp thats when ill move over to RCA from HU to new amp. Then use toyota speaker wires after old amp.

If that's correct then probably. Assuming you only used a B+ and ACC from the toyota plug in the dash, and you ran your own ground and trigger wires from the jensen.

Not understanding this. Run ground and trigger wire from jensen?

Also assume that if you ran your high level speaker outs from the jensen straight to the speakers eliminating any toyota equipment or connectors between, the ground noise might/should be eliminated.

Yeah, i thought about this but i have an amp id like to power along with all speakers.

Is your sub amp in the rear or under the passenger seat? Where are you installing the new amp?

The current amp is a single channel that came with the sub. Its under the PS seat and will be replaced with the 5 channel amp.


Thanks for help!

 

[jerryb]

I currently use the Metra to convert the Jensen 4 channel RCA to Toyota high level speaker wires. When i get the new amp thats when ill move over to RCA from HU to new amp. Then use toyota speaker wires after old amp.

why didn't you just use the speaker lines, gray green white purple off the jensen to the speaker lines after the amp in the beginning to the deck install? There's no LOC in the metra, right? Maybe I'm understanding you wrong. Probably I am. Your jensen will take up to 6v, doesn't really matter if you're installing a new amp anyway.

Not understanding this. Run ground and trigger wire from jensen?

I mean, you got your red and yellow wire, battery positive and ACC positive either from your adapter plug, or cut from the toyota harness, and blue amp on/antenna on/remote wire to your amp from the jensen. And that you ran the black ground from the jensen to it's own dedicated body ground point somewhere.



Also assume that if you ran your high level speaker outs from the jensen straight to the speakers eliminating any toyota equipment or connectors between, the ground noise might/should be eliminated.

Yeah, i thought about this but i have an amp id like to power along with all speakers.

you mean you wanted to have the front 4 powered from the stock amp originally. I see.
What supranut said before is seriously the best info. Stock amp is s***, toyota speaker wiring is s***, ignore it.
---- irrelevant now if you're installing a new amp.



The current amp is a single channel that came with the sub. Its under the PS seat and will be replaced with the 5 channel amp.

I just asked because you really only need 5 foot RCAs, (I think I used 3 footers) and don't skimp on the power wire from battery. You really need 4 gauge wire and 4 gauge ground. I think mine was 12' from battery to under pass seat. Even if that soundstream is doing 600 continuously I think you should still go with 4 gauge. I'm around if you need help.

I can't stress enough the things that supranut has posted. It's the truth. Don't expect anything good retaining the stock amp. LX or LC
I also don't believe the stock HU puts out a true low, or RCA level signal. I installed an amp and tried both ways, hi level inputs and low level inputs into an aftermarket amp with the stock speaker lines under the seat after the stock amp. Neither way is worth a s***, don't bother.

It's cheaper, easier and produces astounding results when you start with a fresh install. I think people would be surprised what you can get with less than $500

 

[bucfl]

why didn't you just use the speaker lines, gray green white purple off the jensen to the speaker lines after the amp in the beginning to the deck install? There's no LOC in the metra, right? Maybe I'm understanding you wrong. Probably I am. Your jensen will take up to 6v, doesn't really matter if you're installing a new amp anyway.

Not sure...at the time, i wanted a simple integration so i went with the metra adapter.

Not understanding this. Run ground and trigger wire from jensen?

I mean, you got your red and yellow wire, battery positive and ACC positive either from your adapter plug, or cut from the toyota harness, and blue amp on/antenna on/remote wire to your amp from the jensen. And that you ran the black ground from the jensen to it's own dedicated body ground point somewhere.

Correct. i use the metra harness plug for all the connections and the blue cable amp remote straight to amp.


Also assume that if you ran your high level speaker outs from the jensen straight to the speakers eliminating any toyota equipment or connectors between, the ground noise might/should be eliminated.

Yeah, i thought about this but i have an amp id like to power along with all speakers.

you mean you wanted to have the front 4 powered from the stock amp originally. I see.
What supranut said before is seriously the best info. Stock amp is s***, toyota speaker wiring is s***, ignore it.
---- irrelevant now if you're installing a new amp.

Yes. The Jensen has rca outputs. I think if i by-pass the metra harness and wirring by using the rca's to amp, THEN use the existing toyota speaker wires under the PS seat that should eliminate the noise.

The current amp is a single channel that came with the sub. Its under the PS seat and will be replaced with the 5 channel amp.

I just asked because you really only need 5 foot RCAs, (I think I used 3 footers) and don't skimp on the power wire from battery. You really need 4 gauge wire and 4 gauge ground. I think mine was 12' from battery to under pass seat. Even if that soundstream is doing 600 continuously I think you should still go with 4 gauge. I'm around if you need help.

I was planning on using the existing ground and power under the PS. Bad idea?


Thanks again. I plan to order everything tomorrow. Anything else i may need?

 

[jerryb]

you for sure need the 5 channel wired from the battery, with new cable. I wouldn't go less than 4 gauge. I know those powered boxed subs use small wire, 8 or 10, but for that new amp you need bigger. You need 20 feet 4 gauge, an inline fuse holder plus soundstreams recommended fuse, probably 80amp? one lug for battery side. Then about two feet of the same wire for ground, one lug there.
under the pass seat middle of the forward mount rail is a good ground. The dimensions of that amp are good to fit under the seat.
I just went and read the soundstream specs, they say 8 gauge. I wouldn't do it. I'd use 4 all around and if the amp lug only accepts 8 I would cut the 4 down to fit. I think the run is just too long if you ask me.
It is beneficial to use your extra wire to redo the negative battery leads in the engine bay. I'll take another pic and show you. It will help things.

 

[jerryb]

there's one on the left bank also, but covered up.

 

[bucfl]

Great! Thank you very much! I'll report back asap.

 

[bucfl]

I received the amp and rca cables. I bypassed the oem wiring by using the rca cables and hooked up the speakers using the factory speaker wires under the PS seat. I could not be happier with the setup. It sounds great. I was really missing the high/low pass filters. The speakers sounds fantastic even without the sub.

Thanks @jerryb for the help.

 

[jerryb]

good deal.

 

[AZLandCruiserGuy]

Resurfacing this thread as I'm experiencing this on my '99. I watched the video and pretty much get what to do on the amp end. However, I'm not quite understanding what to do on the head-unit side. I believe I'm supposed to buy RCA 14 gauge cable to run and then I'm just plugging the RCA directly into the head-unit? Any extra advice on this would be appreciated!

Here is my head unit: System Connection - Kenwood DNX891HD Quick Start Manual [Page 22] - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/696412/Kenwood-Dnx891hd.html?page=22#manual